Autos Audis

Question:

 If I have a battery operated sump pump with a deep cycle marine battery on a float charger and it is not used how long will my battery remain good , or at 90 % life . 10 yrs ? 20 yrs? 30+ yrs ?

Response:

> If I have a battery operated sump pump with a deep cycle marine battery >on a float charger and it is not used how long will my battery remain >good , or at 90 % life . 10 yrs ? 20 yrs? 30+ yrs ?

That is dependent on the battery.  The manufacturer will have an answer. If you do nothing other than what you describe, eventually the electrolyte level will get below the plates; the plates will warp and the battery will die.  That will be true for most lead-acid deep discharge batteries.  Life span would likely be less than a year. If you have something like a Surrette 8CS25P, and you float it at the correct voltage; check the electrolyte level at appropriate intervals; and perform an equalizing charge every six months or when needed, the battery should last at least ten years, and probably quite a bit longer — perhaps double that. –ron

Response:

It depends on the plate chemistry, preventive maintenance and charging voltages.  Please see Section 11 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org for table on  expected battery service life. Kindest regards, BiLL….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If I have a battery operated sump pump with a deep cycle marine battery >on a float charger and it is not used how long will my battery remain >good , or at 90 % life . 10 yrs ? 20 yrs? 30+ yrs ?

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Hi If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on the car ? pat…

Response:

Might help to know if your 1936 Frammis has the discombobulator valve on the rear axle. Or if the tires are whitewall or hard rubber, etc. Of course, if the battery blew up — which can happen — it may all be moot. Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on > the car ? > pat…

Response:

HI Sorry it is a 1990 Grandam Quad 4 the battery still works no blow up the alternator smoked a bit however it was toast to start with. which is why the battery was being replaced to begin with. pat… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Might help to know if your 1936 Frammis has the discombobulator valve on the > rear axle. Or if the tires are whitewall or hard rubber, etc. > Of course, if the battery blew up — which can happen — it may all be moot. > Myron E. Williams > Hi > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on > the car ? > pat…

Response:

The alternator will quite likely take damage. It could also damage devices like the radio and the ECM. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on > the car ? > pat…

Response:

Sorry I don’t know the Quad 4, but in that era the likeliest problem is the alternator or maybe the computer. There may be other modules in the distributor which can fail with reversed poplarity. Don’t make a habit of it! Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > HI > Sorry > it is a 1990 Grandam Quad 4 > the battery still works no blow up > the alternator smoked a bit however it was toast to start with. which is why > the battery was being replaced to begin with. > pat… > Might help to know if your 1936 Frammis has the discombobulator valve on > the > rear axle. Or if the tires are whitewall or hard rubber, etc. > Of course, if the battery blew up — which can happen — it may all be > moot. > Myron E. Williams > > Hi > > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown > on > > the car ? > > pat…

Response:

HI All I just wanted to thank everyone for there input. I also wanted to let everyone know that the only think that blew was the Alternator. thanks pat…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on > the car ? > pat…

Response:

Hi.  First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try to explain things simply. There was transmission work done on it about a month ago and they failed to connect the battery tightly, leading me to think that the battery had gone dead because I couldn’t start the truck at all.  When I took it in to get the battery changed, the mechanic tested it first and said that it was still good.  He tightened the terminals and everything was fine until today. When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window the battery meter would go crazy back and forth.  If I tried to put two windows down and once the batter warning light came on.  When stoped the truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again immediately after, there was no power at all.  After waiting 5 minutes, I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. What should I do?  I konw the first place to start is to clean the corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me.  I know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do. I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like that?  I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use a wire brush to clean it off. So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I can handle it.  Or if you think it’s something other than just terminal corrosion, please feel free to say so.  BTW-the truck is a 1994 Explorer with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. Thanks so much.

Response:

Original batt on a ‘94?    That battery, even if corroded, is due for changing–get a new one–and that way you don’t need to worry about cleaning it for a while.   Now, yes, if you set out to clean a battery, disconnect both the negative and positive terminals, in that order. Then lift the batter out of the car and place it somewhere to clean it but try not to put it on cold cement floor.  Use wire brush to brush off terminal(s), one at a time and be careful not to touch anything metal between the two terminals so there is touching between the two terminals..it will arc/spark and maybe cause an explosion. Then mix a solution of water and baking soda and pour it over the top of each terminal, slowly.  Wipe off entire battery with an old rag and throw the rag away, as it will have some residue of battery acid on it and will deteriorate the rag and anything else it comes into contact with.  When dry, put the battery back in the car…..oh, before hand check the metal holders and wipe/clean it up some…..tighten down the positive cable first and then the negative cable. Good Luck! — Take Care and Have a Good Day. CUL8R, Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi.  First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try > to explain things simply. > When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window the > battery meter would go crazy back and forth.  If I tried to put two > windows down and once the batter warning light came on.  When stoped the > truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again > immediately after, there was no power at all.  After waiting 5 minutes, > I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. > What should I do?  I konw the first place to start is to clean the > corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me. I > know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do . > I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the > sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like > that?  I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use a > wire brush to clean it off. > So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I > can handle it.  Or if you think it’s something other than just terminal > corrosion, please feel free to say so.  BTW-the truck is a 1994 Explorer > with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. > Thanks so much.

Response:

The steps recommended while good solve half of the potential problems.  The battery connectors can become coated with sulfuric acid and corrosion like the battery terminals.  Clean the inside and outside surfaces of the connectors with a battery terminal brush or a stainless steel brush.  Don’t get overly aggessive if the cable uses a lead type clamp as the clamp can only close so far on the post ( this assumes you have a post type battery connection),  Dip the cleaned connector into the baking soda solution. Dipping the connections and a segment of the attached wires in the baking soda solution can neutralize the acid that can be wicked into the strands of the wire.  The neutralized acid/copper solution will be foamy and green. Subsequent dippings are warranted until the green mixture (copper sulphate) stops coming out.  Rinse the area very well with fresh water and allow to dry.  If acid leaked into the battery holder in the pour a mixture of baking soda and water on it to neutralize the acid that can eventually eat away the paint and supporting metal and rinse well.  Prime an repaint the area if warranted.  When reconnecting the clamps on the battery do not put the clamps all the way down so that they touch the face of the battery.  Keep the bottom of the clamp up about 1/8" from the battery.  This will keep future acid leaks from reaching the conector and reduce the likliehood of salts and the like from creating a current path on the surface of the battery case.  (Yes, I know it’s only 12 volts) After you have reconnected the terminals of the battery you can apply a light film of lithium base grease to help keep moisture out of the connection and reduce the chance of a bad connection as well as corrosion.  I hope it helps. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Original batt on a ‘94?    That battery, even if corroded, is due for > changing–get a new one–and that way you don’t need to worry about > cleaning it for a while.   Now, yes, if you set out to clean a battery, > disconnect both the negative and positive terminals, in that order. > Then lift the batter out of the car and place it somewhere to clean it > but try not to put it on cold cement floor.  Use wire brush to brush off > terminal(s), one at a time and be careful not to touch anything metal > between the two terminals so there is touching between the two > terminals..it will arc/spark and maybe cause an explosion. > Then mix a solution of water and baking soda and pour it over the top of > each terminal, slowly.  Wipe off entire battery with an old rag and > throw the rag away, as it will have some residue of battery acid on it > and will deteriorate the rag and anything else it comes into contact > with.  When dry, put the battery back in the car…..oh, before hand > check the metal holders and wipe/clean it up some…..tighten down the > positive cable first and then the negative cable. > Good Luck! > — > Take Care and Have a Good Day. > CUL8R, Mike > Hi.  First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try > to explain things simply. > When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window > the > battery meter would go crazy back and forth.  If I tried to put two > windows down and once the batter warning light came on.  When stoped > the > truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again > immediately after, there was no power at all.  After waiting 5 > minutes, > I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. > What should I do?  I konw the first place to start is to clean the > corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me. > I > know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do > . > I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the > sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like > that?  I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use > a > wire brush to clean it off. > So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I > can handle it.  Or if you think it’s something other than just > terminal > corrosion, please feel free to say so.  BTW-the truck is a 1994 > Explorer > with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. > Thanks so much.

Response:

Thanks to the both of you that replied (and to anyone else that might reply before reading this).  I tried to start it up again and it barely turned over after cranking for about 5 seconds, so I decided to get it checked. Diagnois: dead battery.  They instaled a new one, cleaned up the connectors etc., and everything works fine again. Can anyone recommend a site or book or something that can tell someone with absolutely no car knowledge how to do basic maintenence and repair?  Seems I’ve been having a lot of troubles with my Explorer lately and I don’t like being completely clueless. Thank you again. Mark

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi.  First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try > to explain things simply. > There was transmission work done on it about a month ago and they failed > to connect the battery tightly, leading me to think that the battery had > gone dead because I couldn’t start the truck at all.  When I took it in > to get the battery changed, the mechanic tested it first and said that > it was still good.  He tightened the terminals and everything was fine > until today. > When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window the > battery meter would go crazy back and forth.  If I tried to put two > windows down and once the batter warning light came on.  When stoped the > truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again > immediately after, there was no power at all.  After waiting 5 minutes, > I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. > What should I do?  I konw the first place to start is to clean the > corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me.  I > know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do. > I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the > sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like > that?  I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use a > wire brush to clean it off. > So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I > can handle it.  Or if you think it’s something other than just terminal > corrosion, please feel free to say so.  BTW-the truck is a 1994 Explorer > with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. > Thanks so much.

Put on some gloves and protective goggles. Disconnect both battery terminals, use a stiff brush or soft wire brush to clean the terminals and lead clamps, Protect the cleaned connections with some vaseline. Or, gGo to you nearest autoparts store and buy a battery terminal cleaner, use it and then protect the terminals with  any one of the products the autoparts store will be happy to sell you. You should also  put the battery on charge or have it charged. Battery chargers are relatively inexpensive and a useful things to keep around. Messing with acid is dangerous and you should not have to do it anyway. Hope this helps.

Response:

Don’t forget that the battery cables themselves (usually the positive one) can often be corroded inside the insulation, causing problems like yours. Replacig the bad cable fixes the problem. Also, of course, cleaning the terminals may do the trick. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi.  First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try >to explain things simply. >There was transmission work done on it about a month ago and they failed >to connect the battery tightly, leading me to think that the battery had >gone dead because I couldn’t start the truck at all.  When I took it in >to get the battery changed, the mechanic tested it first and said that >it was still good.  He tightened the terminals and everything was fine >until today. >When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window the >battery meter would go crazy back and forth.  If I tried to put two >windows down and once the batter warning light came on.  When stoped the >truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again >immediately after, there was no power at all.  After waiting 5 minutes, >I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. >What should I do?  I konw the first place to start is to clean the >corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me.  I >know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do. >I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the >sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like >that?  I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use a >wire brush to clean it off. >So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I >can handle it.  Or if you think it’s something other than just terminal >corrosion, please feel free to say so.  BTW-the truck is a 1994 Explorer >with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. >Thanks so much.

Bill

Response:

Hey Mark, Chiltons is a pretty good manual, and haynes is too, they show pictures and stuff, but also, no offense, you might check out "Car repair for Dummies" i bought it for my wife and at least she knows what some things are, and doesnt get gypped for things like Hupcap Gaskets and Muffler bearings (haha) Wes

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I would like to know if after three weeks with my A3 parked in the garage (without moving) the battery could be discharge due to small comsumption of electronic devices of the car. Thanks — Manuel Escolar

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> I would like to know if after three weeks with my A3 parked in > the garage (without moving) the battery could be discharge due > to small comsumption of electronic devices of the car.

This is more of an alt.autos.non-specific <g> enquiry… In theory, yes.  The condition of your battery (initial charge and general health) affects whether it is serious.  For three weeks, I’d be wondering whether to disconnect the battery before laying up the car (although that will lead to other problems, of resetting things, when you reconnect; others will have to advise you there).  Lead-acid cells tend to be damaged by being left discharged for long. BTW, don’t be tempted to leave the battery connected to a trickle charger during the lay-up.  Not safe. — Andrew Stephenson

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Without knowing the details, I would say no. If it was very cold, and your battery was old, then maybe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I would like to know if after three weeks with my A3 parked in the garage > (without moving) the battery could be discharge due to small comsumption of > electronic devices of the car. > Thanks > — > Manuel Escolar

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I have a 2000 Olds Intrigue that sits in the driveway for weeks at a time in the winter, because I’m driving my Audis instead.  Likewise, my Audis tend to sit around a lot in the summer.  I also have an antique Cadillac that sits for long periods of time, though it has dual batteries and I disconnect them both when it goes into storage — so it probably doesn’t really count in this discussion.  I’ve honestly never really kept close track of just how long each of these vehicles sits between being run, but I’d be willing to bet that every one of them has sat for more than three weeks at one time or another. And I’ve never had a problem with any of these cars’ batteries running down while parked.  As long as your electrical system is functioning properly (no shorts or stuck-on seat warmers or interior lights, etc.) and your battery is in good shape, you should be able to let it sit for a good long time without concern of running down the battery.  If your car’s battery won’t last three weeks, I’d be looking into it. Re  The trickle-charger:  Isn’t there such a thing as a "battery maintainer" that’s designed specifically to be left hooked up to Pb-acid batteries for extended periods of time?  I’ve never used one myself, but I’ve heard of them and am would probably use one if a situation required it.  That is, unless there’s some reason that I shouldn’t… – Greg Reed -1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan -1989 Audi 200 TQ Sedan -1990 Audi V8Q -2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue -2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I would like to know if after three weeks with my A3 parked in > the garage (without moving) the battery could be discharge due > to small comsumption of electronic devices of the car. > This is more of an alt.autos.non-specific <g> enquiry… > In theory, yes.  The condition of your battery (initial charge > and general health) affects whether it is serious.  For three > weeks, I’d be wondering whether to disconnect the battery before > laying up the car (although that will lead to other problems, of > resetting things, when you reconnect; others will have to advise > you there).  Lead-acid cells tend to be damaged by being left > discharged for long. > BTW, don’t be tempted to leave the battery connected to a trickle > charger during the lay-up.  Not safe. > — > Andrew Stephenson

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> [...]  As long as your electrical system is functioning properly (no > shorts or stuck-on seat warmers or interior lights, etc.) and your battery > is in good shape, you should be able to let it sit for a good long time > without concern of running down the battery.  If your car’s battery won’t > last three weeks, I’d be looking into it.

That’s a reasonable list of provisos.  How many of us can live up to them?  ;-) When this came up last, I did back-of-envelope calculations, as follows (quotes from my 22nov2001 post to this NG):   [...] For comparison (the only figure I have memorised), the   Volvo 440’s factory alarm system draws a stated 27 mA when set.   I have twice left such a vehicle parked for a month.  First   time, the battery was good and could start the car afterwards   — just.  Second time, the battery was crocked and afterwards   could barely power the courtesy light.  It had to be recharged   before starting was possible.  Soon after, it had to be   replaced, as the sustained discharge state had finished it.   [...] 27 mA for 21 days is a draw-down of 0.027*24*21 = 13.608 Amp-hrs. On the face of it, this is marginal cause for concern.  OTOH:   [...] a real-life battery rarely starts a parking period   topped-up, especially if it is old and winter’s dark, cold days   have been (a) diverting charging current then (b) impairing the   battery’s ability to hold a charge.  To that, add what starting   the car then tries to pull out… Luck is going to be a big part of it. > Re  The trickle-charger:  Isn’t there such a thing as a "battery maintainer" > that’s designed specifically to be left hooked up to Pb-acid batteries for > extended periods of time?  I’ve never used one myself, but I’ve heard of > them and am would probably use one if a situation required it.  That is, > unless there’s some reason that I shouldn’t…

I’m just wary of leaving mains-powered (er, that would be "line-" in the US, yes?) electrical stuff running if I am away for weeks at a time, especially if it feeds a potentially damp area exposed to physically active wildlife.  Call me cautious.  Also, so much after-market kit offered in UK motor accessory shops is of cheapo design and construction, begging to be allowed to start a fire in your car/garage/house and entertain the neighbours. — Andrew Stephenson

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Question:

<snip> > Audi is hardly alone with cam belts in their engine line-up, I bet most > mainstream engines are belt driven these days. > Belts are usually quieter than chain drives, and are usually lighter than > chain drives. Gear drives are difficult to eliminate excess lash (something > tensioners do for chains and belts) and tend to whine.

I guess my personal preference for bullet-proof dependability over aesthetics (and even at a modest weight expense) are trumped by others’ preferences (for reduced weight and noise) and for other design considerations. And I honestly hadn’t thought about lash in a gear-driven setup.  Actually, the only gear-driven cams I’ve ever seen were on older GM 8-cylinder engines.  (I’m not even sure whether they were aftermarket-only or available right from the factory.)  They appeared to be indestructible, which is why that design sticks in my head.  Perhaps sloppy timing (as would result from excessive gear lash) isn’t as detrimental to these older engines as it would be to modern ones. – Greg — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ sedan 1990 Audi V8Q 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They went to a chain because it was narrower than the belt. With a belt >the > engine didn’t fit in. > > Does the 4.2 V8 have a cam belt, or a chain?  I saw some pictures with a > > chain, so I guess its the latter, but I am not totally sure. > > Thanks, > > Chip. >I thought that relocating the cam drive to the rear of the engine was the >space-saving feature.  The switch to a chain from a belt was because the new >rearward location made regular changes of a belt impractical. >This might be a dumb question, but why doesn’t Audi do away with timing >belts on *every* engine?  FTM, why don’t *all* auto manufacturers do away >with them?  A chain drive — or even better yet, direct gear drive — for >the camshaft(s) is much more reliable than a belt.  No more worrying about >whether Audi’s service recommendations are accurate; no more >multi-thousand-dollar engine repair bills if you ignorantly believe Audi’s >exaggerated timing belt longevity claims.  No longer will essentially >complete and immediate obliteration of the engine be the collateral result >of a seized water pump or tension roller. >Do chain- or gear-driven camshafts generate too much noise?  Do they impose >additional drag on the engine?  Are they that much more expensive than >belts?  Or are most automakers simply unconcerned about the long-term >reliability of their cars?  A cynic would claim that the automakers >intentionally build their cars to fail shortly after the warranty period, >because vehicle longevity reduces new car sales.  Personally, I’ve never >accepted this claim.  But sometimes the evidence does seem to point in that >direction.  There must be a reason why belts continue to be used to drive >engines’ camshafts (other than Audi’s secret desire for all their cars to >die 4 years after they’re built).  Can anyone offer some insight as to what >this reason might be? >- Greg

Audi is hardly alone with cam belts in their engine line-up, I bet most mainstream engines are belt driven these days. Belts are usually quieter than chain drives, and are usually lighter than chain drives. Gear drives are difficult to eliminate excess lash (something tensioners do for chains and belts) and tend to whine.

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They went to a chain because it was narrower than the belt. With a belt the engine didn’t fit in.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does the 4.2 V8 have a cam belt, or a chain?  I saw some pictures with a > chain, so I guess its the latter, but I am not totally sure. > Thanks, > Chip.

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> They went to a chain because it was narrower than the belt. With a belt the > engine didn’t fit in. > Does the 4.2 V8 have a cam belt, or a chain?  I saw some pictures with a > chain, so I guess its the latter, but I am not totally sure. > Thanks, > Chip.

I thought that relocating the cam drive to the rear of the engine was the space-saving feature.  The switch to a chain from a belt was because the new rearward location made regular changes of a belt impractical. This might be a dumb question, but why doesn’t Audi do away with timing belts on *every* engine?  FTM, why don’t *all* auto manufacturers do away with them?  A chain drive — or even better yet, direct gear drive — for the camshaft(s) is much more reliable than a belt.  No more worrying about whether Audi’s service recommendations are accurate; no more multi-thousand-dollar engine repair bills if you ignorantly believe Audi’s exaggerated timing belt longevity claims.  No longer will essentially complete and immediate obliteration of the engine be the collateral result of a seized water pump or tension roller. Do chain- or gear-driven camshafts generate too much noise?  Do they impose additional drag on the engine?  Are they that much more expensive than belts?  Or are most automakers simply unconcerned about the long-term reliability of their cars?  A cynic would claim that the automakers intentionally build their cars to fail shortly after the warranty period, because vehicle longevity reduces new car sales.  Personally, I’ve never accepted this claim.  But sometimes the evidence does seem to point in that direction.  There must be a reason why belts continue to be used to drive engines’ camshafts (other than Audi’s secret desire for all their cars to die 4 years after they’re built).  Can anyone offer some insight as to what this reason might be? – Greg — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ sedan 1990 Audi V8Q 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD

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Does the 4.2 V8 have a cam belt, or a chain?  I saw some pictures with a chain, so I guess its the latter, but I am not totally sure. Thanks, Chip.

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>Does the 4.2 V8 have a cam belt, or a chain?  I saw some pictures with a >chain, so I guess its the latter, but I am not totally sure.

It uses a chain – which is a damned good thing considering it is at the *back* of the engine

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> Does the 4.2 V8 have a cam belt, or a chain?  I saw some pictures with a > chain, so I guess its the latter, but I am not totally sure.

The S4 and Allroad V8s have a chain at the back of the block.  The other V8s have a belt at the front. —

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Question:

Just little remark : This car has 4cyl i believe! Grtz Benoit   Hi Audi folk. I dont see any  correspondence on LPgas convertion. Has anybody got some ideas as it seems to me a good proposition the way   the price of petrol is going. JohnC

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>Hi Audi folk. I dont see any  correspondence on LPgas convertion. Has anybody got some > ideas as it seems to me a good proposition the way the price of petrol is

going. JohnC This question reminds me of something I’ve wondered about before.  Perhaps someone here can lend some insight: Here in the US, sales of fuel for vehicles includes a road tax that is supposed to be used for road maintenance.  (Whether the money actually gets used for that purpose is another discussion entirely.)  All gasoline sales include this tax (to the best of my knowledge — even if you plan to use it in a lawn mower or a boat) and all diesel fuel sales that are intended for use in road vehicles are taxed as well.  (Diesel fuel for off-road use only — like heating furnace fuel or fuel used by farmers in their tractors — is exempt from this road tax and is specially dyed to indicate such.  Getting caught with inappropriately dyed diesel fuel in your road-going vehicle can result in substantial fines.)  The intent seems to be the taxation all fuel used by road-going vehicles — which would makes sense, given the aforementioned ostensible use of the money collected. Now the question:  Are propane-converted vehicles a loophole in this taxation program?  Or are the owners of such propane-fueled vehicles required to obtain their fuel from someplace that imposes the appropriate road tax? This question would seem to be even more pertinent in the UK and other European countries where vehicle fuels — especially gasoline (petrol) — are taxed far more than here in the US. – Greg — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ sedan 1990 Audi V8Q 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s)

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Hi Audi folk. I dont see any  correspondence on LPgas convertion. Has anybody got some ideas as it seems to me a good proposition the way the price of petrol is going. JohnC

Response:

Question:

Thanks for your input Robert. I’ll keep you posted. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > —-8<—cut >On getting back and approaching my car my spine chilled when I could see my >rear bumper was hanging out loose and as I got nearer I could see some >damage to the rear left door – the bodywork had got cut against the >protection bars on the door, rear left fender and tyre torn, rim scratched – >although only at its edge – and bumper holder torn out. > —-8<—cut > No need to mention I called the police and >then he really owned up to what he’d done although he said he didn’t seem to >have realised at the time. How can’t a professional truck driver possibly >realise he’s drawing a car sideways for two meters. My car had been on the >street and was left with all four wheels on the pavement. Would you really >believe his story? >I just wanted to ask you guys if you’ve ever been in some sort of similar >situation or whether people have got better social conscience. > —-8<—- > Sorry to hear about this. I have had similar. I was trying to get in > front of a Volvo FH12 (470 hp) semi, on the ramp onto a motorway. The > driver managed to tear up the whole side of my car (not the Audi > luckily, just a Saab) and I had to flag him down at the next lights to > get him to understand what had happened. > The insurance companies decided on a 50-50 split so both parties > withdrew the claims (besides, my car was so old, I was going to junk it > anyway). After we’d settled, the lorry driver said that he really didn’t > hear the scraping. Given the loudness of a big diesel engine and the > weight/momentum of some of these semis I’d guess a driver would only > notice once he was half way through the car being mangled, if at all. > That said, however, any driver who can’t control his rig and keep it > from mashing cars should pay dearly for his ineptitude. This kind of > thing gives professional lorry drivers a bad reputation, which is a > shame because most of them are OK people just as we others are. > But I hope this asshole pays you properly to compensate for your damages > and misery. > /Robert > Gothenburg

Response:

Sorry, I attached the pics to my message but apparently one cannot post pics in this NG. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> See the pics and judge for yourselves. > Where? > — > http://www.munted.org.uk – updated 2003/07/01 > Telephone: A clever device by which two people in different places can > mutually admire each other’s total inability to say anything coherent

Response:

> Guess what: My Phatbox arrived today, when my car’s at the bodywork’s! So > much for timing. I really can’t wait to get this thing going.

Ah well.  Plenty of time to start building up a collection of music on the DMS cartridge! —

Response:

If you haven’t got anyplace to post them on the web, you can e-mail them to me if you want.  I’ll put ‘em up on my web site and post a link here. – Greg — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ sedan 1990 Audi V8Q (for sale: http://www.dataspire.com/v8q) 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sorry, I attached the pics to my message but apparently one cannot post pics > in this NG. > Just as well, you’d have taken a lot of shit. Just put it on a website > somewhere and post the URL. > — > http://www.munted.org.uk – updated 2003/07/01 > Telephone: A clever device by which two people in different places can > mutually admire each other’s total inability to say anything coherent

Response:

Dear Peter and all, Guess what: My Phatbox arrived today, when my car’s at the bodywork’s! So much for timing. I really can’t wait to get this thing going. Regards, Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey! I see you seem to have got a hold of the Phat Box System. I have a Bose > based Concert System in the Cab’ Any advice as to how to get it and fitting > would be appreciated. > I have recently fitted a PhatBox in my RS6. > Purchased from Clairs auto parts (http://www.clairparts.com/) – $809.95 > including shipping by UPS, plus

Question:

> Have a used 2001 2.7T with Nokian tires. We are not happy with the > tires as they are very noisy. Car also starts to vibrate at 60MPH and > is there through 70MPH. Looking for suggestions for new tires. Would > prefer smooth quiet ride to mega performance. > Marc

Mine came with Perelli S9 or somethign like that.  It was a good tire, but crappy in the wet.  Replaced them with Continental ContiExtremeContact (tirerack.com)  Much quieter and great grip in wet and snow.  Cheers

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have a used 2001 2.7T with Nokian tires. We are not happy with the > tires as they are very noisy. Car also starts to vibrate at 60MPH and > is there through 70MPH. Looking for suggestions for new tires. Would > prefer smooth quiet ride to mega performance. > Marc > Mine came with Perelli S9 or somethign like that.  It was a good tire, but > crappy in the wet.  Replaced them with Continental ContiExtremeContact > (tirerack.com)  Much quieter and great grip in wet and snow.  Cheers

I’m using 225/40R18 Yokohama Advan S.4. on a 3.2L A3.  They’re sloppier than the stock Pirelli P-Zero Rosso but they still grip well wet and dry.  The S.4. has the advantage of being a quiet, comfortable, all-season tire with a much better tread life.  The downside is that the S.4. are expensive. One thing to watch out for is the load rating.  Audis are grossly overweight cars.  Upgraded rims make it even harder to find tires with a high enough load rating. — I don’t read Google’s spam.  Reply with another service.

Response:

I also recommend the TireRack for their reviews.  I recently purchased a set of Dunlop SP Sport 5000’s for my Oldsmobile after reviewing several similar tires at the TireRack.  They only have about 5k miles on them so far, so I can’t really comment on tread life, but they’re very quiet (much quieter than the stock Goodyear Eagles they replaced) and handle at least as well as the Goodyears.  They’re moderately sporty all-season radials, and came with a bi-directional tread pattern in my 215-60/16 tire size.  IIRC, the lower sidewall ratios (55 series and lower) of this tire have a uni-directional tread pattern, and might not be as quiet as mine. – Greg — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ sedan 1990 Audi V8Q (for sale: http://www.dataspire.com/v8q) 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have a used 2001 2.7T with Nokian tires. We are not happy with the tires as > they are very noisy. Car also starts to vibrate at 60MPH and is there > through 70MPH. Looking for suggestions for new tires. Would prefer smooth > quiet ride to mega performance. > Marc

Response:

Have a used 2001 2.7T with Nokian tires. We are not happy with the tires as they are very noisy. Car also starts to vibrate at 60MPH and is there through 70MPH. Looking for suggestions for new tires. Would prefer smooth quiet ride to mega performance. Marc

Response:

Vibration at that speed is likely caused by tire imbalance or tire out-of-round. Quiet tires? Michelin MXV4 Energy. — Stephen Clark 89 Audi 100 Houston, Texas USA See my Audi in the Registry at www.audiworld.com! —-== Posted via Newsfeed.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups —= 19 East/West-Coast Specialized Servers – Total Privacy via Encryption =—

Response:

> Have a used 2001 2.7T with Nokian tires. We are not happy with the tires as > they are very noisy. Car also starts to vibrate at 60MPH and is there > through 70MPH. Looking for suggestions for new tires. Would prefer smooth > quiet ride to mega performance.

Are you looking for all-season tires or summer tires? The Nokians you have are probably winter tires.  Nokian was never an OEM tire for Audi, and it’s possible that the previous owner bought them for winter/snow purposes (that’s what Nokian tires are famous for).  If that’s the case, that may explain why they’re noisy if you run them through the summer. Anyway, if you’re looking for quiet all-seasons (I’ll assume the stock 215/55/16 size), I’d consider Dunlop SP A2 which is a great all-around performer.  Alternatively Continental ContiTouringContactCH95 or ContiExtremeContact. If quiet summer tires, then Dunlop SP9000. I would not recommend the Michelin MXV4 which Stephen mentioned.  They were the OEM tires on my ‘00 Accord and I hated them.  They may be quiet, but that’s about it.  They’re soft as jello (read: poor steering response), dry/wet grip is marginal, snow traction is poor.  All that for nearly twice the price its competitors, like Dunlop SP A2 which does everything better. And I agree with Stephen, the vibration you’re experiencing is probably a result of poor tire balancing job.  Next time you go to have your tires mounted and balanced, go to a place that has a Hunter GSP97000 high-speed balancing machine and a technician that knows how to use it. www.gsp9700.com Cheers, Pete

Response:

I had Michelin MXV4 that did not last long and were on the noisy side. I replaced them with Toyo Proxes TPT  and they are very quiet.  Big difference.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have a used 2001 2.7T with Nokian tires. We are not happy with the tires as > they are very noisy. Car also starts to vibrate at 60MPH and is there > through 70MPH. Looking for suggestions for new tires. Would prefer smooth > quiet ride to mega performance. > Marc

Response:

look at www.tirerack.com for detailed tire recommendations, analyses and ratings

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have a used 2001 2.7T with Nokian tires. We are not happy with the tires as > they are very noisy. Car also starts to vibrate at 60MPH and is there > through 70MPH. Looking for suggestions for new tires. Would prefer smooth > quiet ride to mega performance. > Marc

Response:

> Have a used 2001 2.7T with Nokian tires. We are not happy with the tires as > they are very noisy. Car also starts to vibrate at 60MPH and is there > through 70MPH. Looking for suggestions for new tires. Would prefer smooth > quiet ride to mega performance. > Marc

A couple of things come to mind: Your tires are probably improperly mounted and/or balanced If you want all-season tires, and you probably do since you have Nokians now, then I concur with the other Dunlop SP Sport A2 recommendation. We’ve got a set of these on one of our cars, and they are quiet and give the car (Civic) a real sense of sure-footedness. They are not expensive, which is nice.

Response:

Question:

True Xenon bulbs are high-discharge type lamps. They are not "drop-in replacements" for standard incandescent halogen bulbs. If someone sold you "Xenon" bulbs saying you just plug them in place of your standard OEM lamps, you’ve been screwed paying for regular Halogen bulbs represented as Xenon ones. Each are two very different technology.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I recently got a ‘99 A6 and just bought a set of H7 xenon super blue > headlight bulbs to replace the regular ones.  Upon looking in the handbook > for the fitting procedure, it says that if the bulbs are the xenon type, > then I need to contact an Audi dealer to fit them.  Why???  It looks a > pretty straightforward job.  Why can’t I do it myself?  Is it rocket > science? > Ross > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Thanks to all who replied.  I didn’t know any of that stuff – thanks for putting me straight.  Yes, the bulbs I have – which weren’t very expensive – say "similar to high intensity discharge lighting", and the bulb glass has a blue tint. So their claim that these are the "best choice for safety and comfortable driving in bad conditions, fog, rain, snow etc." is rubbish? — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Thanks to all who replied.  I didn’t know any of that stuff – thanks for > putting me straight.  Yes, the bulbs I have – which weren’t very > expensive – > say "similar to high intensity discharge lighting", and the bulb glass > has a > blue tint. > So their claim that these are the "best choice for safety and comfortable > driving in bad conditions, fog, rain, snow etc." is rubbish? > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Depends on how you define rubbish, it’s pretty good marketing. Nowt’ll help you see further in snow

Response:

> Thanks to all who replied.  I didn’t know any of that stuff – thanks for > putting me straight.  Yes, the bulbs I have – which weren’t very expensive – > say "similar to high intensity discharge lighting", and the bulb glass has a > blue tint. > So their claim that these are the "best choice for safety and comfortable > driving in bad conditions, fog, rain, snow etc." is rubbish?

May be the $10 ones you see on e-Bay may not be as advertised. I have ordered a set of PIAA Xtreme White direct replacement bulbs and I waiting to see if there is an improvement, and believe these were not cheap – $60 for a pair of lo beams bulbs – 9006 on my car. PIAA claim they are equivalent to a 100W bulb. We’ll see (and see better!) Tony Ottawa

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks to all who replied.  I didn’t know any of that stuff – thanks for > putting me straight.  Yes, the bulbs I have – which weren’t very > expensive – > say "similar to high intensity discharge lighting", and the bulb glass > has a > blue tint. > So their claim that these are the "best choice for safety and comfortable > driving in bad conditions, fog, rain, snow etc." is rubbish? > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Depends on how you define rubbish, it’s pretty good marketing. Nowt’ll help > you see further in snow

Actually, because the blue light wavelengths are the shortest, they scatter in rain / fog / snow more easily.  Therefore, by filtering out the yellow wavelengths (which are longer, and therefore scatter less, and which is how halogen bulbs achieve their "blue" appearance), your "superwhite" bulbs will actually give you *less* visibility in rain / fog / snow than ordinary white halogen bulbs.  Real HID’s give quite a bit of backscatter, but at least they still throw out a decent amount of yellow light.  The reason they *look* blue is because they generate more of the shorter (blue) wavelengths than do halogens. Go to http://lighting.mbz.org for more information about vehicle lighting. After reading this site, I decided not to go with HID lights, should I ever find myself confronted with the option.  Regular, old halogens — in properly aimed and well-designed headlight enclosures, and running with adequate wiring — will do me just fine. Now aren’t you sorry you asked?  Nothing can ever just be simple, can it? – Greg — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ 1990 Audi V8Q 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s)

Response:

Hi, I fitted new H7 bulbs to my A6 earlier this year – they are essentially normal bulbs with a little xenon gas – which allows the filament to burn hotter and hence produce a whiter brighter light. They worked out at about

Question:

>Thanks for the correction.  I thought that the 4k was basically just a >non-turboed 5k (and the 100 a non-turboed 200).  If I’m wrong about the 4k, >does that mean I’m also wrong about the 100?

No, the 100/200 distinction is correct (in the U.S., for those years they made the 200). The 4K/5K (80&90)/(100&200) and A4/A6 distinctions are of chassis and body size and style. — M/S ZKO3-3/U14 Nashua, NH    03062-2698                (603)-884-1294

Response:

> I have one myself, and I wish that I’d learned > about these guys *before* I bought.  The V8Q is, indeed, technically a type > 44 car (like the 4000/5000 and the 100/200),

While you are correct about the other three, the 4000 is *not* a Type 44. — C.R. Krieger (Been there; had those)

Response:

Thanks for the correction.  I thought that the 4k was basically just a non-turboed 5k (and the 100 a non-turboed 200).  If I’m wrong about the 4k, does that mean I’m also wrong about the 100? BTW:  Has there ever been an Audi model you *didn’t* own, C.R.? – Greg Reed — 1976 Cadillac 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ sedan 1990 Audi V8Q 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have one myself, and I wish that I’d learned > about these guys *before* I bought.  The V8Q is, indeed, technically a type > 44 car (like the 4000/5000 and the 100/200), > While you are correct about the other three, the 4000 is *not* a Type 44. > — > C.R. Krieger > (Been there; had those)

Response:

I know nothing about Audi V8s – I’ve only experience with various 5 cyl engines, but I assume you have checked for a blown cylinder head gasket? The classic white mush in the engine oil or oily scum in the coolant water? You’ve obviously got quite a leak somewhere if you can only get a few miles before you run out of coolant. Does it definitely run low on coolant or is it over heating? If it is "just" overheating it could be things like a blocked radiator core, a failed water pump or I guess just possibly a failed otter (sp) switch (the thermostatic switch that operates the electric rad fan. I’d be surprised if it was this last one because I’ve run for a few months with a failed switch and it is only in extremes that you notice the fan isn’t running. Just some thoughts… There is also a very active (and well informed) UK Audi owners group at: http://www.audifans.net/. There is a section for the v8, but I don’t know how active it is…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It sounds like a good deal and a fun car. I am a type 44 person so not the best > to answer your questions but a few thoughts. > Parts for the V8 are more tough to find but there are a number of aftermarket > and online sites that should be able to source them. > The timing belt should be changed right away. This is an interference engine so > you don’t even want to think about what would happen if it broke. > If the water pump is leaking – Change the timing belt. The WP can take out the > timing belt if it breaks. > You may want to check further at www.audiworld.com to get more informed > thoughts. > Tony > ‘91 100Q 5spd > Hey everyone, >     I’m new to this news group, as I am to the Audi world. My uncle has an > 1993 Audi V8 Quattro that he will sell me for a steal. As I would like to > have another car, I love the Audi, and it’s a deal, I think I’m going to > grab it. >     He is the original owner, and 2 years ago bought a 2003. The reasons for > the new Audi were that a) it has a coolant leak somewhere, and b) he had the > car for 8 years . As I am very close to him and his family, I am 100% sure > that this is the truth. Only other problems are the hook hydraulic arm is > going (the hood will stay up for 10-15 minuets, then start to fall — no > biggie), the back drivers-side window is free moving (I guess it came off > the motor arm. It does stay up, again — easily fixable.) >     It’s got just over 100,000 miles, never any major problems or accidents. > He was told that at (I think this is correct) 130,000 miles you need to > change the timing belt. So this is something that I will give a high > priority as it has been sitting for almost 2 years and I assume is more > brittle that one might like. >     I’ve been looking locally for repair manuals, but as you might expect no > luck. I’m going to get one online to see what I’m dealing with. I could hack > through it, but the books generally help you out with finding the easiest > way to do whatever you need to do. >     Parts are probably only available through the dealers, and expensive I’m > sure. But that’s ok, it’s an Audi >     My questions to you guys are as follows: >     1) As for the coolant leak (which he said I can only probably go 2-3 > miles before it would be too low on coolant) could be (in my head): >             a) Leaky upper or lower hose. >             b) Leaky water pump >             c) Leaky radiator(/heater core?) >         Now I can see the Upper hose, but the lower is hard to see beyond > the big plenum on top of the engine. What would be the easiest way to get at > the lower hose? >     2) What are the common issues with this model? Things that commonly > break. >     3) Where might be a good place to get replacement parts locally (Rhode > Island) or online aside from dealers? >     4) Hayes or Chilton’s repair manual? Or is another better for Audis? > That’s all that comes to mind. I’m going to go there later today, put some > coolant in it, run it for a bit and see how bad it is. I have another uncle > with a very nice 4 port garage about 1 mile away from that uncle, and I plan > to try to get it there to fully check it out. > Thanks for any info, > Joe

Response:

I have a 1986 5000TQ with 394k km on the clock, still  live and kicking. These cars last forever.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey everyone, >     I’m new to this news group, as I am to the Audi world. My uncle has an > 1993 Audi V8 Quattro that he will sell me for a steal. As I would like to > have another car, I love the Audi, and it’s a deal, I think I’m going to > grab it. >     He is the original owner, and 2 years ago bought a 2003. The reasons for > the new Audi were that a) it has a coolant leak somewhere, and b) he had the > car for 8 years . As I am very close to him and his family, I am 100% sure > that this is the truth. Only other problems are the hook hydraulic arm is > going (the hood will stay up for 10-15 minuets, then start to fall — no > biggie), the back drivers-side window is free moving (I guess it came off > the motor arm. It does stay up, again — easily fixable.) >     It’s got just over 100,000 miles, never any major problems or accidents. > He was told that at (I think this is correct) 130,000 miles you need to > change the timing belt. So this is something that I will give a high > priority as it has been sitting for almost 2 years and I assume is more > brittle that one might like. >     I’ve been looking locally for repair manuals, but as you might expect no > luck. I’m going to get one online to see what I’m dealing with. I could hack > through it, but the books generally help you out with finding the easiest > way to do whatever you need to do. >     Parts are probably only available through the dealers, and expensive I’m > sure. But that’s ok, it’s an Audi >     My questions to you guys are as follows: >     1) As for the coolant leak (which he said I can only probably go 2-3 > miles before it would be too low on coolant) could be (in my head): >             a) Leaky upper or lower hose. >             b) Leaky water pump >             c) Leaky radiator(/heater core?) >         Now I can see the Upper hose, but the lower is hard to see beyond > the big plenum on top of the engine. What would be the easiest way to get at > the lower hose? >     2) What are the common issues with this model? Things that commonly > break. >     3) Where might be a good place to get replacement parts locally (Rhode > Island) or online aside from dealers? >     4) Hayes or Chilton’s repair manual? Or is another better for Audis? > That’s all that comes to mind. I’m going to go there later today, put some > coolant in it, run it for a bit and see how bad it is. I have another uncle > with a very nice 4 port garage about 1 mile away from that uncle, and I plan > to try to get it there to fully check it out. > Thanks for any info, > Joe

Response:

Visit http://www.audiconnection.com.  They’re a great source of both parts and information about V8Q’s.  I have one myself, and I wish that I’d learned about these guys *before* I bought.  The V8Q is, indeed, technically a type 44 car (like the 4000/5000 and the 100/200), but is a bastard child.  There were only something like 3800 of these cars imported to the US from 1990 through 1994, and nearly the entire car is comprised of parts that only fit on the V8Q.  Additionally, mechanics who are knowledgeable about the car and willing to work on anything more serious than a brake job can be hard to come by.  Of course, there’s always the dealer, but if you can afford dealer maintenance on a V8Q you can probably afford a new Audi anyway.  (Mine’s for sale because I can’t afford to maintain it.  I’m hoping to acquire another some day — probably from the guys at Audi Connection.)  On the up side, your prospective ‘93 V8Q has the larger 4.2L engine, which is rated for something like 40 HP more than my V8’s 3.6L engine. I saw a couple of valves that came out of a V8Q that broke its timing belt. It wasn’t pretty.  You’ll want to get that changed immediately.  It’s normally advised every 60k miles, but if the car’s been sitting for a long time (or has a lot of low-speed city miles on it), an early change might be prudent.  It’s (relatively) cheap insurance against a very expensive failure. I’m not advising against acquiring the car — I love mine to a fault — I just want you to have a good idea of what you’re getting. – Greg — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ sedan 1990 Audi V8Q 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey everyone, >     I’m new to this news group, as I am to the Audi world. My uncle has an > 1993 Audi V8 Quattro that he will sell me for a steal. As I would like to > have another car, I love the Audi, and it’s a deal, I think I’m going to > grab it. >     He is the original owner, and 2 years ago bought a 2003. The reasons for > the new Audi were that a) it has a coolant leak somewhere, and b) he had the > car for 8 years . As I am very close to him and his family, I am 100% sure > that this is the truth. Only other problems are the hook hydraulic arm is > going (the hood will stay up for 10-15 minuets, then start to fall — no > biggie), the back drivers-side window is free moving (I guess it came off > the motor arm. It does stay up, again — easily fixable.) >     It’s got just over 100,000 miles, never any major problems or accidents. > He was told that at (I think this is correct) 130,000 miles you need to > change the timing belt. So this is something that I will give a high > priority as it has been sitting for almost 2 years and I assume is more > brittle that one might like. >     I’ve been looking locally for repair manuals, but as you might expect no > luck. I’m going to get one online to see what I’m dealing with. I could hack > through it, but the books generally help you out with finding the easiest > way to do whatever you need to do. >     Parts are probably only available through the dealers, and expensive I’m > sure. But that’s ok, it’s an Audi >     My questions to you guys are as follows: >     1) As for the coolant leak (which he said I can only probably go 2-3 > miles before it would be too low on coolant) could be (in my head): >             a) Leaky upper or lower hose. >             b) Leaky water pump >             c) Leaky radiator(/heater core?) >         Now I can see the Upper hose, but the lower is hard to see beyond > the big plenum on top of the engine. What would be the easiest way to get at > the lower hose? >     2) What are the common issues with this model? Things that commonly > break. >     3) Where might be a good place to get replacement parts locally (Rhode > Island) or online aside from dealers? >     4) Hayes or Chilton’s repair manual? Or is another better for Audis? > That’s all that comes to mind. I’m going to go there later today, put some > coolant in it, run it for a bit and see how bad it is. I have another uncle > with a very nice 4 port garage about 1 mile away from that uncle, and I plan > to try to get it there to fully check it out. > Thanks for any info, > Joe

Response:

It sounds like a good deal and a fun car. I am a type 44 person so not the best to answer your questions but a few thoughts. Parts for the V8 are more tough to find but there are a number of aftermarket and online sites that should be able to source them. The timing belt should be changed right away. This is an interference engine so you don’t even want to think about what would happen if it broke. If the water pump is leaking – Change the timing belt. The WP can take out the timing belt if it breaks. You may want to check further at www.audiworld.com to get more informed thoughts. Tony ‘91 100Q 5spd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hey everyone, >     I’m new to this news group, as I am to the Audi world. My uncle has an > 1993 Audi V8 Quattro that he will sell me for a steal. As I would like to > have another car, I love the Audi, and it’s a deal, I think I’m going to > grab it. >     He is the original owner, and 2 years ago bought a 2003. The reasons for > the new Audi were that a) it has a coolant leak somewhere, and b) he had the > car for 8 years . As I am very close to him and his family, I am 100% sure > that this is the truth. Only other problems are the hook hydraulic arm is > going (the hood will stay up for 10-15 minuets, then start to fall — no > biggie), the back drivers-side window is free moving (I guess it came off > the motor arm. It does stay up, again — easily fixable.) >     It’s got just over 100,000 miles, never any major problems or accidents. > He was told that at (I think this is correct) 130,000 miles you need to > change the timing belt. So this is something that I will give a high > priority as it has been sitting for almost 2 years and I assume is more > brittle that one might like. >     I’ve been looking locally for repair manuals, but as you might expect no > luck. I’m going to get one online to see what I’m dealing with. I could hack > through it, but the books generally help you out with finding the easiest > way to do whatever you need to do. >     Parts are probably only available through the dealers, and expensive I’m > sure. But that’s ok, it’s an Audi >     My questions to you guys are as follows: >     1) As for the coolant leak (which he said I can only probably go 2-3 > miles before it would be too low on coolant) could be (in my head): >             a) Leaky upper or lower hose. >             b) Leaky water pump >             c) Leaky radiator(/heater core?) >         Now I can see the Upper hose, but the lower is hard to see beyond > the big plenum on top of the engine. What would be the easiest way to get at > the lower hose? >     2) What are the common issues with this model? Things that commonly > break. >     3) Where might be a good place to get replacement parts locally (Rhode > Island) or online aside from dealers? >     4) Hayes or Chilton’s repair manual? Or is another better for Audis? > That’s all that comes to mind. I’m going to go there later today, put some > coolant in it, run it for a bit and see how bad it is. I have another uncle > with a very nice 4 port garage about 1 mile away from that uncle, and I plan > to try to get it there to fully check it out. > Thanks for any info, > Joe

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hey everyone, >     I’m new to this news group, as I am to the Audi world. My uncle has an > 1993 Audi V8 Quattro that he will sell me for a steal. As I would like to > have another car, I love the Audi, and it’s a deal, I think I’m going to > grab it. >     He is the original owner, and 2 years ago bought a 2003. The reasons >     for > the new Audi were that a) it has a coolant leak somewhere, and b) he had > the car for 8 years . As I am very close to him and his family, I am > 100% sure that this is the truth. Only other problems are the hook > hydraulic arm is going (the hood will stay up for 10-15 minuets, then > start to fall — no biggie), the back drivers-side window is free moving > (I guess it came off the motor arm. It does stay up, again — easily > fixable.) >     It’s got just over 100,000 miles, never any major problems or >     accidents. > He was told that at (I think this is correct) 130,000 miles you need to > change the timing belt. So this is something that I will give a high > priority as it has been sitting for almost 2 years and I assume is more > brittle that one might like.

The factory specified interval for timing belts on the V8 was 90k miles originally but most owners change it withing 60k miles. I think Audi shortened the interval sometime in the mid 90s. >     I’ve been looking locally for repair manuals, but as you might expect >     no > luck. I’m going to get one online to see what I’m dealing with. I could > hack through it, but the books generally help you out with finding the > easiest way to do whatever you need to do.

Bentley sells the shop manual for V8 in CDrom format. I think it might be in $100 range and you can order it on line. >     Parts are probably only available through the dealers, and expensive >     I’m > sure. But that’s ok, it’s an Audi

There are a number of non audi parts dealers in the states that carry V8 parts. I think the only time you will have to go back to the dealer is for body parts, but even there you can go to a bone yard. Two good places are Force 5 Automotive in Massechusetts and AudiConnection in Virginia. >     My questions to you guys are as follows: >     1) As for the coolant leak (which he said I can only probably go 2-3 > miles before it would be too low on coolant) could be (in my head): >             a) Leaky upper or lower hose. >             b) Leaky water pump >             c) Leaky radiator(/heater core?) >         Now I can see the Upper hose, but the lower is hard to see beyond > the big plenum on top of the engine. What would be the easiest way to get > at the lower hose?

Take the belly pan off and get underneath the car to see where it’s coming from. >     2) What are the common issues with this model? Things that commonly > break. >     3) Where might be a good place to get replacement parts locally (Rhode > Island) or online aside from dealers? >     4) Hayes or Chilton’s repair manual? Or is another better for Audis?

At your mileage the timing belt is the main concern. After that probably the distributors, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, crankcase ventilation hoses, transmission oil level, valve seals and guides, main crank shaft oil seals, auto transmission oil level, and power brake accumulator. There are a bunch of other items but they are pretty much the regular type 44 problems. One very good place to look for information on the V8s is the mailing list on www.audifans.com . This is an active list and has a couple of hundred V8 owners subscribed to it. If you search through the list archives you should find plenty of information for newbie V8 owners. George …91 V8

Response:

Hey everyone,     I’m new to this news group, as I am to the Audi world. My uncle has an 1993 Audi V8 Quattro that he will sell me for a steal. As I would like to have another car, I love the Audi, and it’s a deal, I think I’m going to grab it.     He is the original owner, and 2 years ago bought a 2003. The reasons for the new Audi were that a) it has a coolant leak somewhere, and b) he had the car for 8 years . As I am very close to him and his family, I am 100% sure that this is the truth. Only other problems are the hook hydraulic arm is going (the hood will stay up for 10-15 minuets, then start to fall — no biggie), the back drivers-side window is free moving (I guess it came off the motor arm. It does stay up, again — easily fixable.)     It’s got just over 100,000 miles, never any major problems or accidents. He was told that at (I think this is correct) 130,000 miles you need to change the timing belt. So this is something that I will give a high priority as it has been sitting for almost 2 years and I assume is more brittle that one might like.     I’ve been looking locally for repair manuals, but as you might expect no luck. I’m going to get one online to see what I’m dealing with. I could hack through it, but the books generally help you out with finding the easiest way to do whatever you need to do.     Parts are probably only available through the dealers, and expensive I’m sure. But that’s ok, it’s an Audi     My questions to you guys are as follows:     1) As for the coolant leak (which he said I can only probably go 2-3 miles before it would be too low on coolant) could be (in my head):             a) Leaky upper or lower hose.             b) Leaky water pump             c) Leaky radiator(/heater core?)         Now I can see the Upper hose, but the lower is hard to see beyond the big plenum on top of the engine. What would be the easiest way to get at the lower hose?     2) What are the common issues with this model? Things that commonly break.     3) Where might be a good place to get replacement parts locally (Rhode Island) or online aside from dealers?     4) Hayes or Chilton’s repair manual? Or is another better for Audis? That’s all that comes to mind. I’m going to go there later today, put some coolant in it, run it for a bit and see how bad it is. I have another uncle with a very nice 4 port garage about 1 mile away from that uncle, and I plan to try to get it there to fully check it out. Thanks for any info, Joe

Response:

Question:

The A6 is on a platform named C5. I found the Passat platform name on a VW entyhusiast website. I can’t relocate it now. It does have a different name. At the same time the TT, Jetta and New Beetle have the same platform name. I thoroughly understand what a platform is and  that it doesn’t have to be similar in size. When a good manufacturer changes materials though they’d better change design to optimize the new material. While aluminum is a lighter material than steel I believe it has a much shorter fatigue life and is not as rigid. Identical castings between steel and aluminum parts would result in either and overweight steel design or an aluminum design that would fail in a very short time. Audi understands this. That is why the platforms are different between the similarly sized Passat and A6. The Passat and A6 do share many things: suspension geometry (though not materials or castings), engine cradles (I believe), suspension sub-assemblies, etc. Their platforms are different enough that they are not recognized as identical by VW/Audi. I am very happy that VW and Audi share parts because it drives down the cost of my car. If you look far back in this thread you will see a post from me indicating I thought the platforms are identical. Since then I’ve researched it and found the difference. If there is data available that proves me wrong plase share it – I’ll stand re-corrected. The only data I have indicates they are on different platforms. It doesn’t bother me one lick if my Audi shares a platform with a Volkswagen or a Hyundai. It does matter to me that my A6 quattro has a much more confidence inspiring road feel than a Passat 4Motion – tested back-to-back-to-back. It does matter to me that the information shared in various forums be correct so that people who trust it are well informed. Aar

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Look at the chassis codes. The Passat, A6, A4 and Jetta are all from > different platforms. I thought the same as you until I recently researched > it. They share many mechanicals, suspension components/designs, etc but > the > basic platfors are quite different. In particular the Audis make much more > extensive use of aluminum which necessitates a different construction. It > also makes for a more rigid, lighter car. Thus, a higher performing car. > Where’s your research? I’d like to read it. It seems obvious that each model > has a different code – it would be quite confusing if they matched. > Differing materials doesn’t mean the part is not of the same design, either. > Just modified. The Passat and A6 got facelifts and suspension overhauls here > in UK at about the same time. Coincidence? If the car you refer to  as the > Jetta is the same model as the UK Bora, which I think is right, then that > car has the same platform as the Skoda Octavia. If I remember, the > industry-talk of the new A4 before it was fully developed was of a shortened > A6 platform. > Platforms do not have to be exactly the same in final dimension, material > and usage to be the same basic platform. This is so well publicised that I > am at a loss to understand why so many people get so huffy about Audi’s and > VW’s being so alike!

Response:

> Look at the chassis codes. The Passat, A6, A4 and Jetta are all from > different platforms. I thought the same as you until I recently researched > it. They share many mechanicals, suspension components/designs, etc but the > basic platfors are quite different. In particular the Audis make much more > extensive use of aluminum which necessitates a different construction. It > also makes for a more rigid, lighter car. Thus, a higher performing car.

Where’s your research? I’d like to read it. It seems obvious that each model has a different code – it would be quite confusing if they matched. Differing materials doesn’t mean the part is not of the same design, either. Just modified. The Passat and A6 got facelifts and suspension overhauls here in UK at about the same time. Coincidence? If the car you refer to  as the Jetta is the same model as the UK Bora, which I think is right, then that car has the same platform as the Skoda Octavia. If I remember, the industry-talk of the new A4 before it was fully developed was of a shortened A6 platform. Platforms do not have to be exactly the same in final dimension, material and usage to be the same basic platform. This is so well publicised that I am at a loss to understand why so many people get so huffy about Audi’s and VW’s being so alike!

Response:

Yes, Passat and A6 use the same platform.  But the Jetta uses Golf platform (as Seat Leon, Toledo, VW Golf, Bora (Jetta), Beetle, Audi A3, TT, Skoda Octavia).  A4 uses a shortened A6/Passat platform.  The components in VW and equivalent Audi models are basically the same, but Audi is better quality, that’s all.  Worth the extra cost?  Personnally, I think so… O.D.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Look at the chassis codes. The Passat, A6, A4 and Jetta are all from > different platforms. I thought the same as you until I recently researched > it. They share many mechanicals, suspension components/designs, etc but > the > basic platfors are quite different. In particular the Audis make much more > extensive use of aluminum which necessitates a different construction. It > also makes for a more rigid, lighter car. Thus, a higher performing car. > Where’s your research? I’d like to read it. It seems obvious that each model > has a different code – it would be quite confusing if they matched. > Differing materials doesn’t mean the part is not of the same design, either. > Just modified. The Passat and A6 got facelifts and suspension overhauls here > in UK at about the same time. Coincidence? If the car you refer to  as the > Jetta is the same model as the UK Bora, which I think is right, then that > car has the same platform as the Skoda Octavia. If I remember, the > industry-talk of the new A4 before it was fully developed was of a shortened > A6 platform. > Platforms do not have to be exactly the same in final dimension, material > and usage to be the same basic platform. This is so well publicised that I > am at a loss to understand why so many people get so huffy about Audi’s and > VW’s being so alike!

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I have a Passat and an A4 and I can prettry well swap any engine or drive train items. C. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Look at the chassis codes. The Passat, A6, A4 and Jetta are all from > different platforms. I thought the same as you until I recently researched > it. They share many mechanicals, suspension components/designs, etc but > the > basic platfors are quite different. In particular the Audis make much more > extensive use of aluminum which necessitates a different construction. It > also makes for a more rigid, lighter car. Thus, a higher performing car. > Where’s your research? I’d like to read it. It seems obvious that each model > has a different code – it would be quite confusing if they matched. > Differing materials doesn’t mean the part is not of the same design, either. > Just modified. The Passat and A6 got facelifts and suspension overhauls here > in UK at about the same time. Coincidence? If the car you refer to  as the > Jetta is the same model as the UK Bora, which I think is right, then that > car has the same platform as the Skoda Octavia. If I remember, the > industry-talk of the new A4 before it was fully developed was of a shortened > A6 platform. > Platforms do not have to be exactly the same in final dimension, material > and usage to be the same basic platform. This is so well publicised that I > am at a loss to understand why so many people get so huffy about Audi’s and > VW’s being so alike!

Response:

I thought everyone knew that the Passat and A6 were basically the same car? Platform sharing has been parent company VW’s policy since the mid 90’s. The A4 (pre new model) was the last bespoke Audi chassis until the A2. The same engines and suspension can be found on each vehicle, albeit in different guises and combinations. The differences lie, obviously, in the design and quality, as Audi represent the upper sector in the market. I would bet money that a great many of the other components all over the vehicles could be told apart only by having VW or Audi stamped on them. Audi = Luxury sector VW = Middle class sector SEAT = Sporty for the masses sector Skoda = Value sector The new Skoda Superb is another Passat (based on a long wheelbase version sold only in China) with different front/rear panels and slightly down-market seats, but it drives like an A6 to me.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject > about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and stated > that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that > we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to bite > my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" > capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, indeed, > NOT the same car!! > The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car aficionados, there are > Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." > HELP!

Response:

Look at the chassis codes. The Passat, A6, A4 and Jetta are all from different platforms. I thought the same as you until I recently researched it. They share many mechanicals, suspension components/designs, etc but the basic platfors are quite different. In particular the Audis make much more extensive use of aluminum which necessitates a different construction. It also makes for a more rigid, lighter car. Thus, a higher performing car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I thought everyone knew that the Passat and A6 were basically the same car? > Platform sharing has been parent company VW’s policy since the mid 90’s. The > A4 (pre new model) was the last bespoke Audi chassis until the A2. > The same engines and suspension can be found on each vehicle, albeit in > different guises and combinations. The differences lie, obviously, in the > design and quality, as Audi represent the upper sector in the market. I > would bet money that a great many of the other components all over the > vehicles could be told apart only by having VW or Audi stamped on them. > Audi = Luxury sector > VW = Middle class sector > SEAT = Sporty for the masses sector > Skoda = Value sector > The new Skoda Superb is another Passat (based on a long wheelbase version > sold only in China) with different front/rear panels and slightly > down-market seats, but it drives like an A6 to me. > I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject > about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and > stated > that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that > we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to > bite > my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" > capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, > indeed, > NOT the same car!! > The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car aficionados, there are > Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." > HELP!

Response:

I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and stated that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to bite my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, indeed, NOT the same car!! The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car afficianados, there are Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." HELP!

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Yeah and my A6 is really a Porsche. Some people are just dumb, plain and simple. cL – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject > about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and stated > that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that > we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to bite > my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" > capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, indeed, > NOT the same car!! > The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car afficianados, there are > Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." > HELP!

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> I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject > about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and stated > that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that

While the line between VW and Audi is getting more and more blurred, they are indeed different cars.  Some of the engines are the same, such as the 1.8T and 3.0 30v V6.   The trend isn’t Audi being more like VW, but rather VW being more like Audi.  The price, however, is beginning to reflect that. People are always going to group Nissan/Infiniti, Lexus/Toyota, and Audi/VW.  Some people know what they *think* they know about cars,  and nothing will convince them otherwise. — Vic 1997 A4 2.8q 2000 Mustang GT suspension upgrades remove _no_spam to e-mail

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>I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject >about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and stated >that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that >we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to bite >my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" >capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, indeed, >NOT the same car!! >The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car afficianados, there are >Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." >HELP!

I could see comparing the Passat wagon with "4motion" as being *similar* to A4 Avant, but not the AllRoad.

Response:

The VW Passat 4 Motion is sized between the AWD versions of the A4 and A6 wagons. VW has definitely moved up market, much closer to where Audi has traditionally been. The Passat is a fine automobile, so the comparison is not a slam on your Audi. That said, VW does not offer a similar model to the allroad–although soon they will release the Tuareg, which to my mind is a better overall design (and quite similar to the Porshe Cayenne). The real question may be, why does it bother you what others might think about what you drive? Gregg

Response:

The Passat 4Motion is essentially an A4 suspension in the front and an A6 in the back. The 2.8 and 1.8 ARE the same between the 2. Lots of other common stuff with the A4 BUT, the Passat is not the same as an allroad. The 2.7TT for starters. The adjustable ride height is another… Close, but no cigar….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject > about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and stated > that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that > we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to bite > my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" > capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, indeed, > NOT the same car!! > The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car afficianados, there are > Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." > HELP!

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well i’m a little offended that they were looking for confirmation from me that the Vdub was the same as my allroad.  And i didn’t give it to them!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The VW Passat 4 Motion is sized between the AWD versions of the A4 and A6 > wagons. VW has definitely moved up market, much closer to where Audi has > traditionally been. The Passat is a fine automobile, so the comparison is > not a slam on your Audi. That said, VW does not offer a similar model to the > allroad–although soon they will release the Tuareg, which to my mind is a > better overall design (and quite similar to the Porshe Cayenne). The real > question may be, why does it bother you what others might think about what > you drive? > Gregg

Response:

You know the car enthusiast in me agrees with you. With the exact vehicles in question you have a strong point. The logical side of me that spends money on automobiles has a different take. At this point I’m looking to purchase a vehicle in the $32-38K range. I’m looking for AWD and 250+ hp and size slightly smaller than my Maxima. That basically gives me options of a Passat W8 or S4. On the outside of any 1 of those specs I could look at a Passat GLX V6 4Matic, A6 2.7T, A6 4.2 or A4 3.0. Given that all the cars come from the same (or at least similar) platform and have simliar mechanicals the Volkswagens appear to offer a substantially better value than the Audis. Further, given that about every 10th Audi owner I talk to had a horrible experience with their Audi and Volkswagen owners don’t the Volkswagen offers an even better value. As a car enthusiast and Audi fan what am I missing? What makes the Audi worth the extra money? Bleeding edge AWD and LeMans victories do not offset higher purchase prices and lower resale values to me. In the end I believe the cars I am most interested in are the W8, V6 4Matic and A4 3.0. Aar

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject > about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and stated > that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that > we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to bite > my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" > capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, indeed, > NOT the same car!! > The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car afficianados, there are > Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." > HELP!

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Aw, don’t be offended by social climbers. They are doing the best they can!

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There you go being rational and and all!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m looking to purchase 1 car I want not 2 I don’t.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> better value than the Audis. Further, given that about every 10th Audi owner > I talk to had a horrible experience with their Audi and Volkswagen owners > don’t the Volkswagen offers an even better value. > I cannot at all confirm that. Two out of 3 Passat owners I know have and > had numerous problems with their cars. From continuously braking airvent > grids to self opening windows. From broken suspension bushes to > electrical flaws in the dashboard. > I have several friends owning a passat, it’s a popular family car over > here. Many of them wish they had bought something different. > Not that my A6 is totally flawless but there are only minor > nuisances and it’s far more fun to drive than the Passat..

*Burning* suspension bushes I’ve heard of.  Never broken. – Greg Reed — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200TQ Sedan 1990 Audi V8Q 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s)

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> *Burning* suspension bushes I’ve heard of.  Never broken.

*sighs* Pls. consider broken as synonym for "defective". > – Greg Reed

Wolfgang

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I’m looking to purchase 1 car I want not 2 I don’t.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> save a few more bucks and buy a Jetta and a Ford F-250 4×4. > You know the car enthusiast in me agrees with you. With the exact vehicles > in question you have a strong point. The logical side of me that spends > money on automobiles has a different take. At this point I’m looking to > purchase a vehicle in the $32-38K range. I’m looking for AWD and 250+ hp > and > size slightly smaller than my Maxima. That basically gives me options of a > Passat W8 or S4. On the outside of any 1 of those specs I could look at a > Passat GLX V6 4Matic, A6 2.7T, A6 4.2 or A4 3.0. > Given that all the cars come from the same (or at least similar) platform > and have simliar mechanicals the Volkswagens appear to offer a > substantially > better value than the Audis. Further, given that about every 10th Audi > owner > I talk to had a horrible experience with their Audi and Volkswagen owners > don’t the Volkswagen offers an even better value. > As a car enthusiast and Audi fan what am I missing? What makes the Audi > worth the extra money? Bleeding edge AWD and LeMans victories do not > offset > higher purchase prices and lower resale values to me. In the end I believe > the cars I am most interested in are the W8, V6 4Matic and A4 3.0. > Aar > > I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the > subject > > about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and > stated > > that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated > that > > we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to > bite > > my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" > > capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, > indeed, > > NOT the same car!! > > The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car afficianados, there are > > Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." > > HELP!

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How do you figure? An F250 runs 28K stripped up to around $45K. Toss in a Jetta for around $20K. Where’d you learn math, kid? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->save a few more bucks and buy a Jetta and a Ford F-250 4×4.

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> better value than the Audis. Further, given that about every 10th Audi owner > I talk to had a horrible experience with their Audi and Volkswagen owners > don’t the Volkswagen offers an even better value.

I cannot at all confirm that. Two out of 3 Passat owners I know have and had numerous problems with their cars. From continuously braking airvent grids to self opening windows. From broken suspension bushes to electrical flaws in the dashboard. I have several friends owning a passat, it’s a popular family car over here. Many of them wish they had bought something different. Not that my A6 is totally flawless but there are only minor nuisances and it’s far more fun to drive than the Passat.. Wolfgang

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save a few more bucks and buy a Jetta and a Ford F-250 4×4.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You know the car enthusiast in me agrees with you. With the exact vehicles > in question you have a strong point. The logical side of me that spends > money on automobiles has a different take. At this point I’m looking to > purchase a vehicle in the $32-38K range. I’m looking for AWD and 250+ hp and > size slightly smaller than my Maxima. That basically gives me options of a > Passat W8 or S4. On the outside of any 1 of those specs I could look at a > Passat GLX V6 4Matic, A6 2.7T, A6 4.2 or A4 3.0. > Given that all the cars come from the same (or at least similar) platform > and have simliar mechanicals the Volkswagens appear to offer a substantially > better value than the Audis. Further, given that about every 10th Audi owner > I talk to had a horrible experience with their Audi and Volkswagen owners > don’t the Volkswagen offers an even better value. > As a car enthusiast and Audi fan what am I missing? What makes the Audi > worth the extra money? Bleeding edge AWD and LeMans victories do not offset > higher purchase prices and lower resale values to me. In the end I believe > the cars I am most interested in are the W8, V6 4Matic and A4 3.0. > Aar > I was having lunch with a business associate and his wife when the subject > about my new Allroad came up.  She said she had a VW Passat wagon and > stated > that they were "basically the same car."  Her husband also reiterated that > we "had the same car."  I almost choked on my lemon chicken and had to > bite > my tongue, although somehow mentioning "twin-turbo" and "off-road" > capabilities had no effect on convincing my friends that they were, > indeed, > NOT the same car!! > The bottom-line, I guess, is that other than car afficianados, there are > Volkswagen people who think that VWs and Audis are "the same." > HELP!

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Not exactly. 4-Motion comes with 30V 2.8 Tip, period.  No other options in the US. Except W8, of course. A4 gives you several choices, including a stick. Considering the A4 and A6 share supsension front and rear, I’m not sure what your point is there. Passat is a large A4 or a small A6.  Sedan is far greater in actual size than an A4, regardless of what statistics say. As for the 1.8T, there were some power differences between the lines, now they are finally even. The Passat is a much better value than the A4 if you happen to like a Tip and the 30V engine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >The Passat 4Motion is essentially an A4 >suspension in the front and an A6 in the back. >The 2.8 and 1.8 ARE the same between the 2. >Lots of other common stuff with the A4 >BUT, the Passat is not the same as an allroad. >The 2.7TT for starters. The adjustable ride height >is another… >Close, but no cigar….

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Question:

It would be much easier and cheaper to just buy a turbo car. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >which in the audi range 1988-1996 would be the easiest to turbo? >where could i get turbo kits?

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Pete, Instead of adding a turbo, and all of the associated mods to a 1988-vintage Audi, you might consider looking for a turbo-equipped 1988 Audi and forgo the hassles.  The Type 44 5000 Turbo Quattro can be fairly inexpensively modified to gain horsepower, and the car is considerably lighter than it’s descendents – aka 200, ur-S4, S4.  The power:weight ratios were posted on audifans some time ago – in favour of the T44. If you are really set on turning out an Audi sleeper, then you should consult the people who have installed MC-code turbo engines into Audi 4000 quattros.  Or even redesigned the entire system like Javad at www.80tq.com or how about twin turbocharging a 3.6 litre Audi V8 in a Audi 200 body?  Why not? http://www.turbotechnik-grossholz.de/fsaudi_200.html or how about Bob Dupree’s Project LT1q, with a Chevy LT-1 V8 in a Type 44 body, with a quattro drivetrain? Sure, it’s been done: http://www.msu.edu/user/dupreer1/flyinghead/lt1q/phase2.htm (Yes, it got finished and is still chewing up asphalt and spitting out gravel, although in the hands of its next owner) If you can get a turbo engine with wiring harness and computer (important), you can put it in pretty nearly everything, given unlimited time and money. But a turbocharger by itself is just an exhaust-driven compressor – and will bust your engine if you think you can just slap it in without making allowances for mixture/timing changes under boost.  A normally-aspirated engine in the vintage of cars you state would not be equipped with a computer that would recognize and compensate for the presence of a turbocharger (not plug-n-play, so to speak). Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 5kTQ 1980 5k 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> which in the audi range 1988-1996 would be the easiest to turbo? > where could i get turbo kits?

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> which in the audi range 1988-1996 would be the easiest to turbo?

I’d suggest the 1.8t. > where could i get turbo kits?

Pop the hood … — C.R. Krieger "Don’t argue with  ’em, dear; they’re beneath our dignity." – W.C. Fields

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which in the audi range 1988-1996 would be the easiest to turbo? where could i get turbo kits?

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Buy a car that already has a turbo. There are kits to upgrade an existing turbo to a larger turbo, available at www.goapr.com and others… Randy ‘01 A4Q

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> which in the audi range 1988-1996 would be the easiest to turbo? > where could i get turbo kits?

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Question:

> If its ‘red oil’ then its not engine oil. > Its either power steering fluid, or brake fluid.  Ether way I would get it > checked by an Audi dealer as soon as possible.

… or automatic transmission fluid. – Greg Reed 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan 1989 Audi 200 TQ Sedan 1990 Audi V8Q 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s)

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could you tell me how to change spark plug? and also my car leaking oil which is red color. it is leaking at around right hand of wheel. could I still drive?

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If its ‘red oil’ then its not engine oil. Its either power steering fluid, or brake fluid.  Ether way I would get it checked by an Audi dealer as soon as possible. John.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> could you tell me how to change spark plug? > and also my car leaking oil which is red color. > it is leaking at around right hand of wheel. > could I still drive?

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<< Its either power steering fluid, or brake fluid. >> Transmission fluid?  Or, if it’s not red, what color is it usually? Peter Smith ‘93 Accord (don’t laugh, I was young and didn’t know better)

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> could you tell me how to change spark plug? > and also my car leaking oil which is red color. > it is leaking at around right hand of wheel. > could I still drive?

English lessons wouldn’t hurt……

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