Autos Audis

Autos can be made safer and quicker.

admin — Mon, 29 Nov 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>You just proposed a lot of rules that in many states already are in force. > No, I didn’t. Show me ANY state where you can lose your drivers license > permanently, never to regain it again. > Arkansas > Minnesota > Kansas > Colorado > Illinois > Texas > New Jersey > And these are just the states that showed up in a simple google search.

Ah, sorry for playing but none of these permanently revoke them – Kansas does have a permanent revocation law on the books – but the list of exceptions to it is a mile long, they offer hardship licenses (that have to be approved by the court and your parole officer) that allow limited driving. And it takes FIVE dui’s to even get to this point. Wanna bet on how many people make it to 5 DUI’s without having a major accident? The original post stated: "In short, you get 1 DUI but the second one means your license is gone – forever" Now let’s see here: Arkansas: . Does the state revoke or suspend the drivers’ licenses of people convicted of drug-related offenses? Yes, Arkansas suspends operators’ licenses. Ark. Code Ann.

V6 Accord Tire Recommendation

admin — Mon, 01 Nov 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

That was a typo; I meant to say 51,000 not 61,000 miles. – Don

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you like the stock tires, why not buy the same or equivalent Michelins? > That’s what I intend to do, although mine at 61,000 miles are not yet worn > enough to replace. > In my area, these tires are available from Costco at a reasonable price. > – Don > Hello, > I have 50K miles on my 2002 Honda Accord Sedan EX V6 and the tread on > my tires are worn just in time for the Northern Virgnia winter. Does > anyone have a recommendation on replacement tires? The stock tires > currently on my car are Michelin P205/65R15 MXV4 PLUS 92V M+S ENERGY > Radial XSE > My preferences are: > Type: All season > Size: P205/65R15 same as the stock tires > Important factors: traction (wet and snow) and tread wear lifetime > Price: any, but for tires only (I want to keep the same rims) > Locale: Northern Virginia > First time I have to buy tires for my first car. Any advice will be > appreciated. Thanks.

Response:

Hello, I have 50K miles on my 2002 Honda Accord Sedan EX V6 and the tread on my tires are worn just in time for the Northern Virgnia winter. Does anyone have a recommendation on replacement tires? The stock tires currently on my car are Michelin P205/65R15 MXV4 PLUS 92V M+S ENERGY Radial XSE My preferences are: Type: All season Size: P205/65R15 same as the stock tires Important factors: traction (wet and snow) and tread wear lifetime Price: any, but for tires only (I want to keep the same rims) Locale: Northern Virginia First time I have to buy tires for my first car. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I have 50K miles on my 2002 Honda Accord Sedan EX V6 and the tread on > my tires are worn just in time for the Northern Virgnia winter. Does > anyone have a recommendation on replacement tires? The stock tires > currently on my car are Michelin P205/65R15 MXV4 PLUS 92V M+S ENERGY > Radial XSE > My preferences are: > Type: All season > Size: P205/65R15 same as the stock tires > Important factors: traction (wet and snow) and tread wear lifetime > Price: any, but for tires only (I want to keep the same rims) > Locale: Northern Virginia > First time I have to buy tires for my first car. Any advice will be > appreciated. Thanks.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireMode…

Response:

Those are good tires. I have a ‘99 EX-L V6. I just got Goodyear TripleTreds a few weeks ago at Discount Tire. I went with the stock size, but figured to try something a lot different. Goodyear Assurance TripleTred There are a couple of notes: (1) they add some road noise, but I expected this as they are 80,000 treadlife tires (harder rubber) (2) they give MUCH increased performance, tighter feel (like the car is ready for a lateral movement at your will) (3) they cut through puddles as they were not there (4) can hear a difference when turning at slow speeds, sounds like they are digging into the road (grip) (5) They are about $100 each but I look to that as they will last longer (I hope) I can’t comment on winter performance, but other people have rated them well. -keith tallahassee, fl

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireMode… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

>http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireMode…

I second this recommendation. I bought these tires from Tire Rack a year ago to replace the OEM piece of crap Bridgestones. I had 45k miles on my Accord. I now have 60k. They transformed the driving experience, dramatically improving steering response, handling and ride quality. They are a bit noisy, and they have cost me a couple of mpgs in my gas mileage, but the tradeoff is worth it to me. Now I ‘need’ to replace the struts with a good after market set to get rid of the floppy left/right initial body roll . . . George

Response:

Thanks for the recommendation. Think I’ll try out the Bridgestones. Cost less than the Michelins and rated higher at tirerack. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I have 50K miles on my 2002 Honda Accord Sedan EX V6 and the tread on > my tires are worn just in time for the Northern Virgnia winter. Does > anyone have a recommendation on replacement tires? The stock tires > currently on my car are Michelin P205/65R15 MXV4 PLUS 92V M+S ENERGY > Radial XSE > My preferences are: > Type: All season > Size: P205/65R15 same as the stock tires > Important factors: traction (wet and snow) and tread wear lifetime > Price: any, but for tires only (I want to keep the same rims) > Locale: Northern Virginia > First time I have to buy tires for my first car. Any advice will be > appreciated. Thanks. > http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireMode…

Response:

If you like the stock tires, why not buy the same or equivalent Michelins? That’s what I intend to do, although mine at 61,000 miles are not yet worn enough to replace. In my area, these tires are available from Costco at a reasonable price. – Don

Response:

Hi! Do you mean you did 50,000 miles on only one set of tires? It’s impressive indeed. I cannot do more than 30,000 miles on my cars. — Best regards. Giovanni Tarantino Bevaix (NE) Switzerland 1997 Audi A4 2.8 Q 231,000 km (144,000 miles) 1997 BMW 535i 230,000 km (142,000 miles) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I have 50K miles on my 2002 Honda Accord Sedan EX V6 and the tread on > my tires are worn just in time for the Northern Virgnia winter. Does > anyone have a recommendation on replacement tires? The stock tires > currently on my car are Michelin P205/65R15 MXV4 PLUS 92V M+S ENERGY > Radial XSE > My preferences are: > Type: All season > Size: P205/65R15 same as the stock tires > Important factors: traction (wet and snow) and tread wear lifetime > Price: any, but for tires only (I want to keep the same rims) > Locale: Northern Virginia > First time I have to buy tires for my first car. Any advice will be > appreciated. Thanks.

Response:

good first cars

admin — Thu, 23 Sep 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

>hey i’m 19 and never been behind the weel of a car. i will soon be >geting my license and my first car i was woundering what would be some >good cars to look at.something around 15 to 20 grand.

A car with nice leather interior for 15-20 grand? For that kind of money, you could get a Porsche 928S4 with 300hp, leather interior, and have 5 grand left over, easy. Also a Porsche 944 Turbo with 250hp, fully loaded. Also a 968. Several types of 911. Or a BMW M3 sedan, E30 or E36. Early M5 sedan, E39 5-series, lots of seven series. Almost any Jaguar made in the last 10 years, powerful engine and luxo-barge. Mercedes E or C class. Audi A4 and some A6 models. And the grand-daddy of bargains, imo, the Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow preferably series II (1977-1980). Odds are you’ll never encounter another one at any cruise night a 19-yo would be caught dead at, and cheap to run if you’re mechanically inclined. I had one for years, bought off of eBay for under 7 grand – swapped it for the 928+944 recently. Emanuel — 1983 Porsche 911 1983 Porsche 944 1983 Porsche 928

Response:

> hey i’m 19 and never been behind the weel of a car. i will soon be > geting my license and my first car i was woundering what would be some > good cars to look at.something around 15 to 20 grand.i really dont > want a racecar like a civic,or lancer but i do want something small.i > wanna have a car were someone says let me see whats under the hood and > im like no thats o.k. but why dont you step inside and i got some > leather interor with a woulden dash panel and a stero system you could > here down the block.i plan on doing this stuff myself after the > purchase of the car not getting it all for 15-20 grand > thanx

I always wondered where Hyundai got their sales. Peter

Response:

15 20 k is a lot of money for a first car on my opinion. also i’d start with something rather older like mid 90s. if you can come up with your favorite manufacturer, selection would be much easier. i advise you to get something turbocharged, cause the performance will be sufficient for you to start up with and further improvements yield bigger results compared to atmospheric engines. also you get more extensive hands on experience. my first car was a 92 nissan nx. my only regret was that it had 1.6l enigne not the 2.0. other than that it was sporty, fast enough for in city traffic, tops could go off, looked pretty good with tinted windows, big tires and an exhaust tip. it also had good acustics and i had good ice.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey i’m 19 and never been behind the weel of a car. i will soon be > geting my license and my first car i was woundering what would be some > good cars to look at.something around 15 to 20 grand.i really dont > want a racecar like a civic,or lancer but i do want something small.i > wanna have a car were someone says let me see whats under the hood and > im like no thats o.k. but why dont you step inside and i got some > leather interor with a woulden dash panel and a stero system you could > here down the block.i plan on doing this stuff myself after the > purchase of the car not getting it all for 15-20 grand > thanx

Response:

hey i’m 19 and never been behind the weel of a car. i will soon be geting my license and my first car i was woundering what would be some good cars to look at.something around 15 to 20 grand.i really dont want a racecar like a civic,or lancer but i do want something small.i wanna have a car were someone says let me see whats under the hood and im like no thats o.k. but why dont you step inside and i got some leather interor with a woulden dash panel and a stero system you could here down the block.i plan on doing this stuff myself after the purchase of the car not getting it all for 15-20 grand thanx

Response:

The Allure Of A Manual Tranny

admin — Sat, 14 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I recently went shopaholic and bought a ‘99 Infiniti G20T manual tranny car. I used to drive a ’70s Honda Civic with a manual and have been pining for a taste of what it’s like to drive a stick again. While it’s been fun, all three of us are having difficulty understanding the people who defend the manual tranny to the end. Perhaps you could share why you would choose to never drive an auto tranny and will shift till your dying day? I’m still enjoying the experience of shifting, but can see tiring of it in a month. What keeps you manual’s from moving to the "dark side" lol of auto bliss?

Response:

Aug 2004 with message > I recently went shopaholic and bought a ‘99 Infiniti G20T manual > tranny car. I used to drive a ’70s Honda Civic with a manual and have > been pining for a taste of what it’s like to drive a stick again. > While it’s been fun, all three of us are having difficulty > understanding the people who defend the manual tranny to the end. > Perhaps you could share why you would choose to never drive an auto > tranny and will shift till your dying day? I’m still enjoying the > experience of shifting, but can see tiring of it in a month. > What keeps you manual’s from moving to the "dark side" lol of auto > bliss?

Seems like with a manual transmission, you KNOW it’s going to need to be fixed every so often (clutch related parts wearing out) … If something is wrong with it, they can fix just that part.. With automatics, if something is wrong, seems like the whole damn thing needs to be rebuilt .. and you never know when that’s gonna happen, and it’s hella expensive. With MT, I can get better acceleration from a stop.. For example, when turning left across oncoming traffic.. In my AT car, I punch the gas and hope and pray it won’t lurch forward like it’s in 2nd gear or something. MT cars don’t usually need a jump.. just roll-started I like having control over when I shift as opposed to having a computer predict when I want to shift based on the position of the gas pedal. All car thieves know how to drive an automatic.. Not all know how to drive a stick Take this article, for example: http://tinyurl.com/68fjo — -Chris http://www.ChrisGarcia.com – My Homepage http://www.Evangar.com – Affordable Web Hosting, and much more!

Response:

>> With MT, I can get better acceleration from a stop.. >Wanna bet?

If done properly (rev and either side-step or quickly slip clutch), manuals are faster. In part since they are more efficient, also they tend to have have tighter ratios (but not always now with 6-speed autos). But for normal driving, you can probably be faster with an auto since they torque multiply. > I like having control over when I shift as opposed to having a computer > predict when I want to shift based on the position of the gas pedal. >So get one with the manual shift control, like just about every major >auto trans has nowadays–like Chrylser’s AutoStick.

Yeah, but the majority (though not all) of them don’t hold a gear, they’ll upshift when at redline. Some even before. And they also tend to shift pretty slowly. None of these slushbox automanuals are as good as a manual. More lossy. Slow shifts. I haven’t found an automanual I like. It all, I think, comes down to that feeling of one-ness with a car. And of mastering skills such as heel-toeing (which I’m half-a**ed at) and rev-matching. I drive both and I far-prefer a manual for any sporting car.

Response:

>>With MT, I can get better acceleration from a stop.. > Wanna bet?

sure. find someone with a 96-00 civic dx hatch, auto tranny. no mods. guaranteed ill outaccellerate them. auto trannies are getting better, more gears, etc. but you cant rev to the sweet spot and drop the clutch like a good ol fashioned stick. im sure mr bone will be around to school you some more. >MT cars don’t usually need a jump.. just roll-started > Ah, in the days before computerized everything. There isn’t a car built > today that can be roll-started.

i just roll started a 98 corolla the other week. bad (OEM!)battery, girl had to get home. its got FI, and OBD2. no problems, she made it home, and her hubby changed the battery. > Strike 2.

seems like youre whiffing, so far. >I like having control over when I shift as opposed to having a computer >predict when I want to shift based on the position of the gas pedal. > So get one with the manual shift control, like just about every major > auto trans has nowadays–like Chrylser’s AutoStick.

yeah- that gimmick is going the way of LCD dashboards and voices saying "your door is ajar". its good for the pooseys that buy porsches but dont know how to drive stick- makes em feel like theyre "doing something". > Strike 3…

come back when you have some real-world experience, and try again.

Response:

1. Manual is a minimum of $500 cheaper on a new car. 2. Repair costs of a manual transmission are lower. I think. I’ll switch to Automatic transmission when I’m elderly. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I recently went shopaholic and bought a ‘99 Infiniti G20T manual tranny > car. I used to drive a ’70s Honda Civic with a manual and have been > pining for a taste of what it’s like to drive a stick again. > While it’s been fun, all three of us are having difficulty understanding > the people who defend the manual tranny to the end. > Perhaps you could share why you would choose to never drive an auto > tranny and will shift till your dying day? I’m still enjoying the > experience of shifting, but can see tiring of it in a month. > What keeps you manual’s from moving to the "dark side" lol of auto > bliss?

Response:

a few points: 1. If you spend a great deal of your day in stop-and-go traffic, get back over into the dark side, or a hybrid CVT car if circumstances allow. 2. The shift points of auto’s are set by their engineers for a best guess for most drivers and environments. Performance driving, twisty curvy mountain roads demand that you decide onthe shift points. You know the exact amount of efficiency or performance you want from one second to another and no automatic transmission can anticipate you gunning the motor. 3. When going down proper hills, a manual tranny takes the heat off of the brakes by giving u access to the engine friction. 4. I believe modern manual cars can still be push started. I do it every morning rolling down the hill of my parking lot in my ‘97 Jetta TDI. 5. Those fake auto-shift type transmissions are no good imho. There is a loss of energy when the linkage is not direct; you loose the engine braking thing down hills, (I suspect, but am not certain that) you cannot push start them, and they are more expensive. regards, KL

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I recently went shopaholic and bought a ‘99 Infiniti G20T manual tranny > car. I used to drive a ’70s Honda Civic with a manual and have been > pining for a taste of what it’s like to drive a stick again. > While it’s been fun, all three of us are having difficulty understanding > the people who defend the manual tranny to the end. > Perhaps you could share why you would choose to never drive an auto > tranny and will shift till your dying day? I’m still enjoying the > experience of shifting, but can see tiring of it in a month. > What keeps you manual’s from moving to the "dark side" lol of auto > bliss?

Response:

>1. Manual is a minimum of $500 cheaper on a new car.

Atleast $500 cheaper, but if you sit in traffic a lot and have to pay someone to do your clutch replacements, the costs can add up. When I lived in LA, I was always creeping or stop/go. So a clutch every 20-30k isn’t necessarily cheaper.. >2. Repair costs of a manual transmission are lower. I think.

Maybe.. The manual is probably a bit less labor to disassemble, but I suspect individual hard part costs are comparable.. >I’ll switch to Automatic transmission when I’m elderly.

They tow more (due to torque converter multiplication), are more convenient to drive, shift smoothely, attempt to maximize fuel economy, and limit emissions.. I think I’ll stick to my automatic .. as I sit in traffic. > I recently went shopaholic and bought a ‘99 Infiniti G20T manual tranny > car. I used to drive a ’70s Honda Civic with a manual and have been > pining for a taste of what it’s like to drive a stick again. > While it’s been fun, all three of us are having difficulty understanding > the people who defend the manual tranny to the end. > Perhaps you could share why you would choose to never drive an auto > tranny and will shift till your dying day? I’m still enjoying the > experience of shifting, but can see tiring of it in a month. > What keeps you manual’s from moving to the "dark side" lol of auto > bliss?

Note: To reply, replace the word ’spam’ embedded in return address with ‘mail’. N37.3 W122.0

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I recently went shopaholic and bought a ‘99 Infiniti G20T manual tranny > car. I used to drive a ’70s Honda Civic with a manual and have been > pining for a taste of what it’s like to drive a stick again. > While it’s been fun, all three of us are having difficulty understanding > the people who defend the manual tranny to the end. > Perhaps you could share why you would choose to never drive an auto > tranny and will shift till your dying day? I’m still enjoying the > experience of shifting, but can see tiring of it in a month. > What keeps you manual’s from moving to the "dark side" lol of auto > bliss?

I prefer to drive manual mainly because shifting and doing footwork is kind of fun, and it makes me feel smug. I don’t really get tired of it, even in stop and go traffic. I think that unless you really good, you can drive more smoothly and get better "lap times" in an automatic. Two things I don’t like about automatic are that you can be pressing no pedals, and the car will still "go" by itself, and also, the car sometimes upshifts or downshifts and catches you by surprise.

Response:

>> So get one with the manual shift control, like just about every major > auto trans has nowadays–like Chrylser’s AutoStick. >Is the Autostick anything like Porsche’s Tiptronic?

Yes. Basically, with electronic controls that all modern AT’s have, any of them can have such a system. They just give them proprietary names and charge much more than they cost to add them (IMHO).

Response:

Basically like an electronic version of VW’s "Autostick" tranny from the 1960s. — KWW ‘65 Beetle (Jenny the IOC) ‘64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> So get one with the manual shift control, like just about every major >> auto trans has nowadays–like Chrylser’s AutoStick. >Is the Autostick anything like Porsche’s Tiptronic? > Yes. Basically, with electronic controls that all modern AT’s > have, any of them can have such a system. They just give them > proprietary names and charge much more than they cost to add them > (IMHO).

Response:

>> It all, I think, comes down to that feeling of one-ness with a car. > And of mastering skills such as heel-toeing (which I’m half-a**ed at) > and rev-matching. I drive both and I far-prefer a manual for any > sporting car. > This is so "suddenly it’s 1955" – with modern synchromesh your > heel-toeing probably causes more wear than it saves

I don’t know if you are referring to a double clutch or not, but heel toeing and rev matching save wear on the clutch and synchros. (and why would you > want to use your expensive transmission to slow down instead of wearing > out the user replaceable brake pads? ).

My theory in terms of wearing out the engine vs wearing out the brakes is: It’s better to not be able to go than not be able to stop. Just kidding.

Response:

>> It all, I think, comes down to that feeling of one-ness with a > car. And of mastering skills such as heel-toeing (which I’m > half-a**ed at) and rev-matching. I drive both and I far-prefer a > manual for any sporting car. >This is so "suddenly it’s 1955" – with modern synchromesh your >heel-toeing probably causes more wear than it saves (and why would you >want to use your expensive transmission to slow down instead of wearing >out the user replaceable brake pads? )

You do NOT use the trans or engine for braking. That’s the whole point of the rev-matching in heal-toe. It is also not really about the synchro. Perhaps you are thinking about double-clutching (where again, there is no wear or engine/trans braking)? Heal-toe is still useful for racing, where I am (badly) trying to apply it. Yes, on a track or autoX. Say you are approaching a 3rd gear turn in 4th. You first brake, and rev-match your downshift to third while still braking. Hit the apex, and then let her fly out. If you don’t heal-toe, you either: a) Have to wait till finished braking to change gears, losing valuable accel time, or b) You change gears without rev-match sending a jolt to your drivetrain which should have the tires already at full traction. You seriously risk disturbing the car in mid-turn, ie spin out. Basically, if you don’t heal-toe in racing, you simply are losing time.

Response:

> 1. Manual is a minimum of $500 cheaper on a new car. > 2. Repair costs of a manual transmission are lower. I think. > I’ll switch to Automatic transmission when I’m elderly.

When will that be, Caroline?

Response:

> Two things I don’t like about automatic are that you can be pressing no > pedals, and the car will still "go" by itself,

I find this a curious remark – it’s certainly possible to have a manual in 1st gear with no feet on pedals & the car will creep along (at least they used to). > and also, the car > sometimes upshifts or downshifts and catches you by surprise.

Huh, how’s that? I really don’t think about up & downshifts when driving an AT. (may be an age factor here – my boy racer days are well behind me )

Response:

> > > Two things I don’t like about automatic are that you can be pressing no > pedals, and the car will still "go" by itself, > I find this a curious remark – it’s certainly possible to have a manual > in 1st gear with no feet on pedals & the car will creep along (at least > they used to).

That’s coz you had to get it started going first, by engaging the clutch and pressing the gas. Then it makes sense that the car is "just coasting along" when you aren’t pushing the pedals anymore. With an auto, you can let go of the brake ("the car is already stopped, why should I need to use the brakes anymore?") and suddenly the car will start moving by itself again. > and also, the car sometimes upshifts or downshifts and catches you by > surprise. > Huh, how’s that? I really don’t think about up & downshifts when driving > an AT. (may be an age factor here – my boy racer days are well behind me > )

I mean, you’re driving up a hill, and suddenly the car downshifts and you surge forwards

Response:

>> But like so many others, you can’t simply say "I prefer that". No, > you think you have to come up with bullshit justifications, > seems like your little gay-ass "3-strikes" comment was a bullshit > justification, but since you got soundly spanked you dont want to admit > to it.

Godwin’s 2nd law must be that when one party to a Usenet debate accuses the other of being gay, then he loses (automatically, not manually).

Response:

> So get one with the manual shift control, like just about every major > auto trans has nowadays–like Chrylser’s AutoStick.

Is the Autostick anything like Porsche’s Tiptronic?

Response:

> It all, I think, comes down to that feeling of one-ness with a > car. And of mastering skills such as heel-toeing (which I’m > half-a**ed at) and rev-matching. I drive both and I far-prefer a > manual for any sporting car.

This is so "suddenly it’s 1955" – with modern synchromesh your heel-toeing probably causes more wear than it saves (and why would you want to use your expensive transmission to slow down instead of wearing out the user replaceable brake pads? ). My first AT was my ‘88 Integra & I loved it – I wouldn’t consider a manual for the NYC area these days. YMMV (of course) ;)

Response:

> But like so many others, you can’t simply say "I prefer that". No, you > think you have to come up with bullshit justifications,

seems like your little gay-ass "3-strikes" comment was a bullshit justification, but since you got soundly spanked you dont want to admit to it.

Response:

>>>With MT, I can get better acceleration from a stop.. >Wanna bet? > Well, if i were to hold the brake down while pushing the gas, then > releasing the brake.. I guess I could get the same acceleration

and if i held the gas and clutch down, then released the clutch quickly? you wouldnt. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

> In article > Any good reason a van driver shouldn’t have a stick? > The point is, it doesn’t come from the manufacturer that way.

Oh. I see. So… "No, no good reason that people shouldn’t modify their cars to suit themselves", other that it seems to bother an anonomous USENET poster?

Response:

@text.usenetserver.com: > With MT, I can get better acceleration from a stop.. > Wanna bet?

Well, if i were to hold the brake down while pushing the gas, then releasing the brake.. I guess I could get the same acceleration — -Chris http://www.ChrisGarcia.com – My Homepage http://www.Evangar.com – Affordable Web Hosting, and much more!

Response:

>5. Those fake auto-shift type transmissions are no good imho. There is a >loss of energy when the linkage is not direct; you loose the engine braking >thing down hills, (I suspect, but am not certain that) you cannot push start >them, and they are more expensive.

The DSG in some VW/Audi cars and the SMG in some BMW cars have more direct linkages without torque converters. However, most automatic transmissions with enhanced manual shift control do have torque converters, which would be the main negative point for those who don’t like the (real or perceived) "slushiness" of torque converters. — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.

Response:

>What keeps you manual’s from moving to the "dark side" lol of auto >bliss?

Manual advantages: Better fuel economy. Faster acceleration. Lower cost. Less expensive repairs (clutch vs. rebuild automatic transmission). For Hondas, better reliability (look for threads about Accord, TL, and Odyssey automatic transmissions failing). Manual disadvantages: Difficult or impossible for a person with disability to drive. — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.

Response:

> > I drive both and I far-prefer a > manual for any sporting car. > Absolutely! > But I just read someone the other day asking about modifying a Honda > minivan to have a manual transmission–for no other reason than he and > his wife have always driven manual transmissions, and they see no reason > to change that now–DESPITE the fact that they’re now driving a minivan. > They have no concept of tools and appropriateness. They don’t have a > clue about anything.

Please explain revelevance. Any good reason a van driver shouldn’t have a stick? Or is this based on your preconceptions of van drivers?

Response:

The Allure Of A Manual Tranny

admin — Sat, 14 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Response:

>> With MT, I can get better acceleration from a stop.. >Wanna bet?

Response:

>>With MT, I can get better acceleration from a stop.. > Wanna bet?

i just roll started a 98 corolla the other week. bad (OEM!)battery, girl had to get home. its got FI, and OBD2. no problems, she made it home, and her hubby changed the battery. > Strike 2.

come back when you have some real-world experience, and try again.

Response:

>1. Manual is a minimum of $500 cheaper on a new car.

Maybe.. The manual is probably a bit less labor to disassemble, but I suspect individual hard part costs are comparable.. >I’ll switch to Automatic transmission when I’m elderly.

Note: To reply, replace the word ’spam’ embedded in return address with ‘mail’. N37.3 W122.0

Response:

>> So get one with the manual shift control, like just about every major > auto trans has nowadays–like Chrylser’s AutoStick. >Is the Autostick anything like Porsche’s Tiptronic?

Yes. Basically, with electronic controls that all modern AT’s have, any of them can have such a system. They just give them proprietary names and charge much more than they cost to add them (IMHO).

Response:

Basically like an electronic version of VW’s "Autostick" tranny from the 1960s. — KWW ‘65 Beetle (Jenny the IOC) ‘64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)

Response:

My theory in terms of wearing out the engine vs wearing out the brakes is: It’s better to not be able to go than not be able to stop. Just kidding.

Response:

> 1. Manual is a minimum of $500 cheaper on a new car. > 2. Repair costs of a manual transmission are lower. I think. > I’ll switch to Automatic transmission when I’m elderly.

When will that be, Caroline?

Response:

> Two things I don’t like about automatic are that you can be pressing no > pedals, and the car will still "go" by itself,

Huh, how’s that? I really don’t think about up & downshifts when driving an AT. (may be an age factor here – my boy racer days are well behind me )

Response:

I mean, you’re driving up a hill, and suddenly the car downshifts and you surge forwards

Response:

Godwin’s 2nd law must be that when one party to a Usenet debate accuses the other of being gay, then he loses (automatically, not manually).

Response:

> So get one with the manual shift control, like just about every major > auto trans has nowadays–like Chrylser’s AutoStick.

Is the Autostick anything like Porsche’s Tiptronic?

Response:

> But like so many others, you can’t simply say "I prefer that". No, you > think you have to come up with bullshit justifications,

seems like your little gay-ass "3-strikes" comment was a bullshit justification, but since you got soundly spanked you dont want to admit to it.

Response:

and if i held the gas and clutch down, then released the clutch quickly? you wouldnt. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

> In article > Any good reason a van driver shouldn’t have a stick? > The point is, it doesn’t come from the manufacturer that way.

Oh. I see. So… "No, no good reason that people shouldn’t modify their cars to suit themselves", other that it seems to bother an anonomous USENET poster?

Response:

@text.usenetserver.com: > With MT, I can get better acceleration from a stop.. > Wanna bet?

Response:

>What keeps you manual’s from moving to the "dark side" lol of auto >bliss?

Response:

Please explain revelevance. Any good reason a van driver shouldn’t have a stick? Or is this based on your preconceptions of van drivers?

Response:

Battery

admin — Fri, 06 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

If I have a battery operated sump pump with a deep cycle marine battery on a float charger and it is not used how long will my battery remain good , or at 90 % life . 10 yrs ? 20 yrs? 30+ yrs ?

Response:

> If I have a battery operated sump pump with a deep cycle marine battery >on a float charger and it is not used how long will my battery remain >good , or at 90 % life . 10 yrs ? 20 yrs? 30+ yrs ?

That is dependent on the battery. The manufacturer will have an answer. If you do nothing other than what you describe, eventually the electrolyte level will get below the plates; the plates will warp and the battery will die. That will be true for most lead-acid deep discharge batteries. Life span would likely be less than a year. If you have something like a Surrette 8CS25P, and you float it at the correct voltage; check the electrolyte level at appropriate intervals; and perform an equalizing charge every six months or when needed, the battery should last at least ten years, and probably quite a bit longer — perhaps double that. –ron

Response:

It depends on the plate chemistry, preventive maintenance and charging voltages. Please see Section 11 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org for table on expected battery service life. Kindest regards, BiLL….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If I have a battery operated sump pump with a deep cycle marine battery >on a float charger and it is not used how long will my battery remain >good , or at 90 % life . 10 yrs ? 20 yrs? 30+ yrs ?

Response:

Hi If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on the car ? pat…

Response:

Might help to know if your 1936 Frammis has the discombobulator valve on the rear axle. Or if the tires are whitewall or hard rubber, etc. Of course, if the battery blew up — which can happen — it may all be moot. Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on > the car ? > pat…

Response:

HI Sorry it is a 1990 Grandam Quad 4 the battery still works no blow up the alternator smoked a bit however it was toast to start with. which is why the battery was being replaced to begin with. pat… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Might help to know if your 1936 Frammis has the discombobulator valve on the > rear axle. Or if the tires are whitewall or hard rubber, etc. > Of course, if the battery blew up — which can happen — it may all be moot. > Myron E. Williams > Hi > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on > the car ? > pat…

Response:

The alternator will quite likely take damage. It could also damage devices like the radio and the ECM. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on > the car ? > pat…

Response:

Sorry I don’t know the Quad 4, but in that era the likeliest problem is the alternator or maybe the computer. There may be other modules in the distributor which can fail with reversed poplarity. Don’t make a habit of it! Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > HI > Sorry > it is a 1990 Grandam Quad 4 > the battery still works no blow up > the alternator smoked a bit however it was toast to start with. which is why > the battery was being replaced to begin with. > pat… > Might help to know if your 1936 Frammis has the discombobulator valve on > the > rear axle. Or if the tires are whitewall or hard rubber, etc. > Of course, if the battery blew up — which can happen — it may all be > moot. > Myron E. Williams > > Hi > > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown > on > > the car ? > > pat…

Response:

HI All I just wanted to thank everyone for there input. I also wanted to let everyone know that the only think that blew was the Alternator. thanks pat…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi > If some one hooked a battery up backwords. What can i expect to be blown on > the car ? > pat…

Response:

Hi. First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try to explain things simply. There was transmission work done on it about a month ago and they failed to connect the battery tightly, leading me to think that the battery had gone dead because I couldn’t start the truck at all. When I took it in to get the battery changed, the mechanic tested it first and said that it was still good. He tightened the terminals and everything was fine until today. When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window the battery meter would go crazy back and forth. If I tried to put two windows down and once the batter warning light came on. When stoped the truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again immediately after, there was no power at all. After waiting 5 minutes, I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. What should I do? I konw the first place to start is to clean the corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me. I know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do. I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like that? I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use a wire brush to clean it off. So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I can handle it. Or if you think it’s something other than just terminal corrosion, please feel free to say so. BTW-the truck is a 1994 Explorer with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. Thanks so much.

Response:

Original batt on a ‘94? That battery, even if corroded, is due for changing–get a new one–and that way you don’t need to worry about cleaning it for a while. Now, yes, if you set out to clean a battery, disconnect both the negative and positive terminals, in that order. Then lift the batter out of the car and place it somewhere to clean it but try not to put it on cold cement floor. Use wire brush to brush off terminal(s), one at a time and be careful not to touch anything metal between the two terminals so there is touching between the two terminals..it will arc/spark and maybe cause an explosion. Then mix a solution of water and baking soda and pour it over the top of each terminal, slowly. Wipe off entire battery with an old rag and throw the rag away, as it will have some residue of battery acid on it and will deteriorate the rag and anything else it comes into contact with. When dry, put the battery back in the car…..oh, before hand check the metal holders and wipe/clean it up some…..tighten down the positive cable first and then the negative cable. Good Luck! — Take Care and Have a Good Day. CUL8R, Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi. First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try > to explain things simply. > When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window the > battery meter would go crazy back and forth. If I tried to put two > windows down and once the batter warning light came on. When stoped the > truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again > immediately after, there was no power at all. After waiting 5 minutes, > I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. > What should I do? I konw the first place to start is to clean the > corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me. I > know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do . > I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the > sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like > that? I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use a > wire brush to clean it off. > So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I > can handle it. Or if you think it’s something other than just terminal > corrosion, please feel free to say so. BTW-the truck is a 1994 Explorer > with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. > Thanks so much.

Response:

The steps recommended while good solve half of the potential problems. The battery connectors can become coated with sulfuric acid and corrosion like the battery terminals. Clean the inside and outside surfaces of the connectors with a battery terminal brush or a stainless steel brush. Don’t get overly aggessive if the cable uses a lead type clamp as the clamp can only close so far on the post ( this assumes you have a post type battery connection), Dip the cleaned connector into the baking soda solution. Dipping the connections and a segment of the attached wires in the baking soda solution can neutralize the acid that can be wicked into the strands of the wire. The neutralized acid/copper solution will be foamy and green. Subsequent dippings are warranted until the green mixture (copper sulphate) stops coming out. Rinse the area very well with fresh water and allow to dry. If acid leaked into the battery holder in the pour a mixture of baking soda and water on it to neutralize the acid that can eventually eat away the paint and supporting metal and rinse well. Prime an repaint the area if warranted. When reconnecting the clamps on the battery do not put the clamps all the way down so that they touch the face of the battery. Keep the bottom of the clamp up about 1/8" from the battery. This will keep future acid leaks from reaching the conector and reduce the likliehood of salts and the like from creating a current path on the surface of the battery case. (Yes, I know it’s only 12 volts) After you have reconnected the terminals of the battery you can apply a light film of lithium base grease to help keep moisture out of the connection and reduce the chance of a bad connection as well as corrosion. I hope it helps. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Original batt on a ‘94? That battery, even if corroded, is due for > changing–get a new one–and that way you don’t need to worry about > cleaning it for a while. Now, yes, if you set out to clean a battery, > disconnect both the negative and positive terminals, in that order. > Then lift the batter out of the car and place it somewhere to clean it > but try not to put it on cold cement floor. Use wire brush to brush off > terminal(s), one at a time and be careful not to touch anything metal > between the two terminals so there is touching between the two > terminals..it will arc/spark and maybe cause an explosion. > Then mix a solution of water and baking soda and pour it over the top of > each terminal, slowly. Wipe off entire battery with an old rag and > throw the rag away, as it will have some residue of battery acid on it > and will deteriorate the rag and anything else it comes into contact > with. When dry, put the battery back in the car…..oh, before hand > check the metal holders and wipe/clean it up some…..tighten down the > positive cable first and then the negative cable. > Good Luck! > — > Take Care and Have a Good Day. > CUL8R, Mike > Hi. First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try > to explain things simply. > When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window > the > battery meter would go crazy back and forth. If I tried to put two > windows down and once the batter warning light came on. When stoped > the > truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again > immediately after, there was no power at all. After waiting 5 > minutes, > I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. > What should I do? I konw the first place to start is to clean the > corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me. > I > know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do > . > I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the > sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like > that? I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use > a > wire brush to clean it off. > So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I > can handle it. Or if you think it’s something other than just > terminal > corrosion, please feel free to say so. BTW-the truck is a 1994 > Explorer > with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. > Thanks so much.

Response:

Thanks to the both of you that replied (and to anyone else that might reply before reading this). I tried to start it up again and it barely turned over after cranking for about 5 seconds, so I decided to get it checked. Diagnois: dead battery. They instaled a new one, cleaned up the connectors etc., and everything works fine again. Can anyone recommend a site or book or something that can tell someone with absolutely no car knowledge how to do basic maintenence and repair? Seems I’ve been having a lot of troubles with my Explorer lately and I don’t like being completely clueless. Thank you again. Mark

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi. First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try > to explain things simply. > There was transmission work done on it about a month ago and they failed > to connect the battery tightly, leading me to think that the battery had > gone dead because I couldn’t start the truck at all. When I took it in > to get the battery changed, the mechanic tested it first and said that > it was still good. He tightened the terminals and everything was fine > until today. > When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window the > battery meter would go crazy back and forth. If I tried to put two > windows down and once the batter warning light came on. When stoped the > truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again > immediately after, there was no power at all. After waiting 5 minutes, > I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. > What should I do? I konw the first place to start is to clean the > corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me. I > know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do. > I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the > sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like > that? I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use a > wire brush to clean it off. > So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I > can handle it. Or if you think it’s something other than just terminal > corrosion, please feel free to say so. BTW-the truck is a 1994 Explorer > with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. > Thanks so much.

Put on some gloves and protective goggles. Disconnect both battery terminals, use a stiff brush or soft wire brush to clean the terminals and lead clamps, Protect the cleaned connections with some vaseline. Or, gGo to you nearest autoparts store and buy a battery terminal cleaner, use it and then protect the terminals with any one of the products the autoparts store will be happy to sell you. You should also put the battery on charge or have it charged. Battery chargers are relatively inexpensive and a useful things to keep around. Messing with acid is dangerous and you should not have to do it anyway. Hope this helps.

Response:

Don’t forget that the battery cables themselves (usually the positive one) can often be corroded inside the insulation, causing problems like yours. Replacig the bad cable fixes the problem. Also, of course, cleaning the terminals may do the trick. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi. First, I know nothing about car maintenence at all, so please try >to explain things simply. >There was transmission work done on it about a month ago and they failed >to connect the battery tightly, leading me to think that the battery had >gone dead because I couldn’t start the truck at all. When I took it in >to get the battery changed, the mechanic tested it first and said that >it was still good. He tightened the terminals and everything was fine >until today. >When I was driving I noticed that when I went to put down the window the >battery meter would go crazy back and forth. If I tried to put two >windows down and once the batter warning light came on. When stoped the >truck and turned off the engine then tried to start it up again >immediately after, there was no power at all. After waiting 5 minutes, >I tried again and it started, but cranked really slowly. >What should I do? I konw the first place to start is to clean the >corrosion off the terminals because that’s what the mechanic told me. I >know it’s a relatively simply procedure, but I have no idea what to do. >I know you’re supposed to use baking soda and water to neutralize the >sulfuric acid, but is it safe to just pour it on the terminals like >that? I also know you’re supposed to disconnect the terminals and use a >wire brush to clean it off. >So if someone could give me the exact step-by-step procedure I think I >can handle it. Or if you think it’s something other than just terminal >corrosion, please feel free to say so. BTW-the truck is a 1994 Explorer >with about 50k miles and the battery has never been changed. >Thanks so much.

Bill

Response:

Hey Mark, Chiltons is a pretty good manual, and haynes is too, they show pictures and stuff, but also, no offense, you might check out "Car repair for Dummies" i bought it for my wife and at least she knows what some things are, and doesnt get gypped for things like Hupcap Gaskets and Muffler bearings (haha) Wes

Response:

I would like to know if after three weeks with my A3 parked in the garage (without moving) the battery could be discharge due to small comsumption of electronic devices of the car. Thanks — Manuel Escolar

Response:

> I would like to know if after three weeks with my A3 parked in > the garage (without moving) the battery could be discharge due > to small comsumption of electronic devices of the car.

This is more of an alt.autos.non-specific enquiry… In theory, yes. The condition of your battery (initial charge and general health) affects whether it is serious. For three weeks, I’d be wondering whether to disconnect the battery before laying up the car (although that will lead to other problems, of resetting things, when you reconnect; others will have to advise you there). Lead-acid cells tend to be damaged by being left discharged for long. BTW, don’t be tempted to leave the battery connected to a trickle charger during the lay-up. Not safe. — Andrew Stephenson

Response:

Without knowing the details, I would say no. If it was very cold, and your battery was old, then maybe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I would like to know if after three weeks with my A3 parked in the garage > (without moving) the battery could be discharge due to small comsumption of > electronic devices of the car. > Thanks > — > Manuel Escolar

Response:

I have a 2000 Olds Intrigue that sits in the driveway for weeks at a time in the winter, because I’m driving my Audis instead. Likewise, my Audis tend to sit around a lot in the summer. I also have an antique Cadillac that sits for long periods of time, though it has dual batteries and I disconnect them both when it goes into storage — so it probably doesn’t really count in this discussion. I’ve honestly never really kept close track of just how long each of these vehicles sits between being run, but I’d be willing to bet that every one of them has sat for more than three weeks at one time or another. And I’ve never had a problem with any of these cars’ batteries running down while parked. As long as your electrical system is functioning properly (no shorts or stuck-on seat warmers or interior lights, etc.) and your battery is in good shape, you should be able to let it sit for a good long time without concern of running down the battery. If your car’s battery won’t last three weeks, I’d be looking into it. Re The trickle-charger: Isn’t there such a thing as a "battery maintainer" that’s designed specifically to be left hooked up to Pb-acid batteries for extended periods of time? I’ve never used one myself, but I’ve heard of them and am would probably use one if a situation required it. That is, unless there’s some reason that I shouldn’t… – Greg Reed -1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 9-passenger sedan -1989 Audi 200 TQ Sedan -1990 Audi V8Q -2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue -2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I would like to know if after three weeks with my A3 parked in > the garage (without moving) the battery could be discharge due > to small comsumption of electronic devices of the car. > This is more of an alt.autos.non-specific enquiry… > In theory, yes. The condition of your battery (initial charge > and general health) affects whether it is serious. For three > weeks, I’d be wondering whether to disconnect the battery before > laying up the car (although that will lead to other problems, of > resetting things, when you reconnect; others will have to advise > you there). Lead-acid cells tend to be damaged by being left > discharged for long. > BTW, don’t be tempted to leave the battery connected to a trickle > charger during the lay-up. Not safe. > — > Andrew Stephenson

Response:

> [...] As long as your electrical system is functioning properly (no > shorts or stuck-on seat warmers or interior lights, etc.) and your battery > is in good shape, you should be able to let it sit for a good long time > without concern of running down the battery. If your car’s battery won’t > last three weeks, I’d be looking into it.

That’s a reasonable list of provisos. How many of us can live up to them? ;-) When this came up last, I did back-of-envelope calculations, as follows (quotes from my 22nov2001 post to this NG): [...] For comparison (the only figure I have memorised), the Volvo 440’s factory alarm system draws a stated 27 mA when set. I have twice left such a vehicle parked for a month. First time, the battery was good and could start the car afterwards — just. Second time, the battery was crocked and afterwards could barely power the courtesy light. It had to be recharged before starting was possible. Soon after, it had to be replaced, as the sustained discharge state had finished it. [...] 27 mA for 21 days is a draw-down of 0.027*24*21 = 13.608 Amp-hrs. On the face of it, this is marginal cause for concern. OTOH: [...] a real-life battery rarely starts a parking period topped-up, especially if it is old and winter’s dark, cold days have been (a) diverting charging current then (b) impairing the battery’s ability to hold a charge. To that, add what starting the car then tries to pull out… Luck is going to be a big part of it. > Re The trickle-charger: Isn’t there such a thing as a "battery maintainer" > that’s designed specifically to be left hooked up to Pb-acid batteries for > extended periods of time? I’ve never used one myself, but I’ve heard of > them and am would probably use one if a situation required it. That is, > unless there’s some reason that I shouldn’t…

I’m just wary of leaving mains-powered (er, that would be "line-" in the US, yes?) electrical stuff running if I am away for weeks at a time, especially if it feeds a potentially damp area exposed to physically active wildlife. Call me cautious. Also, so much after-market kit offered in UK motor accessory shops is of cheapo design and construction, begging to be allowed to start a fire in your car/garage/house and entertain the neighbours. — Andrew Stephenson

Response:

Wiper spindle

admin — Sun, 09 May 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi Group, > Today I over tightened the nut with the spindle and it snapped, now the nut > is with the top bit came off so I can’t drive my car under this typical > weather! Just wonder if I can buy the spindle assembly on its own, and can > anyone tell me roughly how much would be the damage, please? > Or any chance I can fix it, I tried the Unibond metal glue, and it didn’t > work. > Any suggestions welcomed. > Many thanks, > ~Chris

From what I read -snapping the bolt, glue….- I can only recommend you to the dealer. Ron

Response:

> Hi Group, > Today I over tightened the nut with the spindle and it snapped, now the nut > is with the top bit came off so I can’t drive my car under this typical > weather! Just wonder if I can buy the spindle assembly on its own, and can > anyone tell me roughly how much would be the damage, please? > Or any chance I can fix it, I tried the Unibond metal glue, and it didn’t > work. > Any suggestions welcomed.

You could try euro car parts or GSF but the most lightly place is going to be a main dealer for a relatively new car or a scrap yard (Volks-Apart maybe) for a slightly older one. Is it one of the fronts or the rear one that you snapped? You may need the entire wiper linkage depending on the car and exactly what snapped. The final suggestion would be to go a bit easier from now on with a spanner.

Response:

Thanks for all your advices, I phoned the dealer today they said they got the parts for around

Inspection warning

admin — Sat, 01 May 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Hi Folks, The "In 1" warning is flashing on the trip counter. I’ve tried pressing the trip reset while turning the ignition key thing but either it’s not working or I’m not doing it right – it still flashes. The car is a late ‘95 Audi A4 1.9TDi SE in the UK. Any ideas? Dave

Response:

You can’t reset pre 98 A4’s without either a VAG.com or a VAGtool.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi Folks, > The "In 1" warning is flashing on the trip counter. I’ve tried > pressing the trip reset while turning the ignition key thing but > either it’s not working or I’m not doing it right – it still flashes. > The car is a late ‘95 Audi A4 1.9TDi SE in the UK. > Any ideas? > Dave

Response:

said: I said: > The "In 1" warning is flashing on the trip counter. >You can’t reset pre 98 A4’s without either a VAG.com or a VAGtool.

Cheers Mike. That answers that one then! Dave

Response:

Buying a 1999 Audi A4

admin — Wed, 28 Apr 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I’m looking at buying an Audi A4 and have a good deal on a 1999 model 2.8 V6 Quattro with 48,000 miles. I have read some review on Edmunds and consumer reports and am concerned about the reliability of the car. Some of these reviews say that when the car reaches 50,000 miles or 5+ years old, it starts to fall apart; other reviewers love the car and say that they’ve had no problems. Does anyone own this specific model of A4 or a similar one? Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks a lot, Kartik

Response:

> I’m looking at buying an Audi A4 and have a good deal on a 1999 model > 2.8 V6 Quattro with 48,000 miles. I have read some review on Edmunds > and consumer reports and am concerned about the reliability of the > car. Some of these reviews say that when the car reaches 50,000 miles > or 5+ years old, it starts to fall apart; other reviewers love the car > and say that they’ve had no problems. > Does anyone own this specific model of A4 or a similar one? Any > thoughts would be much appreciated. > Thanks a lot, > Kartik

I have a ‘99 A4 2.8Q. 75K miles. The radiator failed at 70K, the rear diff leaked at 60K and needed to be resealed, and the cam seals started to leak about 55K and were replaced with the timing belt and water pump($1100). The passenger seat air bag failed at 73K. That’s about it for the non-routine stuff. Despite these problems, I consider it to be a good car overall. An Audi is not a Honda, but it doesn’t drive like one either and the all wheel drive is awesome. It all depends on what’s important to you.

Response:

I had to change the water pump the first time at 199,500 km (not miles). The radiator and the quattro system has never caused any problem, especially no leak. I had to change the front shock absorbers at 210,000 km. Up to now, this Audi has been the most reliable car I ever had. — Best regards. Giovanni Tarantino Bevaix (NE) Switzerland 1997 Audi A4 2.8 Q 220,000 km (137,000 miles) 1997 BMW 535i 217,000 km (134,000 miles)

Response:

audi concert with/without bose

admin — Tue, 27 Apr 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

> Hi, > Can anyone tell me the difference between an 1998 Audi A4 Avant with > and without bose ? Will the head units be identical ? Is it just the > speakers that are different ? Are there the same number of speakers in > each system ? Is the connector/wiring going into the back of the audi > concert different ? Will there be some kind of amplifier in the car > with bose ? > Thanks > Chet

Standard audi’s have powered rear speakers, and normal front speakers Bose Audi’s have an extra set of speakers in the rear doors, they also have a different Amp, and the speakers are better quality, the head units are the same I think, all the speakers are amp powered in the Bose system where as only the rear ones are in a normal gamma/concert system Ron

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > Can anyone tell me the difference between an 1998 Audi A4 Avant with > and without bose ? Will the head units be identical ? Is it just the > speakers that are different ? Are there the same number of speakers in > each system ? Is the connector/wiring going into the back of the audi > concert different ? Will there be some kind of amplifier in the car > with bose ? > Thanks > Chet >Standard audi’s have powered rear speakers, and normal front speakers >Bose Audi’s have an extra set of speakers in the rear doors, they also have >a different Amp, and the speakers are better quality, the head units are the >same I think, all the speakers are amp powered in the Bose system where as >only the rear ones are in a normal gamma/concert system

N.A. B5 A4 sedans with Bose also gained a (modest) subwoofer…

Response:

Hi, Can anyone tell me the difference between an 1998 Audi A4 Avant with and without bose ? Will the head units be identical ? Is it just the speakers that are different ? Are there the same number of speakers in each system ? Is the connector/wiring going into the back of the audi concert different ? Will there be some kind of amplifier in the car with bose ? Thanks Chet