Question:
On 2-26 I placed a want ad in AudiWorld Classifieds for an S4 seat. I was contacted by
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Tag: Audi PartsQuestion:
Hi, I would like your opinions on the price i could get for my 1993 S4…..presently it sits in my yard with a seized engine block do to a return oil line comming loose between the oil cooler and engine….. Aside from the fact that it doesn’t run, the rest of the car is in top shape and in working order, it’s red has mags, 3" exhaust and a mp3 player, included also are fuel ratio, vacum, and turbo temp gauges! What could i possibly get for it in present condition? How much to have it fixed? Is a rebuild an option, or do i need to find another engine? All comments or sugestions would be appreciated! Thanks in advance! JFB
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -JFB writes: >I would like your opinions on the price i could get for my 1993 >S4…..presently it sits in my yard with a seized engine block do to a >return oil line comming loose between the oil cooler and engine….. >Aside from the fact that it doesn’t run, the rest of the car is in top >shape and in working order, it’s red has mags, 3" exhaust and a mp3 >player, included also are fuel ratio, vacum, and turbo temp gauges! >What could i possibly get for it in present condition? >How much to have it fixed? Is a rebuild an option, or do i need to find >another engine? >All comments or sugestions would be appreciated! >Thanks in advance!
I had a ‘94 S4 (basically the same car). One night in western Massachusetts, I hit a deer. I was going about 65 when the collision occured. There wasn’t much sheet metal damage – I could have driven it home – but the engine had eaten all 20 valves. The collision caused the cam belt to break and bent the cam shaft. The original estimate was $2000 to fix everything. Then they found the valves needed to be replace, and at $100+/valve, the expenses started to go up. Then the bent cam shaft was discovered *after* the new valves were put in and the car was started. Bottom line, the final bill was $22,000. Soooo, I’m willing to bet that a rebuilt engine for it would cost a pretty penny, and that doesn’t include the turbo. However, there is a price for everything. Some one out there will buy it and fix it. I’d say it is worth about 20% of what it would sell for with a top notch engine. BTW, that ‘94 is still going strong with nary any problems. My son-in-law drove it for a couple of years and has sold it to his 20 year old son. It has about 140K miles on it, and can be seen at my site. Dave http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > I would like your opinions on the price i could get for my 1993 > S4…..presently it sits in my yard with a seized engine block do to a > return oil line comming loose between the oil cooler and engine….. > Aside from the fact that it doesn’t run, the rest of the car is in top > shape and in working order, it’s red has mags, 3" exhaust and a mp3 > player, included also are fuel ratio, vacum, and turbo temp gauges! > What could i possibly get for it in present condition? > How much to have it fixed? Is a rebuild an option, or do i need to find > another engine? > All comments or sugestions would be appreciated! > Thanks in advance! > JFB
Well, You could look into getting a used engine – swapping the engine shouldnt be TOOOOOOOO expensive, if you can find a good running one. A place I often get my used audi parts from is: www.dadsauto.com I know that they have a 1993 and a 1994 S4. Good luck, Adam
Response:
JFB, Check out the classified ads on www.s-cars.org www.car-part.com www.800allaudi.com www.ebay.com or www.ebay.de ($$$hipping) If I had the car (and was not waiting for 6 years to buy a 1995.5 S6 Avant) I’d look for a replacement engine. Like Dave said, you start rebuilding the engine and suddenly unexpected costs appear….but you’re already committed. If you get an engine, then you can sell what you have left of yours to somebody looking for one for a swap – you can find these people at www.audifans.com and let them deal with the rebuild (there’s a fair market for 3B/AAN engines for transplant into older Audis) Of course…..if you’re _giving_ it away….DIBS!!!! (hey, nothing asked….nothing gained) Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I would like your opinions on the price i could get for my 1993 > S4…..presently it sits in my yard with a seized engine block do to a > return oil line comming loose between the oil cooler and engine….. > Aside from the fact that it doesn’t run, the rest of the car is in top > shape and in working order, it’s red has mags, 3" exhaust and a mp3 > player, included also are fuel ratio, vacum, and turbo temp gauges! > What could i possibly get for it in present condition? > How much to have it fixed? Is a rebuild an option, or do i need to find > another engine? > All comments or sugestions would be appreciated! > Thanks in advance! > JFB
Response:
Thanks Steve, Would you happen to know about how much $$$ i’m looking at for a used one? And how many man hours to swap it in? I really have a dilemma on my hands, and I need to check all my options… Thanks again, JFB – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > JFB, > Check out the classified ads on www.s-cars.org www.car-part.com > www.800allaudi.com www.ebay.com or www.ebay.de ($$$hipping) > If I had the car (and was not waiting for 6 years to buy a 1995.5 S6 Avant) > I’d look for a replacement engine. Like Dave said, you start rebuilding the > engine and suddenly unexpected costs appear….but you’re already committed. > If you get an engine, then you can sell what you have left of yours to > somebody looking for one for a swap – you can find these people at > www.audifans.com and let them deal with the rebuild (there’s a fair market > for 3B/AAN engines for transplant into older Audis) > Of course…..if you’re _giving_ it away….DIBS!!!! (hey, nothing > asked….nothing gained) > Cheers! > Steve Sears > 1987 Audi 5kTQ > 1980 Audi 5k > 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
Response:
Hi JFB I did a quick google and found http://www.s-cars.org/features/Insurance/Parting/AAN/aan.html Tony Ottawa
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks Steve, > Would you happen to know about how much $$$ i’m looking at for a used > one? And how many man hours to swap it in? > I really have a dilemma on my hands, and I need to check all my options… > Thanks again, > JFB > JFB, > Check out the classified ads on www.s-cars.org www.car-part.com > www.800allaudi.com www.ebay.com or www.ebay.de ($$$hipping) > If I had the car (and was not waiting for 6 years to buy a 1995.5 S6 Avant) > I’d look for a replacement engine. Like Dave said, you start rebuilding the > engine and suddenly unexpected costs appear….but you’re already committed. > If you get an engine, then you can sell what you have left of yours to > somebody looking for one for a swap – you can find these people at > www.audifans.com and let them deal with the rebuild (there’s a fair market > for 3B/AAN engines for transplant into older Audis) > Of course…..if you’re _giving_ it away….DIBS!!!! (hey, nothing > asked….nothing gained) > Cheers! > Steve Sears > 1987 Audi 5kTQ > 1980 Audi 5k > 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
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Question:
I have a 2003 A4 that I’ve had for just over 5 months. The remote lock/unlock buttons on the key fob are dead (or somehow became unprogrammed). I opened it up and it doesn’t look like the battery is replaceable. How long is the remote lock/unlock key-fob battery supposed to last? In my last car (‘96 VW Jetta GLX), the batteries were replaceable and lasted well over three years. Thanks, Bob
Response:
The remote batteries are a warranty item. It is also possible that you lost/changed the remote’s programming.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2003 A4 that I’ve had for just over 5 months. The remote lock/unlock > buttons on the key fob are dead (or somehow became unprogrammed). I opened it up > and it doesn’t look like the battery is replaceable. > How long is the remote lock/unlock key-fob battery supposed to last? In my last car > (‘96 VW Jetta GLX), the batteries were replaceable and lasted well over three years. > Thanks, > Bob
Response:
Bob, Battery current leak is a well known issue, though your dealer may be "programmed" not to admit it. Use reprogramming procedure in your manual after changing the battery. It really works if the battery is not stone cold dead. Though it doesn’t look easily replaceable, just pry up the upper half with your finger nail after you separate the two halves of the fob carefully with a small screwdriver . It will pop off, though it looks like it won’t pop apart, it will. This is also described in your manual. Call your dealer and tell them to ORDER a new fob before you ever waste your precious time going to the dealership–tell them you have replaced the battery several times and the battery repeatedly dies in a few weeks/months. This way they cannot deny a defective fob. Otherwise they will run you through the ludicrous charade of changing the battery for you under warranty several times until YOU finally figure out and then "convince" them the fob is defective, even though they know the issue right up front. How do I know? I got three remotes with a new 2003 A4 (I paid for an extra). All defective with battery drain issue within a few months. Fought for months convincing them it’s not "normal" for the battery to last so short a time. Three new one’s after much back and forth, two of which are defective again. Still working on two new one’s 13 months into ownership. This also will NOT be the first Audi part I had replaced with an IDENTICALLY DEFECTIVE but still somehow BRAND NEW part !!! Best luck to you..I guarantee you if you take my advice you’ll save tons of time and aggravation. This is based on my experience at the most "stellar" Audi shop in all the Milky Way, Inskip Audi of Warwick, RI. Call them up and tell them you love them yourself toll-free at (866) 285-9499. Ask them if there is a "know issue" with recent remotes, and see what they say. Don’t forget to visit them at http://www.inskipaudi.com/ DFE
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2003 A4 that I’ve had for just over 5 months. The remote lock/unlock > buttons on the key fob are dead (or somehow became unprogrammed). I opened it up > and it doesn’t look like the battery is replaceable. > How long is the remote lock/unlock key-fob battery supposed to last? In my last car > (‘96 VW Jetta GLX), the batteries were replaceable and lasted well over three years. > Thanks, > Bob
Response:
Question:
Yup, that’s it. ’89-’91 100/200 with the "diff" switch below the parking brake. Unless, of course, you yank the rear seat and cut the white/blue wire. it’s the speed signal. The factory decided that the diff unlocks and re-engages the ABS when you hit around 15Mph. Cut the wire, and she stays locked until you unlock it. If you’re horking through the goop, the spinning wheels can easily hit 15. With the Torsen centre, it’s just as locked as the ‘87 with the manual locking knob. ’Course, nothing beats the V8 with Torsen rear and fully locked, clutched centre for pure get up and go. JPF – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Snip<<
Response:
My ‘91 100q spd automatically disengages the center lock when speed exceeds 15 mph. A friend had the ‘89 tq and I am quite sure it was the same. (Several Audis later he just got his ‘04 S4 4.2 V8 / 6 speed … now that IS a car!!) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Still, am I mistaken in thinking that the ‘89 (like the ‘90 200TQ) > diff lock (rear, only, IIRC; while the center is Torsen) > *automatically disengages* at low speed? I have no doubt the ‘87 > might not have this feature, as my ‘86 4KQ did not nor did my dad’s > ‘87 100Q; but I thought the 200 got it with the ‘89 redesign. > — > C.R. Krieger > Been there; done that
Response:
My ‘89 200 TQ is the same as well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My ‘91 100q spd automatically disengages the center lock when speed > exceeds 15 mph. A friend had the ‘89 tq and I am quite sure it was the > same. (Several Audis later he just got his ‘04 S4 4.2 V8 / 6 speed … > now that IS a car!!) > Still, am I mistaken in thinking that the ‘89 (like the ‘90 200TQ) > diff lock (rear, only, IIRC; while the center is Torsen) > *automatically disengages* at low speed? I have no doubt the ‘87 > might not have this feature, as my ‘86 4KQ did not nor did my dad’s > ‘87 100Q; but I thought the 200 got it with the ‘89 redesign. > — > C.R. Krieger > Been there; done that
Response:
> Hey Steve, did you lock either of the differentials when you drove > around in the message you posted earlier? I’m a little worried about > locking the center dif and doing some damage if I need to turn too > sharply at any real speed.
I am not S.S., but I can tell you with assurance that you should *never* lock the diff when there is any significant traction. If your ‘89 is the same system as my ‘90TQ (I believe it is.), the lock only functions up to about 15 mph in any event. It is just enough to get you moving under the worst traction conditions and it then automatically reverts to its usual ‘open’ settings, retaining AWD at all times. The earlier Quattros had manually-controlled center and center/rear diff locks that could be left engaged all the time if you were dumb enough to do so. It would wreak havoc on the tires, but I’ve never heard of a driveline failure from it. The Quattro drivetrains are remarkably durable but it’s still a good idea not to abuse them. In years of ownership in Wisconsin, I’ve only seriously switched the diff lock on a handful of times (the BMW club ice driving school doesn’t count) and even then had only marginal success. The reason is simple: most of the time when you manage to get a Quattro stuck in the snow, it’s not because of the surface; it’s the depth of the snow – ‘bellypanning’ the car. If the wheels aren’t *touching* the ground with enough force, it doesn’t matter how many are locked. Always remember to shovel deep snow from under the *center* of the car and *leave it* under the wheels. When you’re done memorizing that, you need to learn how to trim previous posts when replying … — C.R. Krieger Been there; done that.
Response:
Hi AMR, (Sorry – I’m on a full time site and haven’t been in the office of late) Yes, I had the diffs locked – I know, much to the chagrin of CR – I usually lock the center in lousy weather on the highway – rain storms, snow, etc. – but take it off on the slower stuff, street corners are no fun with the center locked – and brutal with both center and rear ("Hey, what’s wrong with my car???? oooooh, yeah. clickclick."). In talking at our local Audi pub night – one of the guys was talking to (I think) Sprongl about track racing and locking the diffs – he said that he used to lock all the diffs on the track – dry, wet, whatever the weather (of course, tires be darned – it’s a track car and the tires get replaced regularly). That day I did most of my driving with all 4 locked – of course in the corners I was spinning bigtime – but I meant to do that – It was a blast. To prepare for winter, I usually take the car to the local grocery store when we have our first real snowfall and do about a half hour of slides, spins, etc. (entertain the bored cashiers…) BTW, the ‘87 will disengage the ABS when the diffs are locked, but hey, the ABS doesn’t work on my car anyway. On the other stuff – http://www.homestead.com/Ben_Swann/boostin.html – there ya go. Cheers! — Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ – qlcc in, V8 taillights on, eurolights soon 1980 Audi 5k – um, does a Turbo Chin Spoiler count as a performance upgrade? 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – with Hi-Performance seat covers.
Response:
> Hi AMR, > I usually > lock the center in lousy weather on the highway – rain storms, snow, etc. – > but take it off on the slower stuff, street corners are no fun with the > center locked – and brutal with both center and rear ("Hey, what’s wrong > with my car???? oooooh, yeah. clickclick.").
Actually, in crappy conditions, I used to lock the center diff on my old 4000Q as a way of getting some cheap ABS benefits. It was truly rare when I bothered to lock the rear as well and I normally had to shovel the damn thing out anyway. >:^( > In talking at our local Audi > pub night – one of the guys was talking to (I think) Sprongl about track > racing and locking the diffs – he said that he used to lock all the diffs on > the track – dry, wet, whatever the weather (of course, tires be darned – > it’s a track car and the tires get replaced regularly).
When you’ve got enough power to spin a wheel if the diffs are unlocked, then it’s perfectly alright to lock them. I’d like to know what that feels like … ;^) Still, am I mistaken in thinking that the ‘89 (like the ‘90 200TQ) diff lock (rear, only, IIRC; while the center is Torsen) *automatically disengages* at low speed? I have no doubt the ‘87 might not have this feature, as my ‘86 4KQ did not nor did my dad’s ‘87 100Q; but I thought the 200 got it with the ‘89 redesign. — C.R. Krieger Been there; done that
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> In talking at our local Audi > pub night – one of the guys was talking to (I think) Sprongl about track > racing and locking the diffs – he said that he used to lock all the diffs on > the track – dry, wet, whatever the weather (of course, tires be darned – > it’s a track car and the tires get replaced regularly). > When you’ve got enough power to spin a wheel if the diffs are > unlocked, then it’s perfectly alright to lock them. I’d like to know > what that feels like … ;^)
Yep, if it was Sprongl, then they’d be talking about the S1 that is at Shokan now – I saw it on a trailer travelling along the 401 to a rally once – I was paying more attention to the 4000q that was following the convoy, as the car on the trailer looked [shudder] like Mustang with some kind of body kit. It wasn’t until near my exit that I noticed that it was actually an S1 – darn. > Still, am I mistaken in thinking that the ‘89 (like the ‘90 200TQ) > diff lock (rear, only, IIRC; while the center is Torsen) > *automatically disengages* at low speed? I have no doubt the ‘87 > might not have this feature, as my ‘86 4KQ did not nor did my dad’s > ‘87 100Q; but I thought the 200 got it with the ‘89 redesign.
I dunno about that CR – maybe JPF could verify that? Audiworld’s model guide shows that the ‘89 200 had a " Lockable rear differential with automatic disengagement" – is that what you are referring to? Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
Response:
Hey Steve, did you lock either of the differentials when you drove around in the message you posted earlier? I’m a little worried about locking the center dif and doing some damage if I need to turn too sharply at any real speed. ps- drop me a line at me e-mail addy. You gave me some advice a while back about the Q chip and I need the guys link sent to me again… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Bill, > There are different things that can be done to modify troublesome systems in > the Type 44: > Hydraulics – the pressure accumulator, which is charged with nitrogen, loses > its charge over time and causes problems – you can get a rebuilt one that > makes it rechargeable (there is a guy in Southern Ontario doing some – the > procedure was outlined in Audifans) or you can buy a new one – way more > expensive but will probably last longer than you have the car. I have also > heard of people refitting a vacuum assist system from an earlier (?) Type 44 > to eliminate the "bomb" altogether. Doing that also eliminates the use of > the big, leak prone power steering pump that charges the brake accumulator > as well as the rack. > Headlights – the current passing through the turn signal stalk assembly is > way too much when using things like flash to pass – installing relays to > switch power from the headlights is not too difficult, and will reduce the > future need for electric troubleshooting here. > As soon as the snow starts _really_ falling, you’ll appreciate the quattro > system on the car. In the largest winter storm last year, with about 12" of > snow on the road (more in drifts) I was the only car moving on some roads – > even my boss in his big Dorf F250 diesel 4×4 went home early – I had to make > some deliveries in-town and was blasting past minivans, cars and SUV’s stuck > and ditched all over the place – you would have loved the looks I got. I’m > going to get a window sticker that says "I only dragrace in 1 foot of snow" > Cheers! > Steve Sears > 1987 Audi 5kTQ > 1980 Audi 5k > 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes >Thanks one and all for your comments. >I spoke to two local euro car mechanics today. >#1 said: don’t get it, you won’t be happy. They will take all your money. >Great for him, but not for me. He said get a Saab 900 with a good >transmission or a VW instead. >Problem is, I have a car with a lot of problems that I hate to drive. The >Audi I am looking at has had a great deal of money put into it already, > but >currently has no problems. I’m trying to buy more time and enjoy what I >drive. I’ve been one of those out of work technology execs since last >January. I do not want a car payment, and the money I have can cover this >car and then some. The way the car has presented itself to me at a time in >need feels somewhat like providence and fortuitous. >#2 said: all euro cars have their own special problems with which they > take >your money. Audi’s have hydraulic problems, electrical problems, and >AC/heating problems. Saab’s have transmission problems and so on. A Toyota >Camry doesn’t have problems, but they are like driving a boring appliance. >He said that US cars and Euro cars are not that different in parts costs. >When you fix something in one of these, does it STAY fixed? Are there >upgrades (i.e. Hydraulics) that can be made when doing repairs that are >better than standard OEM parts replacements that increase the life of the >repair? >At the end of the day I’d basically be trading a 96 Ford with mounting >problems, for an 89 Audi that currently has no problems, and I’d have a >little cash left over. >Sincerely, Thank you all. If I get it, I’ll try to grab the Bentley manual >(a little more pricey than a Chilton’s). >Bill >>Bill, >>There’s a section in the Tips section of Blaufergnugen’s (Audi parts > vendor) >>web site providing a checklist for purchasing a used Audi Quattro: > http://www.audiquattroparts.com/technical_tips/audi%20quattro%20check… >>As for web resources: >>www.audifans.com – mostly owners of older Audis (pre-1995) here – > searching >>the archives will provide you with a ton of repair tips and tricks and >>troubleshooting help. Check the archives, if you don’t find an answer, > then >>post a question to the group. >>A few of the folks on the Audifans site are developing a "Knowledgebase" > to >>simplify the search for repair/troubleshooting/upgrading/etc. stuff. >>www.audiworld.com – the 100/200/5000/V8 forum (aka the V8 forum) > discusses >>Type 44 stuff. I find that there’s a bit too much "RahRah Audi" and > fluff >>(the posting is all in the subject line, and the signature line of some > is >>like a parts bin inventory/ingredient list of what’s been put on the >>person’s car) going on at Audiworld (read CR’s posting about the > respective >>German marque clubs) – As a Type 44 owner there’s just some things that > I >>(and many others) curse Audi for – like fragile doorhandle parts (search > for >>"Team Doorhandle"), overly complex brake hydraulics (search for "Brake >>Bomb"), etc. >>All that said, however, I enjoy my car immensely despite its faults. It > had >>countless owners before I got it, and after working through some super >>frustrating problems caused by PO (previous owner) neglect – like a > blown >>headgasket and cooling system problems – I now have an excellent daily >>driver that I mostly do routine maintenance on. >>Keep JPF’s contact info if you get the car – he’s a good guy to know in > this >>biz. >>For new parts – www.audiquattroparts.com , www.zzmotors.com , and others >>dealers are on the web. For used parts – check www.car-part.com or with >>specialized Audi recyclers like Shokan at www.800allaudi.com >>Cheers! >>Steve Sears >>1987 Audi 5kTQ >>1980 Audi 5k >>1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes >>>Thanks very much for your reply. Certainly nothing is problem free. But > if >>>I’m going to have problems, I’d rather it be with something other than > a 4 >>>cyl. Ford Contour. >>>The heater pads all work, very well. But if they didn’t, I wouldn’t > care >>>that much. The Saab 99 I had possessed the heated seats, and they never >>>worked. I got that car out of tobacco field in NC, and one new $250.00 >>>starter later, a battery, and general stuff I was able to drive it from > NC >>>to NE and back. I like working on cars that are fun to work on and fun > to >>>drive. This car seems like a good choice for that. >>>The odometer is annoying, and makes it a harder sell with my wife. >>>What exactly is the ECU? Parts costs associated with that job? >>>Thanks again, >>>Bill Graham >>>>Not a bad car, but it’s no problem-free ride. It’s old. >>>>The "winter package" is moot, as the drivers seat heater pads are >>>>usually dead by now. I now own 4 type 44 quattros, (All >>>>5000/100/200/V8 are type 44 cars.) and I’ve had to replace the drivers >>>>lower pad on all 4. (At least your passengers butts will be warm.) >>>>At this vintage, age begins to show. Heater core/blower motor >>>>repair is always ominous, $500-ish. (Parts under $200) Steering pump >>>>can go, $400-ish. (Again, part under $250.) >>>>Driveline major is very reliable. >>>>I just bought one, ‘89 black on black, paid $1,000, but it was a >>>>trade-in at a friends dealer. It needed a steering pump, a radiator, >>>>and a drivers lower seat heater pad. The passenger outer mirror >>>>doean’t heat, I have a new glass, but haven’t stuck it in yet. It’s >>>>got 200K on it. Total parts bill was under $600. >>>>If you;re handly, buying the Bentley is job 1. www.rb.com . >>>>This is a very easy car for shade-tree maintenance. >>>>Also, you’d want to upgrade the ECU to gain 50+HP. They really need a >>>>little more steam. It’s a half-hour job, and a whole new car. >>>>Find yourself a decent parts source, and life is good. >>>>There is nothing like a quattro in inclement weather. >>>>>Hello, >>>>>I am considering buying the car above, ‘89 200 Quattro Turbo with the >>cold
Response:
> Thanks one and all for your comments. > I spoke to two local euro car mechanics today. > #1 said: don’t get it, you won’t be happy. They will take all your money. > Great for him, but not for me. He said get a Saab 900 with a good > transmission or a VW instead.
Sounds like he doesn’t like working on them – or isn’t that familiar with doing so. He’s simply telling you to pick up a *different* set of problems that he *is* familiar with. > #2 said: all euro cars have their own special problems with which they take > your money. Audi’s have hydraulic problems, electrical problems, and > AC/heating problems. > He said that US cars and Euro cars are not that different in parts costs.
He’s correct and he sounds more pragmatic. > When you fix something in one of these, does it STAY fixed?
Generally, yes. > Are there upgrades that can be made when doing repairs that are > better than standard OEM parts replacements that increase the life of the > repair?
Discussed by another poster. > If I get it, I’ll try to grab the Bentley manual > (a little more pricey than a Chilton’s).
A *little*? These suckers are *three* *big* volumes (the ‘89-’91 car; *not* the previous ‘5000′ – only *two* *big* volumes) and sell for about a ‘C’ note. That said, they’re well worth it. > Bill, > There’s a section in the Tips section of Blaufergnugen’s (Audi parts vendor) > web site providing a checklist for purchasing a used Audi Quattro:
There is? Of course, being only 5 miles away, I usually just go over and see Jim in the office. ;^) > Type 44 stuff. I find that there’s a bit too much "RahRah Audi" and fluff > (the posting is all in the subject line, and the signature line of some is > like a parts bin inventory/ingredient list of what’s been put on the > person’s car) going on at Audiworld (read CR’s posting about the respective > German marque clubs) –
LOL! Danke sehr! > As a Type 44 owner there’s just some things that I > (and many others) curse Audi for – like fragile doorhandle parts (search for > "Team Doorhandle"),
This is the one correction I wanted to make in your post. You’re dating yourself, Sears. The *early* Type 44 (and all early- and mid-’80s VWs & Audis)door handles sucked and broke by design. The later ones (this is an ‘89 he’s looking at) have the *New!* *Improved!* door handles. It is, IME, no longer an issue. > Keep JPF’s contact info if you get the car – he’s a good guy to know in this > biz.
Second that! Bear in mind he can be a tad more irascible than I am sometimes – and he’s a lot more valuable resource to you than *I* ever will be. > For new parts – www.audiquattroparts.com , www.zzmotors.com , and others > dealers are on the web. For used parts – check www.car-part.com or with > specialized Audi recyclers like Shokan at www.800allaudi.com
More good stuff. Good job, SS. — C.R. Krieger Sig broke.
Response:
> <snip> > This is the one correction I wanted to make in your post. You’re > dating yourself, Sears. The *early* Type 44 (and all early- and > mid-’80s VWs & Audis)door handles sucked and broke by design. The > later ones (this is an ‘89 he’s looking at) have the *New!* > *Improved!* door handles. It is, IME, no longer an issue. > Hahaha…good thing I didn’t start talking about DKW’s, huh? Actually, what > breaks in the later Type 44 flush handles is the lock – weak cast part on > the back of the cylinder is to blame there – stamped replacements are > available.
Come to think of it, you’re right! I’ve replaced a couple of those. But, technically, it *isn’t* the door *handle*, is it? ;^) I guess I overlooked it because the redesigned parts *fixed* the problem while they never did change that damnable potmetal mounting point on the older ones. — C.R. Krieger (Been there; fixed that, too.)
Response:
JPF, Hmm….good to know since I have a set of doors from a ‘91 200 with the flush handles I was planning on swapping to. Oh well, no alarm, no worries – I’ll just leave the doors unlocked – or get around to installing that remote lock/unlocking kit I got at Wally Mart that has been sitting in the garage…. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ – appearance change in the works 1980 Audi 5k – has a cool Type 43 Turbo chin spoiler – ooooh!!! 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – tricked out with headlight eyebrows
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Snip<< > Actually, what >breaks in the later Type 44 flush handles is the lock – weak cast part on >the back of the cylinder is to blame there – stamped replacements are >available. ><snip> > Sure, but then the cheap plastic teeth fall off the stamped piece, and > the alarm doesn’t work! > Gimme’ the old handles any day. They bust once a year, but you don’t > have to pull the door panel to fix it! >Thanks! >Steve Sears >1987 Audi 5kTQ – Type 44 >1980 Audi 5k – Type 43 >1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – Type F800
Response:
>>Snip<< > Actually, what >breaks in the later Type 44 flush handles is the lock – weak cast part on >the back of the cylinder is to blame there – stamped replacements are >available. ><snip>
Sure, but then the cheap plastic teeth fall off the stamped piece, and the alarm doesn’t work! Gimme’ the old handles any day. They bust once a year, but you don’t have to pull the door panel to fix it! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Thanks! >Steve Sears >1987 Audi 5kTQ – Type 44 >1980 Audi 5k – Type 43 >1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – Type F800
Response:
<snip> > This is the one correction I wanted to make in your post. You’re > dating yourself, Sears. The *early* Type 44 (and all early- and > mid-’80s VWs & Audis)door handles sucked and broke by design. The > later ones (this is an ‘89 he’s looking at) have the *New!* > *Improved!* door handles. It is, IME, no longer an issue.
Hahaha…good thing I didn’t start talking about DKW’s, huh? Actually, what breaks in the later Type 44 flush handles is the lock – weak cast part on the back of the cylinder is to blame there – stamped replacements are available. <snip> > More good stuff. Good job, SS.
Thanks! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ – Type 44 1980 Audi 5k – Type 43 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes – Type F800
Response:
Bill, There are different things that can be done to modify troublesome systems in the Type 44: Hydraulics – the pressure accumulator, which is charged with nitrogen, loses its charge over time and causes problems – you can get a rebuilt one that makes it rechargeable (there is a guy in Southern Ontario doing some – the procedure was outlined in Audifans) or you can buy a new one – way more expensive but will probably last longer than you have the car. I have also heard of people refitting a vacuum assist system from an earlier (?) Type 44 to eliminate the "bomb" altogether. Doing that also eliminates the use of the big, leak prone power steering pump that charges the brake accumulator as well as the rack. Headlights – the current passing through the turn signal stalk assembly is way too much when using things like flash to pass – installing relays to switch power from the headlights is not too difficult, and will reduce the future need for electric troubleshooting here. As soon as the snow starts _really_ falling, you’ll appreciate the quattro system on the car. In the largest winter storm last year, with about 12" of snow on the road (more in drifts) I was the only car moving on some roads – even my boss in his big Dorf F250 diesel 4×4 went home early – I had to make some deliveries in-town and was blasting past minivans, cars and SUV’s stuck and ditched all over the place – you would have loved the looks I got. I’m going to get a window sticker that says "I only dragrace in 1 foot of snow" Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks one and all for your comments. > I spoke to two local euro car mechanics today. > #1 said: don’t get it, you won’t be happy. They will take all your money. > Great for him, but not for me. He said get a Saab 900 with a good > transmission or a VW instead. > Problem is, I have a car with a lot of problems that I hate to drive. The > Audi I am looking at has had a great deal of money put into it already, but > currently has no problems. I’m trying to buy more time and enjoy what I > drive. I’ve been one of those out of work technology execs since last > January. I do not want a car payment, and the money I have can cover this > car and then some. The way the car has presented itself to me at a time in > need feels somewhat like providence and fortuitous. > #2 said: all euro cars have their own special problems with which they take > your money. Audi’s have hydraulic problems, electrical problems, and > AC/heating problems. Saab’s have transmission problems and so on. A Toyota > Camry doesn’t have problems, but they are like driving a boring appliance. > He said that US cars and Euro cars are not that different in parts costs. > When you fix something in one of these, does it STAY fixed? Are there > upgrades (i.e. Hydraulics) that can be made when doing repairs that are > better than standard OEM parts replacements that increase the life of the > repair? > At the end of the day I’d basically be trading a 96 Ford with mounting > problems, for an 89 Audi that currently has no problems, and I’d have a > little cash left over. > Sincerely, Thank you all. If I get it, I’ll try to grab the Bentley manual > (a little more pricey than a Chilton’s). > Bill > Bill, > There’s a section in the Tips section of Blaufergnugen’s (Audi parts vendor) > web site providing a checklist for purchasing a used Audi Quattro:
http://www.audiquattroparts.com/technical_tips/audi%20quattro%20check… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As for web resources: > www.audifans.com – mostly owners of older Audis (pre-1995) here – searching > the archives will provide you with a ton of repair tips and tricks and > troubleshooting help. Check the archives, if you don’t find an answer, then > post a question to the group. > A few of the folks on the Audifans site are developing a "Knowledgebase" to > simplify the search for repair/troubleshooting/upgrading/etc. stuff. > www.audiworld.com – the 100/200/5000/V8 forum (aka the V8 forum) discusses > Type 44 stuff. I find that there’s a bit too much "RahRah Audi" and fluff > (the posting is all in the subject line, and the signature line of some is > like a parts bin inventory/ingredient list of what’s been put on the > person’s car) going on at Audiworld (read CR’s posting about the respective > German marque clubs) – As a Type 44 owner there’s just some things that I > (and many others) curse Audi for – like fragile doorhandle parts (search for > "Team Doorhandle"), overly complex brake hydraulics (search for "Brake > Bomb"), etc. > All that said, however, I enjoy my car immensely despite its faults. It had > countless owners before I got it, and after working through some super > frustrating problems caused by PO (previous owner) neglect – like a blown > headgasket and cooling system problems – I now have an excellent daily > driver that I mostly do routine maintenance on. > Keep JPF’s contact info if you get the car – he’s a good guy to know in this > biz. > For new parts – www.audiquattroparts.com , www.zzmotors.com , and others > dealers are on the web. For used parts – check www.car-part.com or with > specialized Audi recyclers like Shokan at www.800allaudi.com > Cheers! > Steve Sears > 1987 Audi 5kTQ > 1980 Audi 5k > 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes >> Thanks very much for your reply. Certainly nothing is problem free. But if >> I’m going to have problems, I’d rather it be with something other than a 4 >> cyl. Ford Contour. >> The heater pads all work, very well. But if they didn’t, I wouldn’t care >> that much. The Saab 99 I had possessed the heated seats, and they never >> worked. I got that car out of tobacco field in NC, and one new $250.00 >> starter later, a battery, and general stuff I was able to drive it from NC >> to NE and back. I like working on cars that are fun to work on and fun to >> drive. This car seems like a good choice for that. >> The odometer is annoying, and makes it a harder sell with my wife. >> What exactly is the ECU? Parts costs associated with that job? >> Thanks again, >> Bill Graham >>> Not a bad car, but it’s no problem-free ride. It’s old. >>> The "winter package" is moot, as the drivers seat heater pads are >>> usually dead by now. I now own 4 type 44 quattros, (All >>> 5000/100/200/V8 are type 44 cars.) and I’ve had to replace the drivers >>> lower pad on all 4. (At least your passengers butts will be warm.) >>> At this vintage, age begins to show. Heater core/blower motor >>> repair is always ominous, $500-ish. (Parts under $200) Steering pump >>> can go, $400-ish. (Again, part under $250.) >>> Driveline major is very reliable. >>> I just bought one, ‘89 black on black, paid $1,000, but it was a >>> trade-in at a friends dealer. It needed a steering pump, a radiator, >>> and a drivers lower seat heater pad. The passenger outer mirror >>> doean’t heat, I have a new glass, but haven’t stuck it in yet. It’s >>> got 200K on it. Total parts bill was under $600. >>> If you;re handly, buying the Bentley is job 1. www.rb.com . >>> This is a very easy car for shade-tree maintenance. >>> Also, you’d want to upgrade the ECU to gain 50+HP. They really need a >>> little more steam. It’s a half-hour job, and a whole new car. >>> Find yourself a decent parts source, and life is good. >>> There is nothing like a quattro in inclement weather. >>>> Hello, >>>> I am considering buying the car above, ‘89 200 Quattro Turbo with the > cold
Response:
Thanks one and all for your comments. I spoke to two local euro car mechanics today. #1 said: don’t get it, you won’t be happy. They will take all your money. Great for him, but not for me. He said get a Saab 900 with a good transmission or a VW instead. Problem is, I have a car with a lot of problems that I hate to drive. The Audi I am looking at has had a great deal of money put into it already, but currently has no problems. I’m trying to buy more time and enjoy what I drive. I’ve been one of those out of work technology execs since last January. I do not want a car payment, and the money I have can cover this car and then some. The way the car has presented itself to me at a time in need feels somewhat like providence and fortuitous. #2 said: all euro cars have their own special problems with which they take your money. Audi’s have hydraulic problems, electrical problems, and AC/heating problems. Saab’s have transmission problems and so on. A Toyota Camry doesn’t have problems, but they are like driving a boring appliance. He said that US cars and Euro cars are not that different in parts costs. When you fix something in one of these, does it STAY fixed? Are there upgrades (i.e. Hydraulics) that can be made when doing repairs that are better than standard OEM parts replacements that increase the life of the repair? At the end of the day I’d basically be trading a 96 Ford with mounting problems, for an 89 Audi that currently has no problems, and I’d have a little cash left over. Sincerely, Thank you all. If I get it, I’ll try to grab the Bentley manual (a little more pricey than a Chilton’s). Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Bill, > There’s a section in the Tips section of Blaufergnugen’s (Audi parts vendor) > web site providing a checklist for purchasing a used Audi Quattro: > http://www.audiquattroparts.com/technical_tips/audi%20quattro%20check… > As for web resources: > www.audifans.com – mostly owners of older Audis (pre-1995) here – searching > the archives will provide you with a ton of repair tips and tricks and > troubleshooting help. Check the archives, if you don’t find an answer, then > post a question to the group. > A few of the folks on the Audifans site are developing a "Knowledgebase" to > simplify the search for repair/troubleshooting/upgrading/etc. stuff. > www.audiworld.com – the 100/200/5000/V8 forum (aka the V8 forum) discusses > Type 44 stuff. I find that there’s a bit too much "RahRah Audi" and fluff > (the posting is all in the subject line, and the signature line of some is > like a parts bin inventory/ingredient list of what’s been put on the > person’s car) going on at Audiworld (read CR’s posting about the respective > German marque clubs) – As a Type 44 owner there’s just some things that I > (and many others) curse Audi for – like fragile doorhandle parts (search for > "Team Doorhandle"), overly complex brake hydraulics (search for "Brake > Bomb"), etc. > All that said, however, I enjoy my car immensely despite its faults. It had > countless owners before I got it, and after working through some super > frustrating problems caused by PO (previous owner) neglect – like a blown > headgasket and cooling system problems – I now have an excellent daily > driver that I mostly do routine maintenance on. > Keep JPF’s contact info if you get the car – he’s a good guy to know in this > biz. > For new parts – www.audiquattroparts.com , www.zzmotors.com , and others > dealers are on the web. For used parts – check www.car-part.com or with > specialized Audi recyclers like Shokan at www.800allaudi.com > Cheers! > Steve Sears > 1987 Audi 5kTQ > 1980 Audi 5k > 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes > Thanks very much for your reply. Certainly nothing is problem free. But if > I’m going to have problems, I’d rather it be with something other than a 4 > cyl. Ford Contour. > The heater pads all work, very well. But if they didn’t, I wouldn’t care > that much. The Saab 99 I had possessed the heated seats, and they never > worked. I got that car out of tobacco field in NC, and one new $250.00 > starter later, a battery, and general stuff I was able to drive it from NC > to NE and back. I like working on cars that are fun to work on and fun to > drive. This car seems like a good choice for that. > The odometer is annoying, and makes it a harder sell with my wife. > What exactly is the ECU? Parts costs associated with that job? > Thanks again, > Bill Graham >> Not a bad car, but it’s no problem-free ride. It’s old. >> The "winter package" is moot, as the drivers seat heater pads are >> usually dead by now. I now own 4 type 44 quattros, (All >> 5000/100/200/V8 are type 44 cars.) and I’ve had to replace the drivers >> lower pad on all 4. (At least your passengers butts will be warm.) >> At this vintage, age begins to show. Heater core/blower motor >> repair is always ominous, $500-ish. (Parts under $200) Steering pump >> can go, $400-ish. (Again, part under $250.) >> Driveline major is very reliable. >> I just bought one, ‘89 black on black, paid $1,000, but it was a >> trade-in at a friends dealer. It needed a steering pump, a radiator, >> and a drivers lower seat heater pad. The passenger outer mirror >> doean’t heat, I have a new glass, but haven’t stuck it in yet. It’s >> got 200K on it. Total parts bill was under $600. >> If you;re handly, buying the Bentley is job 1. www.rb.com . >> This is a very easy car for shade-tree maintenance. >> Also, you’d want to upgrade the ECU to gain 50+HP. They really need a >> little more steam. It’s a half-hour job, and a whole new car. >> Find yourself a decent parts source, and life is good. >> There is nothing like a quattro in inclement weather. >>> Hello, >>> I am considering buying the car above, ‘89 200 Quattro Turbo with the > cold
Response:
Hello, I am considering buying the car above, ‘89 200 Quattro Turbo with the cold weather package. While doing some research on this model, I thankfully found this newsgroup. I hope someone is willing to share some insight, either here or via e-mail. The car is in very good condition it seems. It’s got 145k miles on it, and has had the following work done in the past few years: Timing belt, water pump, steering rack, new tires, master brake cylinder, slave cylinder, fuel line hoses. That I can see right now, the front passenger side window doesn’t like to go up all the way, and the odometer is stopped working at 144828 miles. Parts don’t seem that expensive and there’s a lot of them on eBay from various shops around the country. I like working on cars, and have worked on a Saab 99 and older Volvo’s in the past. However, I actually need this car to be a reliable one, and to replace a Ford with numerous electrical and transmission problems. What am I getting myself into buying the Audi. Asking price is $1500.00. Never wrecked, no rust, and the paint and interior are in pretty good shape. A lot of the small things could be easily fixed up. Thank you for your time and help. Bill Graham
Response:
Thanks very much for your reply. Certainly nothing is problem free. But if I’m going to have problems, I’d rather it be with something other than a 4 cyl. Ford Contour. The heater pads all work, very well. But if they didn’t, I wouldn’t care that much. The Saab 99 I had possessed the heated seats, and they never worked. I got that car out of tobacco field in NC, and one new $250.00 starter later, a battery, and general stuff I was able to drive it from NC to NE and back. I like working on cars that are fun to work on and fun to drive. This car seems like a good choice for that. The odometer is annoying, and makes it a harder sell with my wife. What exactly is the ECU? Parts costs associated with that job? Thanks again, Bill Graham – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Not a bad car, but it’s no problem-free ride. It’s old. > The "winter package" is moot, as the drivers seat heater pads are > usually dead by now. I now own 4 type 44 quattros, (All > 5000/100/200/V8 are type 44 cars.) and I’ve had to replace the drivers > lower pad on all 4. (At least your passengers butts will be warm.) > At this vintage, age begins to show. Heater core/blower motor > repair is always ominous, $500-ish. (Parts under $200) Steering pump > can go, $400-ish. (Again, part under $250.) > Driveline major is very reliable. > I just bought one, ‘89 black on black, paid $1,000, but it was a > trade-in at a friends dealer. It needed a steering pump, a radiator, > and a drivers lower seat heater pad. The passenger outer mirror > doean’t heat, I have a new glass, but haven’t stuck it in yet. It’s > got 200K on it. Total parts bill was under $600. > If you;re handly, buying the Bentley is job 1. www.rb.com . > This is a very easy car for shade-tree maintenance. > Also, you’d want to upgrade the ECU to gain 50+HP. They really need a > little more steam. It’s a half-hour job, and a whole new car. > Find yourself a decent parts source, and life is good. > There is nothing like a quattro in inclement weather. > Hello, > I am considering buying the car above, ‘89 200 Quattro Turbo with the cold
Response:
One of the best resources is www.sjmautotechnik.com . It is full of insights and information for this car. Scott Mockry, the site owner, also does ECU upgrades. There are many choices out there for upgrades, but none of the other options have not devoted as much time to help others. Scott deserves your business. He also sell the parts you’ll need. I want to say the upgrade runs $350-ish. But for 50-60HP, that’s not bad money. If the speedo works and the odo does not, it’s broken. If nothing works, it’s commonly the speed sensor on the gearbox. A busted odo can be repaired, Ohio Valley Speedometer comes to mind. At 150K, however, why bother? I have two V8’s, a 5KCSQ, and a 200Q with a total of 850,000 miles between them. And no, she’s no tempo. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Thanks very much for your reply. Certainly nothing is problem free. But if >I’m going to have problems, I’d rather it be with something other than a 4 >cyl. Ford Contour. >The heater pads all work, very well. But if they didn’t, I wouldn’t care >that much. The Saab 99 I had possessed the heated seats, and they never >worked. I got that car out of tobacco field in NC, and one new $250.00 >starter later, a battery, and general stuff I was able to drive it from NC >to NE and back. I like working on cars that are fun to work on and fun to >drive. This car seems like a good choice for that. >The odometer is annoying, and makes it a harder sell with my wife. >What exactly is the ECU? Parts costs associated with that job? >Thanks again, >Bill Graham
Response:
Bill, There’s a section in the Tips section of Blaufergnugen’s (Audi parts vendor) web site providing a checklist for purchasing a used Audi Quattro: http://www.audiquattroparts.com/technical_tips/audi%20quattro%20check… As for web resources: www.audifans.com – mostly owners of older Audis (pre-1995) here – searching the archives will provide you with a ton of repair tips and tricks and troubleshooting help. Check the archives, if you don’t find an answer, then post a question to the group. A few of the folks on the Audifans site are developing a "Knowledgebase" to simplify the search for repair/troubleshooting/upgrading/etc. stuff. www.audiworld.com – the 100/200/5000/V8 forum (aka the V8 forum) discusses Type 44 stuff. I find that there’s a bit too much "RahRah Audi" and fluff (the posting is all in the subject line, and the signature line of some is like a parts bin inventory/ingredient list of what’s been put on the person’s car) going on at Audiworld (read CR’s posting about the respective German marque clubs) – As a Type 44 owner there’s just some things that I (and many others) curse Audi for – like fragile doorhandle parts (search for "Team Doorhandle"), overly complex brake hydraulics (search for "Brake Bomb"), etc. All that said, however, I enjoy my car immensely despite its faults. It had countless owners before I got it, and after working through some super frustrating problems caused by PO (previous owner) neglect – like a blown headgasket and cooling system problems – I now have an excellent daily driver that I mostly do routine maintenance on. Keep JPF’s contact info if you get the car – he’s a good guy to know in this biz. For new parts – www.audiquattroparts.com , www.zzmotors.com , and others dealers are on the web. For used parts – check www.car-part.com or with specialized Audi recyclers like Shokan at www.800allaudi.com Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks very much for your reply. Certainly nothing is problem free. But if > I’m going to have problems, I’d rather it be with something other than a 4 > cyl. Ford Contour. > The heater pads all work, very well. But if they didn’t, I wouldn’t care > that much. The Saab 99 I had possessed the heated seats, and they never > worked. I got that car out of tobacco field in NC, and one new $250.00 > starter later, a battery, and general stuff I was able to drive it from NC > to NE and back. I like working on cars that are fun to work on and fun to > drive. This car seems like a good choice for that. > The odometer is annoying, and makes it a harder sell with my wife. > What exactly is the ECU? Parts costs associated with that job? > Thanks again, > Bill Graham > Not a bad car, but it’s no problem-free ride. It’s old. > The "winter package" is moot, as the drivers seat heater pads are > usually dead by now. I now own 4 type 44 quattros, (All > 5000/100/200/V8 are type 44 cars.) and I’ve had to replace the drivers > lower pad on all 4. (At least your passengers butts will be warm.) > At this vintage, age begins to show. Heater core/blower motor > repair is always ominous, $500-ish. (Parts under $200) Steering pump > can go, $400-ish. (Again, part under $250.) > Driveline major is very reliable. > I just bought one, ‘89 black on black, paid $1,000, but it was a > trade-in at a friends dealer. It needed a steering pump, a radiator, > and a drivers lower seat heater pad. The passenger outer mirror > doean’t heat, I have a new glass, but haven’t stuck it in yet. It’s > got 200K on it. Total parts bill was under $600. > If you;re handly, buying the Bentley is job 1. www.rb.com . > This is a very easy car for shade-tree maintenance. > Also, you’d want to upgrade the ECU to gain 50+HP. They really need a > little more steam. It’s a half-hour job, and a whole new car. > Find yourself a decent parts source, and life is good. > There is nothing like a quattro in inclement weather. >> Hello, >> I am considering buying the car above, ‘89 200 Quattro Turbo with the cold
Response:
Question:
Okay, I called the current owner and I am going to go look at the car today. He said that the engine was rebuilt 11K miles ago. In this case, how do I enter mileage into things like Kelly Blue Book or Edmunds TMV…do I use 11K (mileage on rebulit engine) or 195K (mileage on chassis), or do I split the difference and go with 103K? He also said that brakes were replaced 30K miles ago, I assume this means that they’ll be due for a replacement oon – how much should I expect this to cost?
Response:
As an owner of 1986 5000TQ with 406 000 km on the clock and not a single rust spot, all I can say is : Find yourself another mechanic.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I called some mechanics in my area today to get some quotes on what > servicing might cost. Below are the general prices that I was quoted, could > anyone who knows pitch in and let me know if they sound reasonable? > Timing Belt & Water Pump: $450-$800 > Oil Change: $30-$50(dealership) > Brakes: $130-150 per axle; $180 per axel for Audi parts > General Service Inspection: $30 – $88 – $400+ (I assume there is so much > variance because different mechanics assumed different amounts of work.) > When I mentioned to one mechanic that I was considering buying an older > model Audi he told me that he had just seen one the had "a completely > rusted-out frame" and that older Audis in general have tremendous suspension > problems. Can anyone comment on this?
Response:
The 12 Valve might not be but I am not the authority. Try checking with the peopls on AudiWorld. http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/ Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Tony, > You seem to know…. Is my V-6 interference? > Thanks, > Ron >Nope, not interference if NA. >Tony >>>You haven’t mentioned if these are turbos but if they are and if the >>Nope, neither of these cars are turbos. However, I think that they still >>have interference engines. >>>timing belt broke then it ate valves (interference engine). Rebuilding >>>the head is the nest step. If it was done well it should not have >>>negative impact of the performance or reliability. In fact, it has new >>>valves and guides – a good thing. >>>Tony >>>’91 100Q 5spd >>>NA – No Turbo >>>>Okay, the Coupe I was looking at was sold by the dealer before I got a >>>>chance to see it. However, there is another one listed in the >>classifieds, >>>>its a little hazy on the details (i.e. no mileage listed) but its >>>>essentially the same thing I was looking at before: 1990 Audi Coupe >>Quattro >>>>5spd, black asking price is $4,000. The add also mentions "rebuilt >>head." I >>>>assume this means that something broke and did damage to the cylinder >>head, >>>>thus it had to be replaced. What does this do to the value of the car? >>Will >>>>the reliablity change (for better or for worse)? >>>>-Matt >>>>>I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on > it >>>>from >>>>>a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think > is >>>>>ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a >>dealer. >>>>>I’m probably going to check it out sometime next week and would >>appreciate >>>>>any tips from the knowledgeable people in this group. >>>>>What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I > don’t >>>>>know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for >>simple >>>>>things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after > the >>>>>test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing > belt. >>>>How >>>>>often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this >>>>>including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if >>anyone >>>>>know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from >>>>you. >>>>>My final question: Could some other ‘90 Coupe Quattro owners out there >>>>pitch >>>>>in and give me their opinions regarding this car and it reliability? >>>>>Thanks, >>>>> Matt > — > Outgoing mail is AVG certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Response:
Okay, the Coupe I was looking at was sold by the dealer before I got a chance to see it. However, there is another one listed in the classifieds, its a little hazy on the details (i.e. no mileage listed) but its essentially the same thing I was looking at before: 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro 5spd, black asking price is $4,000. The add also mentions "rebuilt head." I assume this means that something broke and did damage to the cylinder head, thus it had to be replaced. What does this do to the value of the car? Will the reliablity change (for better or for worse)? -Matt
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on it from > a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think is > ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a dealer. > I’m probably going to check it out sometime next week and would appreciate > any tips from the knowledgeable people in this group. > What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I don’t > know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for simple > things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after the > test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing belt. How > often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this > including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if anyone > know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from you. > My final question: Could some other ‘90 Coupe Quattro owners out there pitch > in and give me their opinions regarding this car and it reliability? > Thanks, > Matt
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You haven’t mentioned if these are turbos but if they are and if the timing belt broke then it ate valves (interference engine). Rebuilding the head is the nest step. If it was done well it should not have negative impact of the performance or reliability. In fact, it has new valves and guides – a good thing. Tony ‘91 100Q 5spd NA – No Turbo – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Okay, the Coupe I was looking at was sold by the dealer before I got a > chance to see it. However, there is another one listed in the classifieds, > its a little hazy on the details (i.e. no mileage listed) but its > essentially the same thing I was looking at before: 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro > 5spd, black asking price is $4,000. The add also mentions "rebuilt head." I > assume this means that something broke and did damage to the cylinder head, > thus it had to be replaced. What does this do to the value of the car? Will > the reliablity change (for better or for worse)? > -Matt >I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on it > from >a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think is >ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a dealer. >I’m probably going to check it out sometime next week and would appreciate >any tips from the knowledgeable people in this group. >What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I don’t >know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for simple >things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after the >test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing belt. > How >often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this >including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if anyone >know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from > you. >My final question: Could some other ‘90 Coupe Quattro owners out there > pitch >in and give me their opinions regarding this car and it reliability? >Thanks, > Matt
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> You haven’t mentioned if these are turbos but if they are and if the
Nope, neither of these cars are turbos. However, I think that they still have interference engines. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> timing belt broke then it ate valves (interference engine). Rebuilding > the head is the nest step. If it was done well it should not have > negative impact of the performance or reliability. In fact, it has new > valves and guides – a good thing. > Tony > ‘91 100Q 5spd > NA – No Turbo > Okay, the Coupe I was looking at was sold by the dealer before I got a > chance to see it. However, there is another one listed in the classifieds, > its a little hazy on the details (i.e. no mileage listed) but its > essentially the same thing I was looking at before: 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro > 5spd, black asking price is $4,000. The add also mentions "rebuilt head." I > assume this means that something broke and did damage to the cylinder head, > thus it had to be replaced. What does this do to the value of the car? Will > the reliablity change (for better or for worse)? > -Matt >>I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on it > from >>a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think is >>ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a dealer. >>I’m probably going to check it out sometime next week and would appreciate >>any tips from the knowledgeable people in this group. >>What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I don’t >>know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for simple >>things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after the >>test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing belt. > How >>often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this >>including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if anyone >>know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from > you. >>My final question: Could some other ‘90 Coupe Quattro owners out there > pitch >>in and give me their opinions regarding this car and it reliability? >>Thanks, >> Matt
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Nope, not interference if NA. Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->You haven’t mentioned if these are turbos but if they are and if the > Nope, neither of these cars are turbos. However, I think that they still > have interference engines. >timing belt broke then it ate valves (interference engine). Rebuilding >the head is the nest step. If it was done well it should not have >negative impact of the performance or reliability. In fact, it has new >valves and guides – a good thing. >Tony >’91 100Q 5spd >NA – No Turbo >>Okay, the Coupe I was looking at was sold by the dealer before I got a >>chance to see it. However, there is another one listed in the > classifieds, >>its a little hazy on the details (i.e. no mileage listed) but its >>essentially the same thing I was looking at before: 1990 Audi Coupe > Quattro >>5spd, black asking price is $4,000. The add also mentions "rebuilt > head." I >>assume this means that something broke and did damage to the cylinder > head, >>thus it had to be replaced. What does this do to the value of the car? > Will >>the reliablity change (for better or for worse)? >>-Matt >>>I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on it >>from >>>a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think is >>>ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a > dealer. >>>I’m probably going to check it out sometime next week and would > appreciate >>>any tips from the knowledgeable people in this group. >>>What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I don’t >>>know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for > simple >>>things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after the >>>test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing belt. >>How >>>often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this >>>including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if > anyone >>>know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from >>you. >>>My final question: Could some other ‘90 Coupe Quattro owners out there >>pitch >>>in and give me their opinions regarding this car and it reliability? >>>Thanks, >>> Matt
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Tony, You seem to know…. Is my V-6 interference? Thanks, Ron
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Nope, not interference if NA. > Tony >>You haven’t mentioned if these are turbos but if they are and if the > Nope, neither of these cars are turbos. However, I think that they still > have interference engines. >>timing belt broke then it ate valves (interference engine). Rebuilding >>the head is the nest step. If it was done well it should not have >>negative impact of the performance or reliability. In fact, it has new >>valves and guides – a good thing. >>Tony >>’91 100Q 5spd >>NA – No Turbo >>>Okay, the Coupe I was looking at was sold by the dealer before I got a >>>chance to see it. However, there is another one listed in the > classifieds, >>>its a little hazy on the details (i.e. no mileage listed) but its >>>essentially the same thing I was looking at before: 1990 Audi Coupe > Quattro >>>5spd, black asking price is $4,000. The add also mentions "rebuilt > head." I >>>assume this means that something broke and did damage to the cylinder > head, >>>thus it had to be replaced. What does this do to the value of the car? > Will >>>the reliablity change (for better or for worse)? >>>-Matt >>>>I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on it >>>from >>>>a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think is >>>>ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a > dealer. >>>>I’m probably going to check it out sometime next week and would > appreciate >>>>any tips from the knowledgeable people in this group. >>>>What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I don’t >>>>know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for > simple >>>>things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after the >>>>test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing belt. >>>How >>>>often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this >>>>including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if > anyone >>>>know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from >>>you. >>>>My final question: Could some other ‘90 Coupe Quattro owners out there >>>pitch >>>>in and give me their opinions regarding this car and it reliability? >>>>Thanks, >>>> Matt
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Response:
I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on it from a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think is ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a dealer. I’m probably going to check it out sometime next week and would appreciate any tips from the knowledgeable people in this group. What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I don’t know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for simple things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after the test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing belt. How often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if anyone know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from you. My final question: Could some other ‘90 Coupe Quattro owners out there pitch in and give me their opinions regarding this car and it reliability? Thanks, Matt
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> I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on it from > a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think is > ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a dealer.
I paid (a lot) $4,300 for a ‘91 100Q 5spd with 87K and almost like new a year ago. This is the fourth type 44 that I have owned. You haven’t given enough information to really assess the value. Condition? Turbo? Auto or 5 speed? These can range from $400 to $3000 + depending on options and condition. Turbos and 5 speeds are MUCH preferred and command the highest price. > What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I don’t > know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for simple > things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after the
Again, depends on turbo, auto / stick … Look for: – oil dips – Steering rack and hydraulic pump leaks – Error codes on the display – Radiator fan runs when air cond on? – windows and door handles / locks all operate – Radio OK – Heater / air cond and fan operates – electric seats function – any clunking in the suspension – good idle at 850 rpm > test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing belt. How > often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this > including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if anyone > know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from you.
If this is the turbo it is an interference engine so very important that TB is changed on schedule. Should cost about $500 + with the water pump and front crank seal included. Even if it is not a turbo it should be changed every 60,000 miles. Tony ‘91 100Q 5spd 107K and still like new.
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I called some mechanics in my area today to get some quotes on what servicing might cost. Below are the general prices that I was quoted, could anyone who knows pitch in and let me know if they sound reasonable? Timing Belt & Water Pump: $450-$800 Oil Change: $30-$50(dealership) Brakes: $130-150 per axle; $180 per axel for Audi parts General Service Inspection: $30 – $88 – $400+ (I assume there is so much variance because different mechanics assumed different amounts of work.) When I mentioned to one mechanic that I was considering buying an older model Audi he told me that he had just seen one the had "a completely rusted-out frame" and that older Audis in general have tremendous suspension problems. Can anyone comment on this?
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> When I mentioned to one mechanic that I was considering buying an older > model Audi he told me that he had just seen one the had "a completely > rusted-out frame"
Never heard of this happening b4. > and that older Audis in general have tremendous suspension > problems.
They do not have any more suspension problems that any other car with similar mileage. Can anyone comment on this? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m considering buying an 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro with 125,000mi. on it from > a dealership in my area. They’re asking ~$5,000 for it which I think is > ridiculous, Edmunds reports it true value at around $3,300 from a dealer. > I’m probably going to check it out sometime next week and would appreciate > any tips from the knowledgeable people in this group. > What should I look for during the test drive and under the hood? I don’t > know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I’m sure I could check for simple > things myself. (a real mechanic will look it over if I’m happy after the > test drive.) I’ve heard that one has to be careful with the timing belt. How > often should it be replaced and what is a reasonable price for this > including labor? I’ve also read that the water pumps go. Again, if anyone > know what a reasonable price for this service is I’d love to hear from you. > My final question: Could some other ‘90 Coupe Quattro owners out there pitch > in and give me their opinions regarding this car and it reliability?
My sis-in-law has a ‘90 80q, which is pretty close (LOL.) OK, not so close. For $5k, here’s what I would want: – Full, verifiable service history. – Perfect paint and interior. I mean dead-perfect. – Everything works, especially the climate control system. – Outside Audi expert mechanic verify that curiously-low mileage number. It’ll be the best $200-$400 you spend. Even if you don’t buy the car. ESPECIALLY if you don’t buy the car. – 1-week return for full refund, in writing. That way, you can drive it and see all the niggles before you really are out any cash. – Suspension noise (clunks, groans, etc.) – Fluid leaks. Pull the under-engine pan to look. If you’re going to ignore all that, then at least just walk in with high Blue Book, in cash, and say "take it or I walk." No BS, no waffling – but if they don’t take it, then you’re in no worse shape than when you walked in. Or wait ’til closer to the end of the month, when the guys are trying to make monthly quota. And if you can’t verify the service history, the very first stop (before you take it home) is the mechanic for a timing belt and water pump. (And crankshaft seal, if that model eats those.) Spider
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>My sis-in-law has a ‘90 80q, which is pretty close (LOL.) OK, not so – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->close. > For $5k, here’s what I would want: > – Full, verifiable service history. > – Perfect paint and interior. I mean dead-perfect. > – Everything works, especially the climate control system. > – Outside Audi expert mechanic verify that curiously-low mileage > number. It’ll be the best $200-$400 you spend. Even if you don’t buy > the car. ESPECIALLY if you don’t buy the car. > – 1-week return for full refund, in writing. That way, you can drive > it and see all the niggles before you really are out any cash. > – Suspension noise (clunks, groans, etc.) > – Fluid leaks. Pull the under-engine pan to look. > If you’re going to ignore all that, then at least just walk in with > high Blue Book, in cash, and say "take it or I walk." No BS, no > waffling – but if they don’t take it, then you’re in no worse shape > than when you walked in. Or wait ’til closer to the end of the month, > when the guys are trying to make monthly quota. > And if you can’t verify the service history, the very first stop > (before you take it home) is the mechanic for a timing belt and water > pump. (And crankshaft seal, if that model eats those.) > Spider
Thanks alot for that great breakdown! Just to let you know, I have no intention of paying anywhere near the $5,000 asking price — the dealership has had this car listed way too long for them to hold out for that much money if a real buyer comes in offering less. There is no way in hell that I would even think about purchasing this car until I give it a very rigirous test drive and have a qualified mechanic look it over. When you mentioned suspension noise — is that because you know of older model Audis having suspension trouble, or is it just a general precaution? Again, Thanks alot. -Matt
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> >My sis-in-law has a ‘90 80q, which is pretty close (LOL.) OK, not so >close. > For $5k, here’s what I would want: > – Full, verifiable service history. > – Perfect paint and interior. I mean dead-perfect. > – Everything works, especially the climate control system. > – Outside Audi expert mechanic verify that curiously-low mileage > number. It’ll be the best $200-$400 you spend. Even if you don’t buy > the car. ESPECIALLY if you don’t buy the car. > – 1-week return for full refund, in writing. That way, you can drive > it and see all the niggles before you really are out any cash.
Note: I editted out a line here (you got it anyway); let me put it back in: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> – Suspension noise (clunks, groans, etc.) > – Fluid leaks. Pull the under-engine pan to look. > If you’re going to ignore all that, then at least just walk in with > high Blue Book, in cash, and say "take it or I walk." No BS, no > waffling – but if they don’t take it, then you’re in no worse shape > than when you walked in. Or wait ’til closer to the end of the month, > when the guys are trying to make monthly quota. > And if you can’t verify the service history, the very first stop > (before you take it home) is the mechanic for a timing belt and water > pump. (And crankshaft seal, if that model eats those.) > Spider > Thanks alot for that great breakdown! Just to let you know, I have no > intention of paying anywhere near the $5,000 asking price — the dealership > has had this car listed way too long for them to hold out for that much > money if a real buyer comes in offering less. There is no way in hell that I > would even think about purchasing this car until I give it a very rigirous > test drive and have a qualified mechanic look it over.
Very smart used car buyer. :) > When you mentioned suspension noise — is that because you know of older > model Audis having suspension trouble, or is it just a general precaution?
I would consider it a general precaution, but especially true on Audis, where the suspension has a bunch of expensive-to-replace bushings. Keep ‘em lubed! :) Spider
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Question:
I had 98 A^ with Panasonic changer after 2 months same code faults as yours new radio required to cure problem. Changer was OK cd/radio unit faulty.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 99T A6 Avant, bought new and had the dealer fit a 6 disc CD changer before I > picked it up. 1 month ago it stopped working with the following error codes > ERR01 and sometimes ERR02. They mean disc not installed correctly and > scratched or dirty disc. Neither of these codes change when discs are > reinstalled or cleaned or even different discs are installed. There is another > error code ERR03 – this means cd changer faulty, but it has never shown this as > the fault. The make of the changer is a Kenwood and the radio is the concert > model. Any one had a similar experience?? Any help appreciated!! > Thanks
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99T A6 Avant, bought new and had the dealer fit a 6 disc CD changer before I picked it up. 1 month ago it stopped working with the following error codes ERR01 and sometimes ERR02. They mean disc not installed correctly and scratched or dirty disc. Neither of these codes change when discs are reinstalled or cleaned or even different discs are installed. There is another error code ERR03 – this means cd changer faulty, but it has never shown this as the fault. The make of the changer is a Kenwood and the radio is the concert model. Any one had a similar experience?? Any help appreciated!! Thanks
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> The make of the changer is a Kenwood and the radio is the concert > model.
I’m puzzled by this. I thought that the oem CD changer used by Audi is manufactured by Matsushita (Panasonic). The unit I have here (removed from my RS6) says Matsushita on it, and it looks identical to the changer fitted in my old 2000(W) A6 Avant. —
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youll have to excuse me, i had always assumed(not sure why!!) that it was a kenwood. seem to recall being told that at the time of buting it. Have checked the invoice and it doesnt actually say anything about the make or even a model number so Im in the dark. I cant even see a name on the visible parts of the changer either.
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>99T A6 Avant, bought new and had the dealer fit a 6 disc CD changer before I >picked it up. 1 month ago it stopped working with the following error codes >ERR01 and sometimes ERR02. They mean disc not installed correctly and >scratched or dirty disc. Neither of these codes change when discs are >reinstalled or cleaned or even different discs are installed. There is another >error code ERR03 – this means cd changer faulty, but it has never shown this as >the fault. The make of the changer is a Kenwood and the radio is the concert >model. Any one had a similar experience?? Any help appreciated!! >Thanks
If your dealer fitted the same model as Audi was using, it’s a Panasonic, oem’d to Audi and used across the 4 and 6 series for at least your ‘99 A6 and my ‘00 S4 (and probably a couple of years on either side of those as well – I’m guessing late 1997 through 2002). I haven’t had any problems with mine, and don’t recall any posts here about broken changers (*fitting* changers, yes, broken ones no). If you have no luck with it, a new one should be available at Audi parts retailers for around US$300, plus 20 minutes of your time to install… cheers /daytripper ‘00 s4 6spd
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Question:
I have an ‘82 4000 4 cyl gas which is leaking fuel from around the adjustment screw on the top of what I think is the accumulator. I have tried to tighten this adjustment screw to little avail. It seems to have two settings now: let the gas pour out onto the ground and let the gas drip out onto the ground (I currently have it set on the later). The database at Autozone doesn’t know what an accumulator is (nor have any of the employees heard of an Audi before, I have to spell it ‘A-U-D-I’ each time I visit or call). I’m pretty new to car repair, but I assume that fuel is _not_ supose to pour or drip from the screw on the top of the accumulator and that all I need to do is replace it. Autozone can order a part called a fuel regulator for $111. Is this the part I need and/or can anyone give me a tip regarding where I should purchase audi parts (Athens, Ohio, USA), used and mail order parts are fine, the cheaper the better. Also, any tips on replacing the thing (if that’s what I need to do) would also be appreciated. BTW: I have stopped smoking in and around the car, and have tried to encourage others to do likewise until I get this fixed. Thanks.
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Thanks for the advice Dave. >I did find a picture of it online and it is definately the accumulator >that is leaking. >Does anyone know whether the accumulator is 100% necessary? Is it >possible that I can just bypass it? The desciptions that I have read >of the accumulator seem to credit it with two main roles: 1) to muffle >the noise of the pump and 2) to make hot starts easier by maintaining >fuel pressure for about 1/2hr after the engine has been turned off. >These seem like functions that I could possibly do without. >Any ideas?
well if you bypass it tell us how you do it and how things work out. 
does it also help maintain some even pressure with the engine running also? hmmm I will have to check on that. later, dave Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have an ‘82 4000 4 cyl gas which is leaking fuel from around the >adjustment screw on the top of what I think is the accumulator. I have >tried to tighten this adjustment screw to little avail. It seems to >have two settings now: let the gas pour out onto the ground and let >the gas drip out onto the ground (I currently have it set on the >later). The database at Autozone doesn’t know what an accumulator is >(nor have any of the employees heard of an Audi before, I have to >spell it ‘A-U-D-I’ each time I visit or call). >I’m pretty new to car repair, but I assume that fuel is _not_ supose >to pour or drip from the screw on the top of the accumulator and that >all I need to do is replace it. Autozone can order a part called a >fuel regulator for $111. Is this the part I need and/or can anyone >give me a tip regarding where I should purchase audi parts (Athens, >Ohio, USA), used and mail order parts are fine, the cheaper the >better. >Also, any tips on replacing the thing (if that’s what I need to do) >would also be appreciated. >BTW: I have stopped smoking in and around the car, and have tried to >encourage others to do likewise until I get this fixed.
If it is truly what you need: Accumulator will be under the rear of the vehicle not too far from the fuel pump and fuel filter. Where is this part you are talking about? IIRC It should have two fuel lines screwed onto it. The fuel pressure (control or warmup) regulator might be bolted to the engine block not too far from the ign. distributor and oil filter housing. 431-133-441C should be the fuel accumulator for the 4 cyl gas FI engine powered Audi 4000. Dealer or good import place that sells Bosch parts can get you one. A good used one is an option, but the years might only be from 1980-1983 in the USA. Might also be some VWs that use it too, such as Jettas or Rabbits, or early Golfs. Spray the fuel lines with PB Blaster or other similar lubricant over a period of days and pray when you take the lines off the accumulator. ;-) later, dave Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
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> well if you bypass it tell us how you do it and how things work out. > does it also help maintain some even pressure with the engine running also? > hmmm I will have to check on that. > later, > dave > Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, > when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their > shoes. Frieda Norris
Actually, the accumulator can be bypassed. As it is a sort of pressure tank for the system, you’ll find it’ll take a bit more cranking at startup without it. Once the fuel pump has the system up to pressure the accumulator is not needed. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and ‘64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
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Thanks for the advice Dave. I did find a picture of it online and it is definately the accumulator that is leaking. Does anyone know whether the accumulator is 100% necessary? Is it possible that I can just bypass it? The desciptions that I have read of the accumulator seem to credit it with two main roles: 1) to muffle the noise of the pump and 2) to make hot starts easier by maintaining fuel pressure for about 1/2hr after the engine has been turned off. These seem like functions that I could possibly do without. Any ideas?
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Question:
does anyone know of an online parts store that is located within canada so you don’t get dinged with import fees?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> use www.gmotors.com… they don’t bend you over on shipping like > gmpartsdirect does. > their per part cost may look higher, but it’s quite abit cheaper once > gmpartsdirect gets done putting the screws to you on shipping and handling. > I’ve used them several times and I’m quite satisfied. > > Does anyone know of an online part store that has good prices? Used or > new. > > I need a new drivers side, power window regulator for a new body style > 99 > > Z-71. > http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
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use www.gmotors.com… they don’t bend you over on shipping like gmpartsdirect does. their per part cost may look higher, but it’s quite abit cheaper once gmpartsdirect gets done putting the screws to you on shipping and handling. I’ve used them several times and I’m quite satisfied.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know of an online part store that has good prices? Used or > new. > I need a new drivers side, power window regulator for a new body style 99 > Z-71. > http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
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Does anyone know of an online part store that has good prices? Used or new. I need a new drivers side, power window regulator for a new body style 99 Z-71.
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> Does anyone know of an online part store that has good prices? Used or new. > I need a new drivers side, power window regulator for a new body style 99 > Z-71.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
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Is there a junkyard for audi?
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> Is there a junkyard for audi?
Sure, there’s one just south of town, on the west side of whatever that street is. — Jeff ORBS Classifieds – Free outdoor classified ads http://home.pacbell.net/orbs ORBS Escrow – Affordable safety for online buyers and sellers http://home.pacbell.net/orbs/oe-homepage.html
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I’d also recommend getting a copy of "European Car" magazine. Lots of ads in the back from salvage yards specializing in Audi (and also other european) cars. Fred Mau Orlando, Florida – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is there a junkyard for audi? >Sure, there’s one just south of town, on the west side of whatever >that street is. >– Jeff
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I’m told that there is a "used Audi parts" shop somewhere in upstate NY called Shokan or Shocan, or however it is spelled. The phone number is really simple — 1-800-ALL-AUDI. I haven’t used them yet for anything. But I did price out a new fog light switch (I want a second switch for a set of driving lights), and it was about half what the dealer wanted for a new switch. — Peter
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is there a junkyard for audi?
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Does it make a real diffrence in using Bosch parts vs other brands? What kind of plugs and wires should I use for my 85 4KS? JM
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Re: Parts Bosch or NGK would be my advice — Synchronet 3.10L-Win32 NewsLink 1.43 * Friends of Bill W – Raytown,MO – telnet://friendsofbillw.dyndns.org
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Can someone send me details of Audi parts supplier… second hand, non audi make etc… Thanks Mike
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>Can someone send me details of Audi parts supplier… second hand, non audi >make etc…
For…..Antartica?
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Here’s my list of contacts for Audi parts, enhancements: New parts & maint items via email: New parts & maint items via phone: parts via phone (no web site): 1-800-ALL-AUDI salvage parts & yards claiming to have Audi’s via email: Web Sites (new parts & performance enhancements): parts: http://www.autobahn-performance.com/ Euro Parts Distributor (NY): http://www.zstarr.com/impex/index.html parts: http://Megaparts.com/ parts: http://www.hdrogers.com/europarts.html parts: http://audiquattroparts.com/ brakes: http://www.canaminternational.com/rotors.html parts: http://euro-car-service.com/ tires & wheels: http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp performance: http://www.smartune.com/ lighting: http://www.sportscar-parts.com/light.html Audi Dealer on the web: http://www.bellaviaaudi.com/ — Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Can someone send me details of Audi parts supplier… second hand, non >audi >make etc… >Thanks >Mike
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> One screw, the new moulding comes with all the clips. Which front > door? I have one around here somewhere. >The trim is separating from the body and I would rather do the repair >myself. Does anyone have experience with this repair on an A4? Does >the repair manual provide enought information for the average person >to do this repair? >/JCC
It’s the driver side front door. The molding itself appears to be in good shape. The Audi parts folks said they have the clips. How many clips do I need and how do they attach to the body? Also, how do I remove the existing molding so I can attach the new clips? Thanks, /JCC
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Remove the screw, it slides right off. Pull. Did it get yanked off? They usually rust. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->It’s the driver side front door. The molding itself appears to be in >good shape. The Audi parts folks said they have the clips. How many >clips do I need and how do they attach to the body? Also, how do I >remove the existing molding so I can attach the new clips? >Thanks, >/JCC
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The trim is separating from the body and I would rather do the repair myself. Does anyone have experience with this repair on an A4? Does the repair manual provide enought information for the average person to do this repair? /JCC
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One screw, the new moulding comes with all the clips. Which front door? I have one around here somewhere. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The trim is separating from the body and I would rather do the repair >myself. Does anyone have experience with this repair on an A4? Does >the repair manual provide enought information for the average person >to do this repair? >/JCC
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Question:
> Adam, > One odd, or rather unexpected thing is that now my clutch slips more! I > how much torque do you have after this upgrade? Anything up to 369 ft lbs (~ > 500 NM) should not cause any increased clutch slip. > Cheers > Bernhard
Hello Bernhard, The APR chip puts my car at 366 Ft Lbs. On the Audi world forum, and the BiTurbo list several others have claimed to have this problem. Always on cars with over 50k miles. I have 60k miles. Its actually interesting. With the APR you can switch between stock and chipped modes. In Stock mode my clutch doesnt slip at all. So we know that there isnt any oil leaking.. I also had a shop check it out. They think, yes. My clutch is just starting to get weak. And the added torque is just showing the weakness of the clutch. So this is certainly something for people to be aware of when chipping a car which has higher miles. There is a kit for the RS4 clutch from AWE tuning. My understanding is that the Clutch plate is the same on the S4 and the RS4.. the big difference is the pressure plate. RS4 pressure plate just has more clamping power. Interesting note. Everyone who has mentioned a clutch slipping problem has a 2000 model year car. this could be that those cars have more miles on them, OR…. dunno. I dont have enough information to back that up. But there could be something to it. Good luck, thanks for he comments. Adam
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Hi, No, I havent done anything else, other than Chip and diverter valves. When my suspension needs replacing, I will put something other than stock, but I dont plan on doing anything to the brakes other than maybe mintex brake pads. I may also do something to the TBB, and maybe some exhaust upgrades. Gotta think about the clutch soon tho. Definitely gonna be an RS4 clutch. I am finding that a lot of people who chip their S4’s find they have clutch slipping in cars with over 50k miles. More on that in my next post. Good luck with your S4!!! -Adam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Adam, > Thanks for the info. I just picked up my 2000 S4 a couple of weeks > ago. I was thinking of getting a chip, but then my buddy convinced me > to autocross it. They don’t allow chips in the stock class, and the > Street Prepared class get kind of silly (I’m not pulling out my > seats…). > Have you done anything to the suspension or brakes? > Elroy >Hello all, >Just thought you all might be interested in my latest upgrade, and how I >got it. My car is a 2000 S4, with an APR chip… Also of interest (you >will see why latter) my clutch is still slipping a little. Will do that >in a few months when it gets a little worse… >Anyhow >I convinced my shop that they should change my DV’s and that they should >use my after market warranty as much as possible. No problem they >said… I wanted to go with the Bosch 100 sport DV. I have heard good >things, and it was close enough to the real thing, that I figured my >warranty wouldnt know the diff. they didnt… They paid, and now I have >2 new Bosche 100 sports… sorta for free. >Definitely better. Turbo seems to spool up faster, or at least I feel >the power faster. The car seems more responsive, more snappy. A friend >was in the car today and he said.. WOW.. that almost feels like the >difference between the APR and the GIAC Xchip.. Dunno about that.. but >it was an interesting response. >These DV’s are $50 a piece, vs $150 for some of the others out there. >The DV;s that were replaced were the original Audi part ending in 108. >Very happy now. >One odd, or rather unexpected thing is that now my clutch slips more! I >assume this means that these new DVs are holding the boost pressure >better? There is definitely more power going to the clutch. >I do plan on using the RS4 clutch when I do the change, probably in the >summer. >Thanks all.. >Adam
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Adam, > One odd, or rather unexpected thing is that now my clutch slips more! I
how much torque do you have after this upgrade? Anything up to 369 ft lbs (~ 500 NM) should not cause any increased clutch slip. Cheers Bernhard
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Adam, Thanks for the info. I just picked up my 2000 S4 a couple of weeks ago. I was thinking of getting a chip, but then my buddy convinced me to autocross it. They don’t allow chips in the stock class, and the Street Prepared class get kind of silly (I’m not pulling out my seats…). Have you done anything to the suspension or brakes? Elroy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hello all, >Just thought you all might be interested in my latest upgrade, and how I >got it. My car is a 2000 S4, with an APR chip… Also of interest (you >will see why latter) my clutch is still slipping a little. Will do that >in a few months when it gets a little worse… >Anyhow >I convinced my shop that they should change my DV’s and that they should >use my after market warranty as much as possible. No problem they >said… I wanted to go with the Bosch 100 sport DV. I have heard good >things, and it was close enough to the real thing, that I figured my >warranty wouldnt know the diff. they didnt… They paid, and now I have >2 new Bosche 100 sports… sorta for free. >Definitely better. Turbo seems to spool up faster, or at least I feel >the power faster. The car seems more responsive, more snappy. A friend >was in the car today and he said.. WOW.. that almost feels like the >difference between the APR and the GIAC Xchip.. Dunno about that.. but >it was an interesting response. >These DV’s are $50 a piece, vs $150 for some of the others out there. >The DV;s that were replaced were the original Audi part ending in 108. >Very happy now. >One odd, or rather unexpected thing is that now my clutch slips more! I >assume this means that these new DVs are holding the boost pressure >better? There is definitely more power going to the clutch. >I do plan on using the RS4 clutch when I do the change, probably in the >summer. >Thanks all.. >Adam
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Hello all, Just thought you all might be interested in my latest upgrade, and how I got it. My car is a 2000 S4, with an APR chip… Also of interest (you will see why latter) my clutch is still slipping a little. Will do that in a few months when it gets a little worse… Anyhow I convinced my shop that they should change my DV’s and that they should use my after market warranty as much as possible. No problem they said… I wanted to go with the Bosch 100 sport DV. I have heard good things, and it was close enough to the real thing, that I figured my warranty wouldnt know the diff. they didnt… They paid, and now I have 2 new Bosche 100 sports… sorta for free. Definitely better. Turbo seems to spool up faster, or at least I feel the power faster. The car seems more responsive, more snappy. A friend was in the car today and he said.. WOW.. that almost feels like the difference between the APR and the GIAC Xchip.. Dunno about that.. but it was an interesting response. These DV’s are $50 a piece, vs $150 for some of the others out there. The DV;s that were replaced were the original Audi part ending in 108. Very happy now. One odd, or rather unexpected thing is that now my clutch slips more! I assume this means that these new DVs are holding the boost pressure better? There is definitely more power going to the clutch. I do plan on using the RS4 clutch when I do the change, probably in the summer. Thanks all.. Adam