Autos Audis

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi Group, > Today I over tightened the nut with the spindle and it snapped, now the nut > is with the top bit came off so I can’t drive my car under this typical > weather!  Just wonder if I can buy the spindle assembly on its own, and can > anyone tell me roughly how much would be the damage, please? > Or any chance I can fix it, I tried the Unibond metal glue, and it didn’t > work. > Any suggestions welcomed. > Many thanks, > ~Chris

From what I read -snapping the bolt, glue….- I can only recommend you to the dealer. Ron

Response:

> Hi Group, > Today I over tightened the nut with the spindle and it snapped, now the nut > is with the top bit came off so I can’t drive my car under this typical > weather!  Just wonder if I can buy the spindle assembly on its own, and can > anyone tell me roughly how much would be the damage, please? > Or any chance I can fix it, I tried the Unibond metal glue, and it didn’t > work. > Any suggestions welcomed.

You could try euro car parts or GSF but the most lightly place is going to be a main dealer for a relatively new car or a scrap yard (Volks-Apart maybe) for a slightly older one. Is it one of the fronts or the rear one that you snapped? You may need the entire wiper linkage depending on the car and exactly what snapped. The final suggestion would be to go a bit easier from now on with a spanner.

Response:

Thanks for all your advices, I phoned the dealer today they said they got the parts for around

Question:

Hi, My car: AUDI 80 1.8 1990 with gas BRC SYSTEM T.100 Maybe somebody know ? What is the best way to start cold engine (start with gas or petrol, or always petrol etc…..). I hav manual ”choc-cold start”. Thanks for help,

Response:

> Hi, > My car: AUDI 80 1.8 1990 with gas BRC SYSTEM T.100 > Maybe somebody know ? > What is the best way to start cold engine (start with gas or petrol, or > always petrol etc…..). I hav manual ”choc-cold start”. > Thanks for help,

It’s usual to start with the chike on, running on petrol, and then switch to gas after letting it warm up, I think.

Response:

Question:

Hello Airbag light stays on for app. 2 min before it goes out.  Obviously there is a problem somwhere, but I dont have any idea where to start the troubleshooting

Response:

Over about four years, my 96 A4Q V6 had the same problem several times. The first time, I took it to the dealer, they said it was a bad light assembly and replaced it under warranty. The other two times, I took it to a private shop, they couldn’t find anything wrong and reset the light using their special computer tool. I figured the dealer replaced the light assembly only because they couldn’t think of anything else to do. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello > Airbag light stays on for app. 2 min before it goes out.  Obviously there is > a problem somwhere, but I dont have any idea where to start the > troubleshooting

Response:

Question:

I have an Audi 80 2.0E manual 10 years old 76K on clock I keep blowing fuses and the lights down the right side do not work.(front and back) I can’t figure it out and the bulbs are OK.  I thought it might be a relay but the fuse box/relay box does not have any relays for headlights. thanks in advance

Response:

Tom, Remove the bulbs and use a continuity meter to see which power wire has a short to ground.  I had a similar problem a couple of times in my 1980 5k – turned out to be corrosion in the turn signal light housing. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an Audi 80 2.0E manual 10 years old 76K on clock > I keep blowing fuses and the lights down the right side do not work.(front > and back) > I can’t figure it out and the bulbs are OK.  I thought it might be a relay > but the fuse box/relay box does not have any relays for headlights. > thanks in advance

Response:

My 1987 5000S used to intermittently blow fuses…due to frayed flexing harness in the trunk. Similar danger in the door flexing harnesses – pull the rubber boot and examine the harness.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tom, > Remove the bulbs and use a continuity meter to see which power wire has a > short to ground.  I had a similar problem a couple of times in my 1980 5k – > turned out to be corrosion in the turn signal light housing. > Cheers! > Steve Sears > 1987 Audi 5kTQ > 1980 Audi 5k > 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes > I have an Audi 80 2.0E manual 10 years old 76K on clock > I keep blowing fuses and the lights down the right side do not work.(front > and back) > I can’t figure it out and the bulbs are OK.  I thought it might be a relay > but the fuse box/relay box does not have any relays for headlights. > thanks in advance

Response:

Question:

Sven, As others have noted, it possibly is a head gasket leak.  My ‘87 5ktq had one, and a few other issues.  You may find this helpful: – on the head gasket issue, if any plug has a whitish deposit on it, then the coolant is leaking into the cylinder. – the leak may be intermittent – it may leak more when the car is cold, or hot. – Oil in the coolant (brown/blackish gunk in the reservoir), coolant in the oil (milky residue on dipstick) may signal head gasket leak. – try this: run the car up to operating temp, then pull the plugs and hold an inspection mirror over the plug holes -> fog = coolant leak in that cylinder. – pressure testing the coolant system may show quick oscillations, indicating cylinder pressure in the coolant system – flared radiator connections may be a sign of engine pressure in the cooling system (or an overzealous {shadetree-}mechanic tightening the hose clamp) My ‘87 was always running hot – slightly under 100C most times, etc.  I had the head gasket replaced (leaking in #5), flushed the coolant system and rad a number of times, nothing seemed to work.  I bought a nearly new Modine metal rad from the local scrapyard (it was cheap, I figured I needed a spare) and wouldn’t ya know it, the plastic OE rad blew up (bigtime!)  I put in the Modine and the car runs nearly 40C cooler on the highway – only venures into rad fan territory in stop ‘n’ go traffic.  The old rad sat in my garage for a while – I cut it up and, lo and behold, the gasket separating the coolant in/coolant out portions of the end tank was broken – ahHA!  The coolant was bypassing the radiator fins. Important point to note: If you are contemplating getting the head rebuilt, make sure they use new head bolts, not just the old ones (ask for the spare parts in a box).  The head is attached with bolts that will stretch when properly torqued.  If reused, the stretch bolts will bottom out in the threaded holes in the block and you won’t get the right clamping force on the head gasket – leading to another blown gasket.  That is what the mechanic found who replaced the gasket on my car – the bolts had their ends ground down to avoid bottoming out.  They still did on a couple and poof went the gasket.  If the car has been repaired in the past like mine was, just retorquing the bolts will not help (they’re bottomed out and won’t tighten any more). Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ – rejoining the realm of happy cars after being seriously abused by PO’s 1980 Audi 5k – always pampered 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – abused by time.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For a while the engine temperature has been too high. I’ve replaced the > temperature sending unit with no change. Now I’ve noticed that there is > always air in the system. It doesn’t matter how many times I try to > bleed it, the air always comes back. Maybe the the temperature sender > measures air temperature that is higher than the water temperature? > Where are the most probable places that air can enter the system? I > guess it should be on the low pressure side of the pump. Is it possible > that the pump itself is faulty? It is only 6 months old. > I know that there is something wrong with cylinder no4. The spark plug > is black (not oily) and there is lower compression at that cylinder > (12.5 bar, the other 14- 14.5 bar). The hot water leaves the engine > close to cylinder 4. Is it possible that the faulty cylinder creates > extra heat that will cause the higher temperature? > /Sven

Response:

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com *** > Temperature too high and air getting into the coolant system usually > indicated a blown head gasket.

… not to mention the lower compression on cylindar number 4. – Greg Reed — 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood Formal Limousine     (for sale:  http://www.dataspire.com/caddy) 1989 Audi 200 Turbo Quattro sedan 5-speed 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001 Chevy Astro AWD (wife’s) 2004 Forester 2.5XT 5-speed (coming soon!)  —–= Posted via Newsfeed.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeed.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== 100,000 Groups! – 19 Servers! – Unlimited Download! =—–

Response:

It might be possible to re-torque the head to correct a slow leak in the head gasket. Of course replacing would be the best and isn’t too difficult on these engines. Tony ‘91 100Q 5spd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Temperature too high and air getting into the coolant system usually > indicated a blown head gasket. >For a while the engine temperature has been too high. I’ve replaced the >temperature sending unit with no change. Now I’ve noticed that there is >always air in the system. It doesn’t matter how many times I try to >bleed it, the air always comes back. Maybe the the temperature sender >measures air temperature that is higher than the water temperature? >Where are the most probable places that air can enter the system? I >guess it should be on the low pressure side of the pump. Is it possible >that the pump itself is faulty? It is only 6 months old. >I know that there is something wrong with cylinder no4. The spark plug >is black (not oily) and there is lower compression at that cylinder >(12.5 bar, the other 14- 14.5 bar). The hot water leaves the engine >close to cylinder 4. Is it possible that the faulty cylinder creates >extra heat that will cause the higher temperature? >/Sven

Response:

Temperature too high and air getting into the coolant system usually indicated a blown head gasket. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > For a while the engine temperature has been too high. I’ve replaced the > temperature sending unit with no change. Now I’ve noticed that there is > always air in the system. It doesn’t matter how many times I try to > bleed it, the air always comes back. Maybe the the temperature sender > measures air temperature that is higher than the water temperature? > Where are the most probable places that air can enter the system? I > guess it should be on the low pressure side of the pump. Is it possible > that the pump itself is faulty? It is only 6 months old. > I know that there is something wrong with cylinder no4. The spark plug > is black (not oily) and there is lower compression at that cylinder > (12.5 bar, the other 14- 14.5 bar). The hot water leaves the engine > close to cylinder 4. Is it possible that the faulty cylinder creates > extra heat that will cause the higher temperature? > /Sven

Response:

For a while the engine temperature has been too high. I’ve replaced the temperature sending unit with no change. Now I’ve noticed that there is always air in the system. It doesn’t matter how many times I try to bleed it, the air always comes back. Maybe the the temperature sender measures air temperature that is higher than the water temperature? Where are the most probable places that air can enter the system? I guess it should be on the low pressure side of the pump. Is it possible that the pump itself is faulty? It is only 6 months old. I know that there is something wrong with cylinder no4. The spark plug is black (not oily) and there is lower compression at that cylinder (12.5 bar, the other 14- 14.5 bar). The hot water leaves the engine close to cylinder 4. Is it possible that the faulty cylinder creates extra heat that will cause the higher temperature? /Sven

Response:

Question:

I have a strange problem with my A80 and I hope someone can give me an idea as what is wrong. Driving normally the car is fine. If I am driving down a motorway/autobahn, if I come to a traffic jam where the traffic is stopped or crawling, after around 5 minutes my engine over heats, and a lot of hot water is ejected from the radiator cap. Both of the cooling fans at this time are fully working. The is causing me a lot of trouble as in UK traffic jams are a common occurance. Thanks MF

Response:

Sounds a bit like what use to happen to my old Audi 80 coupe, eventually found that someone had repaired a water hose by fitting a piece of tube inside the pipe which reduced the bore size and caused loads of back pressure. Maybe you have a blockage somewhere thats causing back pressure. Liam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a strange problem with my A80 and I hope someone can give me an > idea as what is wrong. > Driving normally the car is fine. If I am driving down a > motorway/autobahn, if I come to a traffic jam where the traffic is > stopped or crawling, after around 5 minutes my engine over heats, and > a lot of hot water is ejected from the radiator cap. Both of the > cooling fans at this time are fully working. > The is causing me a lot of trouble as in UK traffic jams are a common > occurance. > Thanks > MF

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Sounds a bit like what use to happen to my old Audi 80 coupe, eventually > found that someone had repaired a water hose by fitting a piece of tube > inside the pipe which reduced the bore size and caused loads of back > pressure. > Maybe you have a blockage somewhere thats causing back pressure. > Liam > I have a strange problem with my A80 and I hope someone can give me an > idea as what is wrong. > Driving normally the car is fine. If I am driving down a > motorway/autobahn, if I come to a traffic jam where the traffic is > stopped or crawling, after around 5 minutes my engine over heats, and > a lot of hot water is ejected from the radiator cap. Both of the > cooling fans at this time are fully working. > The is causing me a lot of trouble as in UK traffic jams are a common > occurance.

Could also be the thermostat stuck in partly open position. regards Rune S.

Response:

Question:

Does anyone have 2 headlight from an RS2 to sell?????

Response:

I’ve seen these advertised on the German e-Bay. Search www.ebay.de with "audi rs2 scheinwerfer" and ask if they’d ship to Portugal – their English is usually quite good. Tony Ottawa

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone have 2 headlight from an RS2 to sell?????

Response:

Question:

SWMBO has an Audi 80 (‘89) which does not like the cold weather. It starts & runs fine (albeit with a low tickover) on cold mornings. But after about 10 miles it starts to miss and then dies. If we then wait about two minutes and re-start, all is hunky-dory again. Fuel consumption seems a little higher than normal when it is doing this but this may be a subjective impression. Come evening, when the wether is slightly warmer, the car starts & runs fine. In warmer weather there is no problem at all. Warm idle is about 900 rpm. The car has manual choke. I suspect the temp sensor in the air filter or the vac unit on the inlet but does anyone else have any ideas before I go in there ? TNX John Warr

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> SWMBO has an Audi 80 (‘89) which does not like the cold weather. It > starts & runs fine (albeit with a low tickover) on cold mornings. But > after about 10 miles it starts to miss and then dies. If we then wait > about two minutes and re-start, all is hunky-dory again. Fuel > consumption seems a little higher than normal when it is doing this > but this may be a subjective impression. > Come evening, when the wether is slightly warmer, the car starts & > runs fine. > In warmer weather there is no problem at all. > Warm idle is about 900 rpm. The car has manual choke. > I suspect the temp sensor in the air filter or the vac unit on the > inlet but does anyone else have any ideas before I go in there ?

Carburettor icing? — Peter Bell  (Note Spamtrap – To reply, replace ‘invalid’ with ‘bellfamily’)

Response:

You are probably right about the temp sensor or vacuum unit. I guess it is carb icing because of too cold air to the carburettor. I have had the same problem with my ‘86 for several years. I have tried to replace the temp sensor, but that didin’t help. My way of fixing the problem is to open the little door in the air filter that is supposed to be opened by the vacuum. I have put a little stick in there to keep it open during winter. In april it is time to remove it again. /Sven – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >SWMBO has an Audi 80 (‘89) which does not like the cold weather. It >starts & runs fine (albeit with a low tickover) on cold mornings. But >after about 10 miles it starts to miss and then dies. If we then wait >about two minutes and re-start, all is hunky-dory again. Fuel >consumption seems a little higher than normal when it is doing this >but this may be a subjective impression. >Come evening, when the wether is slightly warmer, the car starts & >runs fine. >In warmer weather there is no problem at all. >Warm idle is about 900 rpm. The car has manual choke. >I suspect the temp sensor in the air filter or the vac unit on the >inlet but does anyone else have any ideas before I go in there ? >TNX >John Warr

Response:

Question:

The fan motor may have siezed bearings and that load caused the fusable link to blow out (if you have one). If you don’t it probably fried the wiring and caused the smell and alternator loading. It happens often when miles get up there. Tony ‘91 100Q 5spd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>>>> For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature >>>>>>> gauge is between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The >>>>>>> temperature quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was >>>>>>> the thermostat and planned to replace it this weekend. This >>>>>>> morning when I started the car the generator and the cooling >>>>>>> warning lamps did not go out. The generator belt was not broken, >>>>>>> though a little slack. I tightened the belt and after that the >>>>>>> warning lamps did go out. After driving about 15 km the >>>>>>> generator warning lamp suddenly started blinking. At the same >>>>>>> time the temperature dropped and I had a vague feeling that >>>>>>> something smelled like it was burned. I stopped the car and >>>>>>> checked the generator belt. It was still tight. Aftar a couple >>>>>>> of minutes I decided to drive home again. Now the temperature >>>>>>> was between 85C and 90 C. When I came home I noticed that one >>>>>>> fuse was blown, but it was just a small fuse for the parking >>>>>>> light, so I don’t think it is related to the other problems. >>>>>>> Anyone have an idea of what can be wrong? The engine is quite >>>>>>> old (over 560 000 km) so maybe it has done its duty and should >>>>>>> be replaced? >>>>>>> Thanks >>>>>>> /Sven >>>>>> When was the last time you changed the water pump? >>>>>> Cheers, >>>>>> C >>>>> Both the water pump and the radiator was replaced less than 6 >>>>> months ago. >>>> Is the radiator fan coming on? >>>> cheers, >>>> C >>> I can’t recall hearing the fan for a while. I haven’t checked if it >>> is working. >> Start it up and let the car idle while parked.  When it reaches >> normal operating temperature, the fan should come on.  If it doesn’t, >> there’s your problem.  If that’s the case you then move on to >> checking the fan relay and the fan motor itself. >> Cheers, >> C > I thought the fan was not used under normal conditions. As long as I > have had the car the fan has just been used when the engine was hotter > than normal like in heavy city traffic. > No, the fan should definitely come on when the car is idling after 5-10 > minutes since there is no airflow through the radiator (when the car is > not moving) without it.  I suspect this is your problem and explains why > the engine runs hot in city traffic. > Cheers, > C

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>>> For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature >>>>>> gauge is between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The >>>>>> temperature quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was the >>>>>> thermostat and planned to replace it this weekend. This morning >>>>>> when I started the car the generator and the cooling warning >>>>>> lamps did not go out. The generator belt was not broken, though a >>>>>> little slack. I tightened the belt and after that the warning >>>>>> lamps did go out. After driving about 15 km the generator warning >>>>>> lamp suddenly started blinking. At the same time the temperature >>>>>> dropped and I had a vague feeling that something smelled like it >>>>>> was burned. I stopped the car and checked the generator belt. It >>>>>> was still tight. Aftar a couple of minutes I decided to drive >>>>>> home again. Now the temperature was between 85C and 90 C. When I >>>>>> came home I noticed that one fuse was blown, but it was just a >>>>>> small fuse for the parking light, so I don’t think it is related >>>>>> to the other problems. Anyone have an idea of what can be wrong? >>>>>> The engine is quite old (over 560 000 km) so maybe it has done >>>>>> its duty and should be replaced? >>>>>> Thanks >>>>>> /Sven >>>>> When was the last time you changed the water pump? >>>>> Cheers, >>>>> C >>>> Both the water pump and the radiator was replaced less than 6 >>>> months ago. >>> Is the radiator fan coming on? >>> cheers, >>> C >> I can’t recall hearing the fan for a while. I haven’t checked if it >> is working. > Start it up and let the car idle while parked.  When it reaches normal > operating temperature, the fan should come on.  If it doesn’t, there’s > your problem.  If that’s the case you then move on to checking the fan > relay and the fan motor itself. > Cheers, > C > I thought the fan was not used under normal conditions. As long as I > have had the car the fan has just been used when the engine was hotter > than normal like in heavy city traffic.

No, the fan should definitely come on when the car is idling after 5-10 minutes since there is no airflow through the radiator (when the car is not moving) without it.  I suspect this is your problem and explains why the engine runs hot in city traffic. Cheers, C

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>> For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature >>>>> gauge is between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The >>>>> temperature quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was the >>>>> thermostat and planned to replace it this weekend. This morning >>>>> when I started the car the generator and the cooling warning >>>>> lamps did not go out. The generator belt was not broken, though a >>>>> little slack. I tightened the belt and after that the warning >>>>> lamps did go out. After driving about 15 km the generator warning >>>>> lamp suddenly started blinking. At the same time the temperature >>>>> dropped and I had a vague feeling that something smelled like it >>>>> was burned. I stopped the car and checked the generator belt. It >>>>> was still tight. Aftar a couple of minutes I decided to drive >>>>> home again. Now the temperature was between 85C and 90 C. When I >>>>> came home I noticed that one fuse was blown, but it was just a >>>>> small fuse for the parking light, so I don’t think it is related >>>>> to the other problems. Anyone have an idea of what can be wrong? >>>>> The engine is quite old (over 560 000 km) so maybe it has done >>>>> its duty and should be replaced? >>>>> Thanks >>>>> /Sven >>>> When was the last time you changed the water pump? >>>> Cheers, >>>> C >>> Both the water pump and the radiator was replaced less than 6 >>> months ago. >> Is the radiator fan coming on? >> cheers, >> C > I can’t recall hearing the fan for a while. I haven’t checked if it > is working. > Start it up and let the car idle while parked.  When it reaches normal > operating temperature, the fan should come on.  If it doesn’t, there’s > your problem.  If that’s the case you then move on to checking the fan > relay and the fan motor itself. > Cheers, > C

I thought the fan was not used under normal conditions. As long as I have had the car the fan has just been used when the engine was hotter than normal like in heavy city traffic. /Sven

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>> For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature >>>> gauge is between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The >>>> temperature quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was the >>>> thermostat and planned to replace it this weekend. This morning >>>> when I started the car the generator and the cooling warning lamps >>>> did not go out. The generator belt was not broken, though a little >>>> slack. I tightened the belt and after that the warning lamps did go >>>> out. After driving about 15 km the generator warning lamp suddenly >>>> started blinking. At the same time the temperature dropped and I >>>> had a vague feeling that something smelled like it was burned. I >>>> stopped the car and checked the generator belt. It was still tight. >>>> Aftar a couple of minutes I decided to drive home again. Now the >>>> temperature was between 85C and 90 C. When I came home I noticed >>>> that one fuse was blown, but it was just a small fuse for the >>>> parking light, so I don’t think it is related to the other >>>> problems. Anyone have an idea of what can be wrong? The engine is >>>> quite old (over 560 000 km) so maybe it has done its duty and >>>> should be replaced? >>>> Thanks >>>> /Sven >>> When was the last time you changed the water pump? >>> Cheers, >>> C >> Both the water pump and the radiator was replaced less than 6 months >> ago. > Is the radiator fan coming on? > cheers, > C > I can’t recall hearing the fan for a while. I haven’t checked if it is > working.

Start it up and let the car idle while parked.  When it reaches normal operating temperature, the fan should come on.  If it doesn’t, there’s your problem.  If that’s the case you then move on to checking the fan relay and the fan motor itself. Cheers, C

Response:

For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature gauge is between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The temperature quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was the thermostat and planned to replace it this weekend. This morning when I started the car the generator and the cooling warning lamps did not go out. The generator belt was not broken, though a little slack. I tightened the belt and after that the warning lamps did go out. After driving about 15 km the generator warning lamp suddenly started blinking. At the same time the temperature dropped and I had a vague feeling that something smelled like it was burned. I stopped the car and checked the generator belt. It was still tight. Aftar a couple of minutes I decided to drive home again. Now the temperature was between 85C and 90 C. When I came home I noticed that one fuse was blown, but it was just a small fuse for the parking light, so I don’t think it is related to the other problems. Anyone have an idea of what can be wrong? The engine is quite old (over 560 000 km) so maybe it has done its duty and should be replaced? Thanks /Sven

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature gauge is > between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The temperature > quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was the thermostat and > planned to replace it this weekend. This morning when I started the car > the generator and the cooling warning lamps did not go out. The > generator belt was not broken, though a little slack. I tightened the > belt and after that the warning lamps did go out. After driving about 15 > km the generator warning lamp suddenly started blinking. At the same > time the temperature dropped and I had a vague feeling that something > smelled like it was burned. I stopped the car and checked the generator > belt. It was still tight. Aftar a couple of minutes I decided to drive > home again. Now the temperature was between 85C and 90 C. When I came > home I noticed that one fuse was blown, but it was just a small fuse for > the parking light, so I don’t think it is related to the other problems. > Anyone have an idea of what can be wrong? The engine is quite old (over > 560 000 km) so maybe it has done its duty and should be replaced? > Thanks > /Sven

When was the last time you changed the water pump? Cheers, C

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature gauge > is between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The temperature > quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was the thermostat and > planned to replace it this weekend. This morning when I started the > car the generator and the cooling warning lamps did not go out. The > generator belt was not broken, though a little slack. I tightened the > belt and after that the warning lamps did go out. After driving about > 15 km the generator warning lamp suddenly started blinking. At the > same time the temperature dropped and I had a vague feeling that > something smelled like it was burned. I stopped the car and checked > the generator belt. It was still tight. Aftar a couple of minutes I > decided to drive home again. Now the temperature was between 85C and > 90 C. When I came home I noticed that one fuse was blown, but it was > just a small fuse for the parking light, so I don’t think it is > related to the other problems. Anyone have an idea of what can be > wrong? The engine is quite old (over 560 000 km) so maybe it has done > its duty and should be replaced? > Thanks > /Sven > When was the last time you changed the water pump? > Cheers, > C

Both the water pump and the radiator was replaced less than 6 months ago. /Sven

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature gauge >> is between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The temperature >> quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was the thermostat and >> planned to replace it this weekend. This morning when I started the >> car the generator and the cooling warning lamps did not go out. The >> generator belt was not broken, though a little slack. I tightened the >> belt and after that the warning lamps did go out. After driving about >> 15 km the generator warning lamp suddenly started blinking. At the >> same time the temperature dropped and I had a vague feeling that >> something smelled like it was burned. I stopped the car and checked >> the generator belt. It was still tight. Aftar a couple of minutes I >> decided to drive home again. Now the temperature was between 85C and >> 90 C. When I came home I noticed that one fuse was blown, but it was >> just a small fuse for the parking light, so I don’t think it is >> related to the other problems. Anyone have an idea of what can be >> wrong? The engine is quite old (over 560 000 km) so maybe it has done >> its duty and should be replaced? >> Thanks >> /Sven > When was the last time you changed the water pump? > Cheers, > C > Both the water pump and the radiator was replaced less than 6 months ago.

Is the radiator fan coming on? cheers, C

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> For a while my Audi has been overheating a bit. The temperature >>> gauge is between 95C an 100C. It is normally stable at 90C. The >>> temperature quickly goes up in city traffic. I thought it was the >>> thermostat and planned to replace it this weekend. This morning >>> when I started the car the generator and the cooling warning lamps >>> did not go out. The generator belt was not broken, though a little >>> slack. I tightened the belt and after that the warning lamps did go >>> out. After driving about 15 km the generator warning lamp suddenly >>> started blinking. At the same time the temperature dropped and I >>> had a vague feeling that something smelled like it was burned. I >>> stopped the car and checked the generator belt. It was still tight. >>> Aftar a couple of minutes I decided to drive home again. Now the >>> temperature was between 85C and 90 C. When I came home I noticed >>> that one fuse was blown, but it was just a small fuse for the >>> parking light, so I don’t think it is related to the other >>> problems. Anyone have an idea of what can be wrong? The engine is >>> quite old (over 560 000 km) so maybe it has done its duty and >>> should be replaced? >>> Thanks >>> /Sven >> When was the last time you changed the water pump? >> Cheers, >> C > Both the water pump and the radiator was replaced less than 6 months > ago. > Is the radiator fan coming on? > cheers, > C

I can’t recall hearing the fan for a while. I haven’t checked if it is working. /Sven

Response:

Question:

Hello Yoda I found the box !! I paid 60 Euro for used one, now my Tdi works perfectly again, thanks a lot for your help !! Tj – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ > http://www.vagparts.com/ > http://www.4ringspares.co.uk/    (used parts) > Hi Tj, >   You could try these, but get the Audi part number from the old electronic > box. > yoda > Thanks a lot Yoda, > unfortunately the hair drier was already used….  :-( > any web where I can find used box?? > thanks again > Tj > > Completely dry the box , You could use a hair dryer. If this fails then > a > > new or used box is the next step, > > Regards > > Yoda > > > Hello > > > Water poured onto the electronic box situated under the floor of the > boot, > > > right side.  There are 3 connections:  pink, black and beige. Engine > runs > > > with difficulty (injection cuts) if 3 connections are plugged, > > > disconnecting the pink one the engine is perfect but alarm does not > work, > > > and central locking door system does not work… > > > Any help available?  Should I change the electronic box? > > > Thanks for any commets !!! > > > Greetings from Spain. > > > Tj

Response:

Hi Yoda many thanks for the info I will check the webs. Rgda Tj – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ > http://www.vagparts.com/ > http://www.4ringspares.co.uk/    (used parts) > Hi Tj, >   You could try these, but get the Audi part number from the old electronic > box. > yoda > Thanks a lot Yoda, > unfortunately the hair drier was already used….  :-( > any web where I can find used box?? > thanks again > Tj > > Completely dry the box , You could use a hair dryer. If this fails then > a > > new or used box is the next step, > > Regards > > Yoda > > > Hello > > > Water poured onto the electronic box situated under the floor of the > boot, > > > right side.  There are 3 connections:  pink, black and beige. Engine > runs > > > with difficulty (injection cuts) if 3 connections are plugged, > > > disconnecting the pink one the engine is perfect but alarm does not > work, > > > and central locking door system does not work… > > > Any help available?  Should I change the electronic box? > > > Thanks for any commets !!! > > > Greetings from Spain. > > > Tj

Response:

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ http://www.vagparts.com/ http://www.4ringspares.co.uk/    (used parts) Hi Tj,   You could try these, but get the Audi part number from the old electronic box. yoda – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks a lot Yoda, > unfortunately the hair drier was already used….  :-( > any web where I can find used box?? > thanks again > Tj > Completely dry the box , You could use a hair dryer. If this fails then a > new or used box is the next step, > Regards > Yoda > > Hello > > Water poured onto the electronic box situated under the floor of the > boot, > > right side.  There are 3 connections:  pink, black and beige.  Engine > runs > > with difficulty (injection cuts) if 3 connections are plugged, > > disconnecting the pink one the engine is perfect but alarm does not > work, > > and central locking door system does not work… > > Any help available?  Should I change the electronic box? > > Thanks for any commets !!! > > Greetings from Spain. > > Tj

Response:

Hello Water poured onto the electronic box situated under the floor of the boot, right side.  There are 3 connections:  pink, black and beige.  Engine runs with difficulty (injection cuts) if 3 connections are plugged, disconnecting the pink one the engine is perfect but alarm does not work, and central locking door system does not work… Any help available?  Should I change the electronic box? Thanks for any commets !!! Greetings from Spain. Tj

Response:

Completely dry the box , You could use a hair dryer. If this fails then a new or used box is the next step, Regards Yoda

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello > Water poured onto the electronic box situated under the floor of the boot, > right side.  There are 3 connections:  pink, black and beige.  Engine runs > with difficulty (injection cuts) if 3 connections are plugged, > disconnecting the pink one the engine is perfect but alarm does not work, > and central locking door system does not work… > Any help available?  Should I change the electronic box? > Thanks for any commets !!! > Greetings from Spain. > Tj

Response:

Thanks a lot Yoda, unfortunately the hair drier was already used….  :-( any web where I can find used box?? thanks again Tj – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Completely dry the box , You could use a hair dryer. If this fails then a > new or used box is the next step, > Regards > Yoda > Hello > Water poured onto the electronic box situated under the floor of the boot, > right side.  There are 3 connections:  pink, black and beige.  Engine runs > with difficulty (injection cuts) if 3 connections are plugged, > disconnecting the pink one the engine is perfect but alarm does not work, > and central locking door system does not work… > Any help available?  Should I change the electronic box? > Thanks for any commets !!! > Greetings from Spain. > Tj

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